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2005+ Ford Mustang v6 4.0L Tech Technical discussion about the 2005+ Ford Mustang 4.0L v6

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Old 07-31-2017, 08:15 AM   #21
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Oh, Ok. That sounds pretty nice. If I did that, would it be wise to install a higher flowing oil pump to make up for the increase in oil volume being pushed through the system?
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Old 07-31-2017, 09:03 AM   #22
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Sorry, I should have clarified it more. What I meant by the oil being a limiting factor and the Transmission Fluid as well for an automatic, was the fluids heating up at a much quicker rate.
Fluids heating up quickly is a good thing. Hotter fluid flows better through small passages and therefore can do its job better overall. Wear occurs at start up when fluids are molasses and occurs again when temps go over a threshold. More oil will take longer to warm up but can still go over its limits without external cooling.
The amount of extra oil it takes to circulate through an oil cooler is probably negligible, but at least you will get some heat dissipation through the cooler.
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Old 07-31-2017, 09:36 AM   #23
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Oh, Ok. That sounds pretty nice. If I did that, would it be wise to install a higher flowing oil pump to make up for the increase in oil volume being pushed through the system?
It would probably only take a few extra minutes to warm the oil. If you think of it like water running through a hose, you just made the hose longer and filled it with more water.

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Fluids heating up quickly is a good thing. Hotter fluid flows better through small passages and therefore can do its job better overall. Wear occurs at start up when fluids are molasses and occurs again when temps go over a threshold. More oil will take longer to warm up but can still go over its limits without external cooling.
The amount of extra oil it takes to circulate through an oil cooler is probably negligible, but at least you will get some heat dissipation through the cooler.
Oil is formulated to protect during warm up. As long as you don't jump into a totally cold car and start hammering on it (which you shouldn't do anyway) I don't see a cause to worry.
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Old 07-31-2017, 10:52 AM   #24
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It would probably only take a few extra minutes to warm the oil. If you think of it like water running through a hose, you just made the hose longer and filled it with more water.



Oil is formulated to protect during warm up. As long as you don't jump into a totally cold car and start hammering on it (which you shouldn't do anyway) I don't see a cause to worry.
I just meam the increase in the amount of oil now running through the system. If I effectively am able to increase the amount of oil flowing, would it be wise to get a higher flowing oil pump?
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Old 07-31-2017, 10:55 AM   #25
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Oil is formulated to protect during warm up. As long as you don't jump into a totally cold car and start hammering on it (which you shouldn't do anyway) I don't see a cause to worry.
I was saying that mainly to point out that extra capacity isn't what cools the fluid, it's the external cooler that does the cooling.
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:14 AM   #26
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I was saying that mainly to point out that extra capacity isn't what cools the fluid, it's the external cooler that does the cooling.
Agreed. An oil cooler would be a given.
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:46 AM   #27
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Having two filters wouldn't impede the flow of oil? At least not too much, right?
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:23 PM   #28
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Never heard of that being an issue. But who knows.
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Old 07-31-2017, 01:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benwhite911 View Post
I just meam the increase in the amount of oil now running through the system. If I effectively am able to increase the amount of oil flowing, would it be wise to get a higher flowing oil pump?
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Having two filters wouldn't impede the flow of oil? At least not too much, right?
Good questions. One way to find out is to hook up a pressure gauge and measure the before/after difference, if any. If flow is restricted pressure would have to go up. I am getting in over my head though so I will bow out here.
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:15 AM   #30
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I highly doubt a higher flowing oil pump is necessary. You'r not flowing more oil, your just sending the oil you are flowing to an oil cooler first. As long as line size is adequate you are fine.

Also I would worry about a better cooler before trying to increase capacity with multiple or oversized filters. Coolers cool, filters filter. Not letting your coolant overheat will also keep oil temps under control BTW.

The amount of heat 1 quart of oil can absorb is insignificant when compared to how much heat the engine gives off. The temp of your oil is going to hit equilibrium at basically the same time with 6 or 7 quarts as it did with 5. Especially since your car will likely be idling for a little while before it is ran hard.

Newer engines have 6 or more quarts because we have VCT solenoids, 4 cams, 32 lifters, 4 chains, counter shafts, and other places like that oil has to go that old engines did not have. When newer cars come from the factory with oil coolers its typically because they expect the car to do something like run a road course for 20 laps, tow up a mountain, or mud bog.

A 12 second drag race does not have this need. Hence why I said just do the turbo first then after check your temps and see if you have the need.


I think we are analyzing the wrong parts of this build.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:24 PM   #31
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When I was in high school I bought a 2005 4.0 mustang. Never had the money to afford a 4.6 especially because of insurance at my age so I eventually put a turbo kit on it.

It was a custom made kit to save money so was by no means perfect since I was only 18 and all my welding knowledge came from my grandfather who welds parts for tractors, not race cars. Anyways, I did a lot of research on the powerhouse turbo kit and modeled my kit after it.

It was a blast to drive and made about 375whp on 14psi, and that was with the bottom end being completely stock. Sure I was pushing the limits and even took it to 15psi due to accidental boost spikes but it held like a champ. However due to a fuel pump dropping pressure at the track one night I popped 2 of the pistons. Luckily you can pick up one of these motors for about $600-800 if you search lkq wrecking yards.

Here are some things to consider if you do go the turbo route, if you have more questions I may have more answers it has just been over 8 years since I did this build and memory is a little fuzzy.

-Oiling system for this car is fine to handle a turbo as is, all I did to oil the turbo was run a line from the sending unit with a nitrous jet in the end to reduce oil pressure going into the turbo. For the drain I drilled and tapped a hole just above the oil pan and installed a fitting.

-Fuel system you will need the blue 47lb ford racing injectors and a gt500 fuel pump. The pump isn't really necessary but cheap insurance that your stock one won't give out like mine did.

-The stock bottom end is very safe at 12psi, I ran 14 for over 40k miles after I put my new motor in with no problems. But 12 is safer and is what I would suggest.
However the stock valve springs will start to float at only 9psi and over 5k rpm. I installed valve springs out of a 350z to solve this problem.
After much research it is not worth building the 4.0 to handle more boost than what it can stock, the block itself is fragile and will not handle whatever you can throw at the forged rotating assembly you put in it.

-If you have a manual trans you will grenade it, the t-5 was not intended to handle much more than stock. If you have the 5r55s auto them it will handle the power well with no modifications but be prepared to put a shift kit in it after 50k miles or so. When I sold my car it was starting to slip a little. But I put it through hell lol

I hope this answered some of your concerns, and I would continue to ramble on but this wall of text has gone on long enough haha
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:42 AM   #32
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If you modeled yours after the powerhouse turbo kit, you fabbed your own stuff obviously, but what turbo did you go with?
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Old 08-04-2017, 09:57 AM   #33
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What transmission options are available for the 4.0? Anything other than the T5 and the 5r55?
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:01 AM   #34
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What transmission options are available for the 4.0? Anything other than the T5 and the 5r55?[/QUOTE]

I imagine we could use one of the TCI options. As long and the bellhousing is changed.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:59 AM   #35
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It does not share the modular bolt pattern so a bunch of options are out unless you can get an adapter plate and a flywheel/flexplate fabbed up. By time you do all that you might as well just get the 5r55 built and call it a day.

A quick google pull for me only found benchracers
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:20 PM   #36
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Quote:
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If you modeled yours after the powerhouse turbo kit, you fabbed your own stuff obviously, but what turbo did you go with?
I know I used a Garrett t3/t4 and I'm thinking it was a 60-1 trim series.

As far as different transmission options there is a kit out there somewhere to put a tr3650 in place of the t-5 but I don't know if it's still out there. And the 5r55s is really the only option for autos unless you want to spend a lot of cash on swapping.
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Old 08-04-2017, 03:16 PM   #37
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Built 5r55s have lived in 11 second cars though, so unless you plan on pushing that 4.0 faster than 11s you'r probably fine.

I totally forgot the T-5 was used for years in the fox body and you can get those built also.
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:34 PM   #38
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So I talked to mrt performance about a turbo kit for my car and supersixmotorsports for racing comp cams for my 4.0 v6 09 mustang and so far mrt has a complete turbo kit with a percision turbo I think it was 58mm or 60mm comes with everything you need including already fabricated turbo intake manifold for 3200 and it's front mount they also have a complete twin turbo kit rear mount sts system as well for 12000 to much money for me so I am going front mount. I think racing comp cams from supersixmotorsports costs 400 to 600 dollars.

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Old 09-27-2017, 02:53 PM   #39
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I've noticed that most Ford engine's survive up to about twice the rated power production before problems start to manifest. So it would seem that Ford has about a 50% safety/longevity factor built in.

If you put 8psi (+ roughly 50%) into a 4.0 you would be around 320hp. GT territory for the same vintage car. Properly tuned this would likely last a long time if not abused.
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Old 09-27-2017, 03:24 PM   #40
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You could use 12 psi max and be safe on a stock 4.0 I would run 10 psi. A 4.0 is made with a cast iron block it can handle some pressure and heat. They are reliable engines it's sad they did not come with more performance the down fall is the engine is heavy compared to any of the new mustang but from 05 to 2010 Ford has sold the most mustangs compared to the new mustangs. Originally I wanted a roots style supercharger but the costs is cheaper going turbo for me.

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