Need help pulling longblock with tranny

raredesign

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I bought a leveler with brackets for the picker, but realized after reading other forum posts, it is for pulling it without the transmission.
Additionally, I’ve been cautioned to never lift by the heads, and to ensure the bolts are in the block instead.

Since I would like to pull it with the transmission, should I get some straps like these https://t.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-6-ft-6400-lb-capacity-web-sling-95626.html and wrap it through the header?

If using straps I could clip them right to the main cherry picker hook, unless it would be of benefit to somehow still use the leveler with them.

Thanks
 

07 Boss

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I think You're gonna want to be able to change the attitude of the block and tranny to get it out. Your gonna want the ability to tilt it to get it out and level it out to swing it out of the engine bay.

My suggestion. If you 're pulling the engine and tranny together, why not unbolt the K-member and trans mount and just lift the car up? Then you can just grab the tail of the tranny and wheel the whole unit out from under there.
 

raredesign

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I think You're gonna want to be able to change the attitude of the block and tranny to get it out. Your gonna want the ability to tilt it to get it out and level it out to swing it out of the engine bay.

My suggestion. If you 're pulling the engine and tranny together, why not unbolt the K-member and trans mount and just lift the car up? Then you can just grab the tail of the tranny and wheel the whole unit out from under there.

Thanks for the reply. I am doing this on jack stands in my garage and don’t have a way to lift it for that approach.
 

LikeabossTM

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Different drivetrain than me, however, just to comment on your straps around header idea - you're still effectively lifting from the heads (by virtue of the headers being attached to the heads).
 

ILW84U

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You can still use the leveler. I removed the intake & alternator first and bolted the leveler brackets to the top 2 transmission bolts & the alternator bracket bolts (make sure these are tight as they are small bolts).
 

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raredesign

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Different drivetrain than me, however, just to comment on your straps around header idea - you're still effectively lifting from the heads (by virtue of the headers being attached to the heads).

Good point. I’ll go with what ILW84U posted below.

You can still use the leveler. I removed the intake & alternator first and bolted the leveler brackets to the top 2 transmission bolts & the alternator bracket bolts (make sure these are tight as they are small bolts).

Awesome, thank you for th photos! That really helps.
 

07 Boss

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Thanks for the reply. I am doing this on jack stands in my garage and don’t have a way to lift it for that approach.

I use my engine hoist to lift the front of the car. You don't have to get the whole thing off the ground, just the front high enough to roll the motor out.
 

msvela448

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You can still use the leveler. I removed the intake & alternator first and bolted the leveler brackets to the top 2 transmission bolts & the alternator bracket bolts (make sure these are tight as they are small bolts).
Do it like this... I've done it 3 times this way, and with the headers on ... And with the hood on even. No problems

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

raredesign

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You can still use the leveler. I removed the intake & alternator first and bolted the leveler brackets to the top 2 transmission bolts & the alternator bracket bolts (make sure these are tight as they are small bolts).

Do it like this... I've done it 3 times this way, and with the headers on ... And with the hood on even. No problems

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Should I be skeptical of how thin the alternator mount studs are and how thin the wall of the flange is? I had someone else tell me they have pulled many by using the larger bolts visible on the front with the antivibration peice, but I’ve heard many times not to pull from the head.

Are the studs on the front the correct way, or just a convenient way? I know I am very gun shy when it comes to this. Don’t want an expensive mistake?

37320880900_5ab1d38203_z.jpg


37530814566_46f5c53779_z.jpg
 
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LikeabossTM

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Should I be skeptical of how thin the alternator mount studs are and how thin the wall of the flange is? I had someone else tell me they have pulled many by using the larger bolts visible on the front with the antivibration peice, but I’ve heard many times not to pull from the head.

Are the studs on the front the correct way, or just a convenient way? I know I am very gun shy when it comes to this. Don’t want an expensive mistake?

37320880900_5ab1d38203_z.jpg


37530814566_46f5c53779_z.jpg
Those stud bosses are thick - the thin part you're looking at is the extra gusseting that provides even more structural stability.

I don't know about your engine specifically, but turning bolts all the way into those front holes, as well as the top trans bolt holes at the back, is exactly how the workshop manual instructs to pull the Coyote.

I think you'll be fine.
 

raredesign

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but turning bolts all the way into those front holes


I think that is the part I am confused about. Are you saying to remove the studs there in the middle where the alternator was and to bolt in the bracket for the lift chain, or is there something I’m missing? Sorry I feel dense.

Thanks
 

msvela448

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I think that is the part I am confused about. Are you saying to remove the studs there in the middle where the alternator was and to bolt in the bracket for the lift chain, or is there something I’m missing? Sorry I feel dense.

Thanks
I have never had studs in there.. Just used regular bolts through the chain on the leveler/hoist. Pulled the whole long block with tyranny that way.

Since you are pulling the whole engine you could just remove the heads if it makes you feel better with less weight on those bosses.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

LikeabossTM

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Remove the studs/bolts circled in red and bolt your leveler in their place.

716793f5789d3d1bd5a57c805e8d21d6.jpg
 

raredesign

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I have never had studs in there.. Just used regular bolts through the chain on the leveler/hoist. Pulled the whole long block with tyranny that way.

Since you are pulling the whole engine you could just remove the heads if it makes you feel better with less weight on those bosses.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Remove the studs/bolts circled in red and bolt your leveler in their place.

716793f5789d3d1bd5a57c805e8d21d6.jpg

Thank you all for your help. I also just noticed zoomed in on ILW84U’s top photo, he too has the studs and just used them. I guess I’ll give it a go as is.

Thanks again!
 

ILW84U

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Thank you all for your help. I also just noticed zoomed in on ILW84U’s top photo, he too has the studs and just used them. I guess I’ll give it a go as is.

Thanks again!

Because those studs are so long, just make sure you bolt the leveler right up against the block. Shoudn't have a problem.
 

Logan@Lethal

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Hey Logan! I didn’t even know you guys were on here! Terry hooked me up on a fuel system and injectors. You guys are awesome!

I do have a decent hoist, so I’m hoping to get some time this evening to finally pull it.

I appreciate the praise :D. Yes, we are both on here.. I try and spend as much time as possible across all the forums (THERE ARE WAY TOO MANY!!!). Definitely keep us updated on your progress!! Feel free to message me if you have any questions as well.
Hope the fuel system and injectors did you well :party52:
 

05stroker

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Thank you all for your help. I also just noticed zoomed in on ILW84U’s top photo, he too has the studs and just used them. I guess I’ll give it a go as is.

Thanks again!

Ive done this 8 times on different cars and never had an issue. I use the two top trans bolts and the alt bolts with headers trans and all bolted up if possible.
 

raredesign

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Hey guys, I got some time and tried to pull it today, but had some issues.
I am not sure if I did something wrong or if it is because I had a harbor freight 3/4 ton leveler.

The L brackets started bending quite a bit, and was noticed after the motor started tipping to the right, allowing the left(passenger) motor mount to clear off, but the right was still holding on. The brackets in the back were bending, with the right(driver) bracket bent the most.









I checked all around and couldn't see anything else holding on to it, and because I had lowered the trans, it tilted nicely giving me a lot of room in the tunnel.

The brackets are obviously not tempered steel, and looking at ILW84U's photo, his didn't bend at all.

Do I just need a better quality leveler, and which brand if so? Autozone has there own Duralast brand, and Home Depot had one with good reviews, but none of the specifications mention tempered steel.
 

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