Misimoto vs Reische t stat

Did some digging on this subject and could only find posts from years ago, when it seemed these were fairly new.
I'm looking to replace my T stat and radiator for improved cooling on my 06 GT.

I read that picking a 160/170 degree t stat should be based on your build(Paxton supercharged, 5 speed) and location (as far as ambient temps). I live in upstate NY, where summer temps can be from the 70s to the upper 80s/ mid 90s. I don't drive the car in the winter, and it's not even close to a daily driver. But I do like to take it out in the fall when the night time temps would be in the 50s/60s. ( this is great boost weather!)

So basically I either want the Mishimoto 160* or the Reische 170*. I know Reische is pretty reputable and I've read Mishimoto Radiators tend to leak, so I'm Just wondering if anyone has an updated opinion on the better T stat for my application

If you decide to go with the Reische 170, I have one for sale in the classifieds. I drive my car year round with a short commute to work, car would run too cold in the winter months.

I went with a 160 Degree Hypertech in my build back in 2013. Car only sees fair weather and not often November temps in southern Ontario Canada.

help me out here, what makes these thermostats better/different than the autozone/o'reilly 160/170 thermostat?

Personally, I would not recommend anything lower than 180*. The engine may not reach designed operating temp with a lower temp Tstat. Which also means the pistons and bores will be running too cold. Pistons are designed to "become round" as they come up to designed operating temps. (this is also why you should never beat on a cold engine)

So why do ppl run colder Tstats? Cooler temps = denser air = more power at the expense of accelerated/premature piston and cylinder wear. In the days of carbed V8s this was common practice. Sometimes NO tsat, and a nice fat AFR, and the engine ran like a raped ape, got shittier than usual MPGs, and needed much more frequent oil changes.

I see absolutely no reason to do this on a modern fuel injected engine.

If you are having an overheating issue (for reason other than a stuck Tstat), you need to find out why you are overheating. The radiator may be too small for the HP level, the AFR could be off (LEAN = HOT), airflow issues over the radiator, just to name a few possiblitiesl

Stock Tstat and a BIG radiator is the way to go.

I have a 180* T-stat from O'Reily, whatever their brand is. Have been running on it since 2010, no issues. I have my Coolant Temp sensor in the D/S of the engine block, it indicates 180* at normal operating temp (SCT Livewire reading the Temp sensor in the P/S head reads 190* normal operating temp), I do get to 200-205* with A/C running on 100*+ day. I'm okay with that, as I don't beat on my car on hot ass days. Hottest it ever got was around Baker/Victorville going to Santa Barbara for vacation in August. Running max A/C through the mountains in the afternoon it hit 210*. Personally I blame the shitty Procharger fan for not being able to keep up. The T-stat works great though.

200-210* is perfect. I'm OK up to 220* water temp.

I find Oil Temp as a very good early indicator of possible danger of overheating. It will rise to danger levels well before water temp starts to climb. Normal oil temp is about the same or slightly higher than water temp. I start to get concerned if oil temp is 40* or more above water temp.

Juice said:

Personally, I would not recommend anything lower than 180*. The engine may not reach designed operating temp with a lower temp Tstat. Which also means the pistons and bores will be running too cold. Pistons are designed to "become round" as they come up to designed operating temps. (this is also why you should never beat on a cold engine)

So why do ppl run colder Tstats? Cooler temps = denser air = more power at the expense of accelerated/premature piston and cylinder wear. In the days of carbed V8s this was common practice. Sometimes NO tsat, and a nice fat AFR, and the engine ran like a raped ape, got shittier than usual MPGs, and needed much more frequent oil changes.

I see absolutely no reason to do this on a modern fuel injected engine.

If you are having an overheating issue (for reason other than a stuck Tstat), you need to find out why you are overheating. The radiator may be too small for the HP level, the AFR could be off (LEAN = HOT), airflow issues over the radiator, just to name a few possiblitiesl

Stock Tstat and a BIG radiator is the way to go.

Click to expand...

Hey, look, someone who actually understands how thermostats work!

A thermostat controls the lowest temperature of your engine, not the highest. It will not fix overheating, it will not make more power, and it will certainly not decrease engine wear. It's only effect will be making your car never reach proper operating temp.

Sky Render said:

Hey, look, someone who actually understands how thermostats work!

A thermostat controls the lowest temperature of your engine, not the highest. It will not fix overheating, it will not make more power, and it will certainly not decrease engine wear. It's only effect will be making your car never reach proper operating temp.

Click to expand...

Well I'm glad I asked because up until this post, I have read that the lower temp t-stat would open sooner allowing the flow to start sooner, thus keeping the temperature of the engine down.

So I guess I'll just leave the 180* alone and go for a three row radiator

06StangGT said:

Well I'm glad I asked because up until this post, I have read that the lower temp t-stat would open sooner allowing the flow to start sooner, thus keeping the temperature of the engine down.

So I guess I'll just leave the 180* alone and go for a three row radiator

Click to expand...

Yeah it will still reach the same operating temp. It may take a few more minutes to get there but once it's open the system is same same. Only way to run cooler is to increase efficiency through capacity or flow. If you are looking to run a little lower may I suggest a Meziere electric pump. I run a Whipple with AC in the hot desert and my factory cylinder temp gauge never even gets to the middle of the gauge. Before I put it in and running NA the needle always used to be straight up and down in the middle of the gauge. Now it is one notch below that and has never gone higher.

When does an engine tend to overheat? At idle with no air over the radiator and the minimum amount of water flowing because your mechanical pump is turning at it's slowest speed. With an electric it is flowing at full capacity all of the time. I have mine wired with the fans to operate with the motor off when I want. I can cool my motor down and run consistent times at 20 minute intervals. I have actually seen my temp gauge go down in the staging lanes with the motor running. You will never see a mechanical pump do that. And if you ever snap your belt you can drive it without overheating till you run out of battery. anyways, I think it is the one of the best ways to increase your cooling capacity.