So what's the RPM ceiling for an 2011 coyote with oil pump gears and boost??

JEWC_Motorsports

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It would help.....without a doubt. I love mine. My best 60ft NA is a 1.68
 

skaarlaj

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I wanted to start with that but you're fighting his idea of being at some imaginary traction limit
It sounds like you must be the drag-strip / traction master, so what's your 60' times, weight, power, gears, trans?? Just wondering who I'm considering taking advice from here is all. You already pretty much told me not to do what Kelly at BMR told me to do.
 

RocketcarX

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It sounds like you must be the drag-strip / traction master, so what's your 60' times, weight, power, gears, trans?? Just wondering who I'm considering taking advice from here is all. You already pretty much told me not to do what Kelly at BMR told me to do.

Kelly advised changing the gear ratio instead of making foundation grade suspension changes like drag springs and or lower control arms? Seems legit.
I'm nobody, just a guy that likes to build cars for a living.
I've told you what I have, trans, gears, all of that.
 

skaarlaj

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Kelly advised changing the gear ratio instead of making foundation grade suspension changes like drag springs and or lower control arms? Seems legit.
I'm nobody, just a guy that likes to build cars for a living.
I've told you what I have, trans, gears, all of that.
I don't recall what you have, or what your car is capable of, Sorry. I've seen quite a few people at the track with aftermarket control arms, lowering springs, hell I've upgraded my old 04 Cobra with all that aftermarket spherical ended garbage, and although it did "ok" it's absolutely no match for my Auto Coyote car, although a good portion of that is due to the stalled auto vs the 2.66:1 1st geared T56.

I know you said dead hooking is bad and slow, but when my car doesn't dead hook it usually slows to a low-mid 1.7 60'. Again, what should my should I be 60' numbers be looking like with my car? Please remember, I race in 8500+' air.

I also think it's strange you've never once asked about what tires I'm on, or if my track is prepped very good? Again, I don't mind spending money, I just don't like wasting it on parts that don't work, or that do very little and possibly make the car feel like a pos on the road.

I'm also sorry for being skeptical with you on this, but listening to people on the internet just hasn't really done much for me. It's just a little funny how everyone seems so smart on the internet.
 
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RocketcarX

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I don't recall what you have, or what your car is capable of, Sorry. I've seen quite a few people at the track with aftermarket control arms, lowering springs, hell I've upgraded my old 04 Cobra with all that aftermarket spherical ended garbage, and although it did "ok" it's absolutely no match for my Auto Coyote car, although a good portion of that is due to the stalled auto vs the 2.66:1 1st geared T56.

I know you said dead hooking is bad and slow, but when my car doesn't dead hook it usually slows to a low-mid 1.7 60'. Again, what should my should I be 60' numbers be looking like with my car? Please remember, I race in 8500+' air.

I also think it's strange you've never once asked about what tires I'm on, or if my track is prepped very good? Again, I don't mind spending money, I just don't like wasting it on parts that don't work, or that do very little and possibly make the car feel like a pos on the road.

I'm also sorry for being skeptical with you on this, but listening to people on the internet just hasn't really done much for me. It's just a little funny how everyone seems so smart on the internet.

I'm giving you a point of advice that is universal, the springs are the largest single traction change you can make. Beyond that you have laid out your set up in more than 1 thread.
 

skaarlaj

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For 640 dollars, I can buy adjustable upper, and lower control arms. relocation brackets, and possibly just buy the rear drag springs from BMR, at that point with proper adjustments, where should I expect my 60' times to be. Just fyi, if I do all this crap, and spend this money, and it doesn't get me solidly into the 1.5's on nearly every run, that will suck bad, and again I'll be wishing I wasn't listening to the internet experts...
 
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RocketcarX

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For 640 dollars, I can buy adjustable upper, and lower control arms. relocation brackets, and possibly just buy the rear drag springs from BMR, at that point with proper adjustments, where should I expect my 60' times to be. Just fyi, if I do all this crap, and spend this money, and it doesn't get me solidly into the 1.5's on nearly every run, that will suck bad, and again I'll be wishing I wasn't listening to the internet experts...

Why don't you just start with the springs (the entire set) and report back instead of completely modifying my advice?
 
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skaarlaj

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Why don't you just start with the springs (the entire set) and report back instead of completely modifying my advice?
I've asked BMR and am waiting to hear back and see what they think.
 

skaarlaj

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By looking at my logs, it usually goes into 2nd at about 6900rpms, I had it going into 2nd at 7100 but would sometimes surpass that and hit the limiter, so we went down there a bit.

3rd usually come in at around 72-7300ish, my converter sometimes is locked towards the top of second, but sometimes not. The car feels / sounds faster when the converter doesn't lock at all, because the 2-3 shift is such a big ratio jump that the engine usually falls to about 4700 on the upshift, but if for whatever reason the converter decides not to lock up the car keeps the revs up better and stays in the engine's power-band alot better.

Sorry for the long answer here, but it's something that has really caused me some thinking to try and make this car faster, hahaha.
 
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slackinoff

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Well, since I already have the expensive shocks and a few other bits, it probably won't be long before I have every possible aftermarket piece under there, and running maybe 3 tenths quicker 60' than stock, lol.
3 tenths in the 60 for your car/situation would be a damn good imorovement.
 

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