Looking for engine builder

raredesign

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:helpme: Just got off the phone with my local engine builder is quite renown in NY, and he decided he wasn't going to do it because he is getting out of boosted applications completely! Apparently too many tuners are blowing them and blaming him. That's a shame.

I had only budgeted for local (no shipping), and he was going to torque plate bore and hone, and balance and assemble for $1000. So with the internals, etc, would have been around $4000 to build my block. I would like to also send them the cams and parts I have so I can ship a complete motor and receive it drop-in ready.

I'm in Rochester, NY, so if anyone knows of a good builder that won't force me to go on hold again to save up, please post away.

Planned on building 9:1 for 23psi with ARP studs, etc.
 

stkjock

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how about L&M in Hatboro PA? It's a 5 hour drive or so for you.

not sure what they would charge, but they build solid stuff
 

stkjock

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I had only budgeted for local (no shipping), and he was going to torque plate bore and hone, and balance and assemble for $1000. So with the internals, etc, would have been around $4000 to build my block. I would like to also send them the cams and parts I have so I can ship a complete motor and receive it drop-in ready.

Call Tim at MPR in Boynton Beach Florida. Ships in and out every day.

561-588-0188


:whistle1:
 

raredesign

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Thank you both for your quick responses. If it comes down to having to ship, then I'll swallow that pill.
 

raredesign

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I spoke with Denise, and Mike will be back on Friday, so I also sent him an email.

There is another builder I just learned of in Buffalo called Carlson Racing and a bunch on the New York Mustangs Facebook group recommend him.

He's a nice guy, and after chatting a bit he passed along some savings to me, which would bring it all to $5k, including internals, gaskets, assembly, etc.

The only "problem" aside from price difference, is he uses Eagle cranks. From what I have read around here, their to be avoided like MMR. I had planned on using Scat, so opinions?
 

702GT

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The only "problem" aside from price difference, is he uses Eagle cranks. From what I have read around here, their to be avoided like MMR. I had planned on using Scat, so opinions?

I spoke with a rep from Eagle while at SEMA a several years ago. My biggest concern was quality control, as at the time Eagle was well known to produce forged parts out of China. Years later, low and behold Manley is producing forged parts out of China. As well as Sears signature tool brand, Craftsman.

It's well known the stock cranks have been put through the ringer on many builds, and I've yet to read of a stock crank failure. Personally, if I was looking for a "better" crank, I would be looking for a used 03/04 cobra crank. But I wouldn't hesitate to use an Eagle crank after watching the Rep's production video from the factory in China. Or a set of Manley rods, for that matter. If it's a matter of red, white, and blue, then be prepared to spend a patriotic budget. You'd really be surprised how much shit in our vehicles comes from over-seas foundries.

As for Eagle crank specs/tolerances, any half-assed engine builder is going to measure/check tolerances before, during, and after assembly.

IMO, don't sweat the Eagle crank, if it's who you want, and what fits the budget, run with it. The majority of MMR fails comes from shoddy work and dogshit customer service. MMR (for what I've seen) uses the same parts everyone else does. It's all about knowledge, reputation, craftsmanship, and skill. MMR shoves a motor out the door and doesn't look back. If it works, praise and videos. If it flys apart, don't come knockin on their doors, they don't want to hear it.
 

raredesign

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I spoke with a rep from Eagle while at SEMA a several years ago. My biggest concern was quality control, as at the time Eagle was well known to produce forged parts out of China. Years later, low and behold Manley is producing forged parts out of China. As well as Sears signature tool brand, Craftsman.

It's well known the stock cranks have been put through the ringer on many builds, and I've yet to read of a stock crank failure. Personally, if I was looking for a "better" crank, I would be looking for a used 03/04 cobra crank. But I wouldn't hesitate to use an Eagle crank after watching the Rep's production video from the factory in China. Or a set of Manley rods, for that matter. If it's a matter of red, white, and blue, then be prepared to spend a patriotic budget. You'd really be surprised how much shit in our vehicles comes from over-seas foundries.

As for Eagle crank specs/tolerances, any half-assed engine builder is going to measure/check tolerances before, during, and after assembly.

IMO, don't sweat the Eagle crank, if it's who you want, and what fits the budget, run with it. The majority of MMR fails comes from shoddy work and dogshit customer service. MMR (for what I've seen) uses the same parts everyone else does. It's all about knowledge, reputation, craftsmanship, and skill. MMR shoves a motor out the door and doesn't look back. If it works, praise and videos. If it flys apart, don't come knockin on their doors, they don't want to hear it.

Thanks for the info. There was a discussion i found on here about the Eagle journals being smaller Honda journals that won't allow for Manley rods. Is this still the case?
 

RocketcarX

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Thanks for the info. There was a discussion i found on here about the Eagle journals being smaller Honda journals that won't allow for Manley rods. Is this still the case?

Fake news. They use Honda sized journals on their 5.0 stroker kit, I should add that it doesn't apply to stock stroke stuff.
 
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RocketcarX

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I would look at kits from Mod Max, those guys will ship it all balanced, ready to be assembled and you can choose the brands you like.
 

Speedboosted

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For reference, L&M charged me around $850 to balance and assemble a 5.4 short block. I highly recommend them. I'm in WA and shipped it back and forth to them
 

raredesign

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I've got a lot to consider. Thanks all.
Love the fake news pun btw.

Since the journals are different for the stroker, what options does that leave with it...their own stuff? I was planning on stroking for the extra torque, and because I already know that at shows everyone will ask, "is it a 5.0?".
 

01yellerCobra

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I have a stroker crank in my 323. The journal size is 2". So the rods are for a small block Chevy in 5.85" length. They're Eagle rods.

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk
 

raredesign

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I have a stroker crank in my 323. The journal size is 2". So the rods are for a small block Chevy in 5.85" length. They're Eagle rods.

Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk

That's my worry. When pushing 20+psi, I'd like a name behind it like Manley.
 

stkjock

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my .02 - if you're going to boost it 20+ psi, forget stroking it, you don't need the cubes, depending of what fuel you intend to run, bump the CR to 9.5 or 10:1
 

raredesign

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I planned on lower comp for safer tune since I will go back to 93 at some point. The district placement was to help with torque on lower comp. Sound about right?
 

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