BMR Watts Link - Teaser

claudermilk

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Posts
1,840
Reaction score
1
Location
SoCal
We agree! :boobies:
Well, I don't want to get too many people excited - but pricing was discussed in our meeting. Initially, we wanted to stay around $600....then, we wanted $500....now we are even talking closer to $400.

Honestly, I will be happy with $500. I think when we do the costing analysis, it will be a little higher than boss man is anticipating (owner of BMR)

:omfg::thud: Even the highest price point is excellent.

Do. Want.

Fortunately, I'm looking at a Watts link more towards the end of this year at the soonest. I think I have another option to look at when the time comes. I can't wait to see more & hear how this one works out.
 

GoneFord

forum member
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Posts
1,151
Reaction score
1
Location
Yorktown VA
And just when I thought I'd exhausted the BMR catalogue... oh well... that'll be a fantastic addition.
 

DRock

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Posts
2,098
Reaction score
2
IM excited!

Looks killer over there guys!
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,211
Reaction score
1,093
How the heck are you going to make it work with the oem differential cover..or anybody else's differential cover ???

There appears to be 2 way's of doing these watts links. The steeda + fays use massive axle clamps... + the..."ladder". The sole purpose of the "ladder" is to articulate the propeller.

The WL uses no ladder....and no axle clamps. The propeller articulates on the "spider"..which is bolted to the WL supplied super thick differential cover..and ditto with the griggs + cortex.

IMO....axle clamps are a pita.

Steeda announced yet another way to adjust the RC. It's a panhard bar that has adjustable up/down mounts at BOTH ends of the PHB. Then the PHB can be adjusted to be dead level if you want. On a PHB setup, the pass side is bolted to the body. Driver's side is bolted to the axle. If the car is lowered 1", the PHB will also be 1" lower at the pass side..... bringing the PHB slightly closer to being more level to the ground.

With the steeda setup, you can now make the PHB any angle you want. You can also make the PHB parallel to the ground...and then raise / lower it via the track at each end. However, even with the new steeda device... the axle will still shift left / right..when the suspension goes up /down..but no where near as much as oem PHB.

My WL watts link works superb.... but is a very pricey item.

For folks who plan on using a watts link that articulates on the supplied new differential cover..... you may want to do any rear gear change, + an Eaton tru-trac / Torsen differential....all at the same time..and kill 3 birds at once.

I had the WL watts link + eaton tru-trac installed on the same day. The results are superb. The rear end finally feels.."planted". This new BMR watts link looks stunning..built like a tank.

BTW kelly. 6061-T6 aluminum (40 ksi yield strength) is now available in a 6061-T8 format... ( at least for tubing). Same 6061 alloy, but the T8 uses a modified form of the.."heat treated and artifically aged" heat treating process. The T8 version is now a full 50 ksi yield strength. The T8 is now a full 25% stronger yield strength than the T6 version. (tensile strength is also much improved). Dunno if 6061-T8 is available in thick sheets etc. I have only seen it in tubing format.

Another option is to use 7075 aluminum...which I believe is 70 ksi yield strength...but 7075 is expensive stuff...priced the same or higher as 4130 chromoly steel.

87 ksi DOM would be another option. Making the 6061-T6/T8 thicker is yet another option. Heat treated 100-120 ksi 4130 chromoly is another option.

I wouldn't get too wound up about the total weight of the assy. The car weighs 3800 lbs as is. You want a final assy that is built to last a long time.....and handle all sorts of abuse.

Jimbo
 
Last edited:

o2sys

forum member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Posts
4,367
Reaction score
19
Location
NY/NJ
Look at griggs spyder watts links... Uses oem diff covers.

posted via Tapatalk
 

BMR Tech

Traction Vendor
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Posts
4,863
Reaction score
9
Location
Tampa, FL
How the heck are you going to make it work with the oem differential cover..or anybody else's differential cover ???

There appears to be 2 way's of doing these watts links. The steeda + fays use massive axle clamps... + the..."ladder". The sole purpose of the "ladder" is to articulate the propeller.

The WL uses no ladder....and no axle clamps. The propeller articulates on the "spider"..which is bolted to the WL supplied super thick differential cover..and ditto with the griggs + cortex.

IMO....axle clamps are a pita.

Steeda announced yet another way to adjust the RC. It's a panhard bar that has adjustable up/down mounts at BOTH ends of the PHB. Then the PHB can be adjusted to be dead level if you want. On a PHB setup, the pass side is bolted to the body. Driver's side is bolted to the axle. If the car is lowered 1", the PHB will also be 1" lower at the pass side..... bringing the PHB slightly closer to being more level to the ground.

With the steeda setup, you can now make the PHB any angle you want. You can also make the PHB parallel to the ground...and then raise / lower it via the track at each end. However, even with the new steeda device... the axle will still shift left / right..when the suspension goes up /down..but no where near as much as oem PHB.

My WL watts link works superb.... but is a very pricey item.

For folks who plan on using a watts link that articulates on the supplied new differential cover..... you may want to do any rear gear change, + an Eaton tru-trac / Torsen differential....all at the same time..and kill 3 birds at once.

I had the WL watts link + eaton tru-trac installed on the same day. The results are superb. The rear end finally feels.."planted". This new BMR watts link looks stunning..built like a tank.

BTW kelly. 6061-T6 aluminum (40 ksi yield strength) is now available in a 6061-T8 format... ( at least for tubing). Same 6061 alloy, but the T8 uses a modified form of the.."heat treated and artifically aged" heat treating process. The T8 version is now a full 50 ksi yield strength. The T8 is now a full 25% stronger yield strength than the T6 version. (tensile strength is also much improved). Dunno if 6061-T8 is available in thick sheets etc. I have only seen it in tubing format.

Another option is to use 7075 aluminum...which I believe is 70 ksi yield strength...but 7075 is expensive stuff...priced the same or higher as 4130 chromoly steel.

87 ksi DOM would be another option. Making the 6061-T6/T8 thicker is yet another option. Heat treated 100-120 ksi 4130 chromoly is another option.

I wouldn't get too wound up about the total weight of the assy. The car weighs 3800 lbs as is. You want a final assy that is built to last a long time.....and handle all sorts of abuse.

Jimbo

The same way we do on this kit.

TAS001_image2_large.jpg

Of course, this S197 is MUCH less bulky. The kit above is way overkill....but the Pro Touring guys are loving it.

As for 7075, we have been using that for quite some time in certain application - and have recently started using it in more apps.

This propeller is going to be 6061. Way more than enough, to handle what anyone can throw at it - due to the excellent design.
 

GrnBullitt08

Dale Jr
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Posts
15,081
Reaction score
199
Location
Northwest Indiana
The same way we do on this kit.

TAS001_image2_large.jpg

Of course, this S197 is MUCH less bulky. The kit above is way overkill....but the Pro Touring guys are loving it.

As for 7075, we have been using that for quite some time in certain application - and have recently started using it in more apps.

This propeller is going to be 6061. Way more than enough, to handle what anyone can throw at it - due to the excellent design.

I want that^
 

joeymustang

forum member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Posts
564
Reaction score
1
Location
Houston, TX
oh I'm so glad I haven't decided on my watts link...yet

what is the ETA for this thing? I'm thinking of buying end of year.
 

BMR Tech

Traction Vendor
Official Vendor
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Posts
4,863
Reaction score
9
Location
Tampa, FL
It should definitely be shipping by the end of the year.

It's very hard to say right now, as we are working on quite a few new parts at this time.

The new sway bars, and our new line of lowering springs will likely be available before the watts. We'll see, though.
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
1
Torque arm too?

We keep getting the "soon" but I fully suspect a raging Fair to come in here and chide you for ever suggesting such a dagnabbited thing as a Torque Arm on the S197 chassis. :)
 

zeroescape

forum member
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Posts
163
Reaction score
0
However, even with the new steeda device... the axle will still shift left / right..when the suspension goes up /down..but no where near as much as oem PHB.



I wouldn't get too wound up about the total weight of the assy. The car weighs 3800 lbs as is. You want a final assy that is built to last a long time.....and handle all sorts of abuse.

I think weight is a major issue. The only real reason for a watts link is roll center adjustment. A 42" panhard bar will only see 0.1" inch in lateral travel at 3" suspension travel in either direction. C-clips in the rearend will walk more than this.

I have a base GT in street trim under 3400 lbs (no driver) without removing the backseat, 1pc driveshaft, or replacing those stock mufflers. The car is capable of shedding some weight im not eager to put any back on.

I havent driven a watts equiped car so maybe the difference would persuade me.
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
1
I think weight is a major issue. The only real reason for a watts link is roll center adjustment. A 42" panhard bar will only see 0.1" inch in lateral travel at 3" suspension travel in either direction. C-clips in the rearend will walk more than this.

I have a base GT in street trim under 3400 lbs (no driver) without removing the backseat, 1pc driveshaft, or replacing those stock mufflers. The car is capable of shedding some weight im not eager to put any back on.

I havent driven a watts equiped car so maybe the difference would persuade me.

There is a lot more to a watts link than roll center adjustment. A PHB with rod ends will still plant the driver side tire in right hand turns and attempt to lift it in left hand turns which creates a handling bias to right hand turns. This makes the car noticeably less stable in quick transitions.

Also the rear axle is 300lbs.. a tenth inch laterally at the accelerations the axle sees over bumps isnt insignificant.
 

zeroescape

forum member
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Posts
163
Reaction score
0
There is a lot more to a watts link than roll center adjustment. A PHB with rod ends will still plant the driver side tire in right hand turns and attempt to lift it in left hand turns which creates a handling bias to right hand turns. This makes the car noticeably less stable in quick transitions.

Also the rear axle is 300lbs.. a tenth inch laterally at the accelerations the axle sees over bumps isnt insignificant.

Good points.

Wont it only pickup the RR in LH turns if your braking simultaneously (raking the rear) puts the chassis panhard pickup higher than axle?
 

NoTicket

forum member
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Posts
303
Reaction score
0
Come on guys, there are about 4 other threads in this subforum with about 10-20 pages covering the watts vs phb discussion in the last 4 months. Let's leave this thread alone.
 

zeroescape

forum member
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Posts
163
Reaction score
0
Come on guys, there are about 4 other threads in this subforum with about 10-20 pages covering the watts vs phb discussion in the last 4 months. Let's leave this thread alone.

Should i leave room for more Oogling and AH'ing?
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top