Detroit rocker install

So I recently bought a set of the Detroit rockers to add to my 2200SL setup. The instructions that came with the cams states that you need to use comp cams valve springs to have any warranty on the cams however this is a set of NSR cams. Anybody know if there is any truth to this? I called Comp and they told me that it was a generic instruction page for all the cams they sell. But I don't want to put a cam in my car with no warranty.

It also states that you have to remove certain valve springs during the break in period and run an additive then change the oil. My installer has put many roller cams in many mustangs and has never done a specific break in period as described.

I called brenspeed and they said just put them in and go, just want to make sure I'm not gonna have problems down the road by not using comp springs and retainers on a NSR cam setup.

Thanks for any input in advanced!

""It also states that you have to remove certain valve springs during the break in period""

I hope that the destructions don't actually say that .. I'm certain the additive they refer to is for flat tappet cams.

For the Hot Rod 3v cam ,,slather some lube on the lobes, install the cams, and run em' ...

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I ran Detroit Rocker Cams in the 05GT. They are sold as an NSR application. The stock springs were used. Had no issues with that end of the setup. HOWEVER - Pay close attention to the cam phaser installation procedure. There is a torque to yield requirement on the one time use only banjo bolts that attach them to their respective cam after you set the initial bolt torque specification. It's all in the Ford tech manual.

Yes the instructions actually say this!!
Here is the link to the PDF instructions. The very first italicized words on page one talk about the warranty part I mentioned and on page 4, under break in procedure, it states to remove an inner valve spring!! My installer has worked for Ford for years and he said he's never seen instructions on a roller cam like this.

I also bought new phaser bolts but no phaser limiters as Brenspeed said they were not needed for this cam.

Here is the web address in case the link did not work above

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf


Thank you guys for the quick reply!

Trying to read and reply using a mobile device, my apologies if I post the same thing twice.
But yes! The instructions state all of that!

Page one talks about the warranty or lack there of...
And page 4 states the break in period and to remove one of the inner valve springs during the break in.

Here is a link to the PDF

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

Yeah...whatever it is ft-lbs...and then 1/4 turn I think? That last 1/4 turn is a bitch to get too.

ghunt81 said:

Yeah...whatever it is ft-lbs...and then 1/4 turn I think? That last 1/4 turn is a bitch to get too.

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Can't remember the ft/lb spec but I do remember additional 90 degrees TTY. You are correct.

I'm running Detroit Rockers and I removed the Muther Thumpers and installed the Detroit Rockers then cranked the car and never looked back. No issues so far. I have limiters from the Thumpers that I didn't take out. Just put them in and go, you are over thinking it.

Yeah those instructions talk about hydralic and flat tappet cams. Such in a ohv config. Our ohc config doesn't abide by those.
Ghunt you should see head bolts. Like 25ft/lb, 90°, 90°
That last 90 is a total bitch

I'm old school and I just soak my cams in oil overnight before installation, no assembly lube.

If it says inner valve spring it's referring to dual springs. The inner spring is removed to lighten the load against the cam for break in. Then it's put back in for normal operation.

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Thank you for the replies! I will lube them up and get them installed.

I put a little squirt of assembly lube on the lobes and journals as I was installing the cams, but that's it...didn't do anything else special.

Install was a breeze and the car runs WAY better with the blower/cam combo rather than just the blower. Not as jerky as it was with just the blower.
I did a data log after I put about an hours worth of Drive time on the car and the idle never dropped below 848. The tune has the neutral and Drive idle set at 740. I contacted brenspeed to see if I could drop it any lower because the car doesn't have much of a lope at all. Any input on what I should set the idle to. (It's a stick car)

06StangGT said:

Install was a breeze and the car runs WAY better with the blower/cam combo rather than just the blower. Not as jerky as it was with just the blower.
I did a data log after I put about an hours worth of Drive time on the car and the idle never dropped below 848. The tune has the neutral and Drive idle set at 740. I contacted brenspeed to see if I could drop it any lower because the car doesn't have much of a lope at all. Any input on what I should set the idle to. (It's a stick car)

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With the blower you don't want any lope, or as little as possible. That is just you bleeding off power. Why didn't you get an actual blower/turbo cam? Performance gains would have been much better with a wider LSA.

07 Boss said:

With the blower you don't want any lope, or as little as possible. That is just you bleeding off power. Why didn't you get an actual blower/turbo cam? Performance gains would have been much better with a wider LSA.

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Brenspeed specifically stated with a centri blower I wanted the N/A grind. They said the blower grind was more for the twin screw / roots style blowers
*at least with the Detroit rockers

06StangGT said:

Brenspeed specifically stated with a centri blower I wanted the N/A grind. They said the blower grind was more for the twin screw / roots style blowers
*at least with the Detroit rockers

Click to expand...

That just seems odd. Do you have the specs for that cam? Generally when running boost you need a longer exhaust duration relative to an NA cam. Also a wider LSA as now you have pressure pushing air into the cylinder as opposed to drawing it in.

Attached should be the specs I received with the cam.

This is the link to the video on Brenspeed's YouTube channel. Right around the 1:00 mark he explains it.

I appreciate your input on all of this.

Brenspeed told me the same thing. I wanted blower cams with my Procharger but they said that I shouldn't use them and that I should go with the N/A cams. I like them and they are way better than the Muther Thumpers that were in it when I got the car. I also feel better knowing that if I decide to remove the Procharger that the cams will still be good to stay in. I just didn't think that they would lower my boost pressure as much as they have. With all the reading I have done, with my 3.70" pulley it should be getting close to 12psi on a stock motor with stock exhaust. With my set up I am getting 8psi of boost at 6000 RPM. I have not dynoed it so I don't know what I am putting to the ground but it is real stout and a lot of fun to drive. The sound of the Detroit Rockers with my exhaust is AWESOME!!

06JET said:

With all the reading I have done, with my 3.70" pulley it should be getting close to 12psi on a stock motor with stock exhaust. With my set up I am getting 8psi of boost at 6000 RPM. I have not dynoed it so I don't know what I am putting to the ground

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I'll hazard a guess:

510rwhp @ 8psi & 610rwhp @ 12psi

Dino Dino Bambino said:

I'll hazard a guess:

510rwhp @ 8psi & 610rwhp @ 12psi

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510rwhp sounds great but it scares the crap out of me with the stock bottom end. My tuner estimated that I was still under 450rwtq so I was safe on the stock bottom end. I need to get it on the dyno and finish the tuning process.