Any torco users / believers

skaarlaj

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Just wondering, if Torco fuel additive is working as advertised for any of you? I'm more than likely going to be adding better rods, pistons, and valvesprings over the course of the winter in preparation of more boost / power, in hopes to keep it alive for better track times, and still enabling me to drive her home afterwards.

I have E85 available locally, but I'd have to do a flex fuel system to ensure I could fuel up anywhere to keep this thing road-worthy, and also could possibly get away with a smaller fuel system if running Torco / gasoline vs E85. Maybe E85 is a no brainer, and I shouldn't be worried about fuel system and extra tuning costs??

On Torco itself, I've heard good, and bad. I have a supercharged Mercedes C63 and a smaller blower pulley is available for it, but they offer no tuning for E85, and say that just using race gas in conjunction with turning up the boost will be fine, and I responded with "what about Torco", and they advised me against that strongly. And in my world, Race gas is rediclously too expensive to actually use full time on a street car. If I didn't have to run a shorter belt through 11 or so pulleys / idlers on the C63 to enable the blower pulley change, I'd simply use race gas while racing, and swap back to the larger pulley afterwards, but again constantly needing race gas is a no go on a street driven vehicle for me.
 

drive_55_not

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I ran 30 bottles of TORCO mixed with Kangaroo Express 100 octane pump gas through my TVS 3v, 15psi and never had any detonation even with adding a 100 shot ..

The only issue you'll have MMT based octane boosters is the combustion chambers will turn reddish but no other effects.

I did start using Gulf Mach 116 unleaded when I went to a 200+shot.

.
 

skaarlaj

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The highest octane gasoline in my area is only 91, I'm sort of the opinion that if I needed torco to mix with my race gas, I'd just buy better race gas. Do you think their mix chart is pretty accurate? I don't really know the octane needed to run about 15-16 psi through a Coyote with similar spark advance that I'm currently at now but that's where I was going to work up to with my waste-gate, after strengthening the bottom end of the factory motor.

I started off with the 10# waste-gate spring my Paxton kit came with, and am now on the 12# spring, and although I'm enjoying the extra kick, I'm afraid I'm pushing it a bit much to rely on getting back home after a hard day at the track with the car. My datalogs show just a hint of knock at around 5000-5400, then it tapers off to nothing through red-line, and the ECU doesn't take any spark advance away during that short rpm span of slight knock, so this leads me to believe with tuning I'd be good to go, I just don't feel comfortable knowing there's 12#s on a stock motor is all, and of cours more is always better, hahaha.
 

NUTCASE

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It works, but you should sit down and crunch the numbers first to make sure your not spending more money than cutting pump with race gas. Or just running race gas.

Also, I don't know whats available in your area, but if you can find toluene at your local paint store you should do some google searching.... I was about to run 93 cut with toluene for when I spray but you can only get toluene substitute chemicals in my area.
 

skaarlaj

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I'll have to check that out, and thanks for the info.
 

bunits19714

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You need to figure what miles per year your going to put on the car- if your driving it 2500 a year then 91+ race fuel isn't that much - obvious e-85 is way cheap (1.49 a gallon here) but a fuel system will cost you from 1000-2500 depending on if you install it your self and this doesn't include injectors(if applicable) I switched to e-85 and am glad I did now( not so much when I was in the retuning phase) Running mixed fuel will cost you approx. 7-800 a year on 2500 miles, e-85 less than 300, so yes your saving 500 a year in fuel cost but it takes you 5 years of those savings to pay for your initial system cost. if you drive it a lot then obviously it will re coupe much faster-
** I ran octane booster a couple times in 2016 and the car ate a set of plus for some reason (1200 miles on them) ($90) so I personally wouldn't use it unless you absolutely had to-
 

skaarlaj

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You need to figure what miles per year your going to put on the car- if your driving it 2500 a year then 91+ race fuel isn't that much - obvious e-85 is way cheap (1.49 a gallon here) but a fuel system will cost you from 1000-2500 depending on if you install it your self and this doesn't include injectors(if applicable) I switched to e-85 and am glad I did now( not so much when I was in the retuning phase) Running mixed fuel will cost you approx. 7-800 a year on 2500 miles, e-85 less than 300, so yes your saving 500 a year in fuel cost but it takes you 5 years of those savings to pay for your initial system cost. if you drive it a lot then obviously it will re coupe much faster-
** I ran octane booster a couple times in 2016 and the car ate a set of plus for some reason (1200 miles on them) ($90) so I personally wouldn't use it unless you absolutely had to-
Do you think your stock fuel system would supply your current 7xxwhp with race gas instead of e85, it almost seems like you'd need an expensive fuel system either way.
 

fourdegrees11

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Noob question, but arent 47lb injectors all that's needed to run E-85? Of course being boosted could need bigger injectors and a BAP.
 

bunits19714

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I would of been starting to get toward the upper end of its limits(boosta pump+stock system). but they do make some areo drop in pumps that will supply with gas / race gas not cheap but not as in-depth as running a return(which is just a lil time consuming) .
 

bunits19714

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Noob question, but arent 47lb injectors all that's needed to run E-85? Of course being boosted could need bigger injectors and a BAP.
Most boosted engines(coyote) over 575 rwhp(on GAS) your starting to need a boosta pump, sometimes sooner, and the min injector size you would run on e-85 would probably be a 72# . I know guys that have gone into the 9 .60 et range on 80# inj and a tvs, & e-85-, As a rule of thumb you will require 30%+ more fuel delivery capacity with e-85 than gas
 

Riptide

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Lucas is a bit cheaper and works nearly as well. 91 is also the best I can do too I know the situation you're in. No E85 and MS109 is stupid expensive.

I wouldn't bat an eyelash at using MMT but I wouldn't tune for it. Insurance against detonation with 91 pump? Sure. No substitute for E85 or MS109 though. And I'd change plugs more often if I used it a lot.
 

NUTCASE

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Noob question, but arent 47lb injectors all that's needed to run E-85? Of course being boosted could need bigger injectors and a BAP.

This applies to bolt on cars.

certain tuners and internet types who I will not mention because I don't want to deal with the argument have sold people on converting a bolt on coyote to corn.

I have, in person, see two people at the track very frustrated because they went through the trouble of converting a bolt on coyote to e85 and got gains comperable to a pre-game of coffee, bannanas, and exlax.
 

skaarlaj

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Lucas is a bit cheaper and works nearly as well. 91 is also the best I can do too I know the situation you're in. No E85 and MS109 is stupid expensive.

I wouldn't bat an eyelash at using MMT but I wouldn't tune for it. Insurance against detonation with 91 pump? Sure. No substitute for E85 or MS109 though. And I'd change plugs more often if I used it a lot.
I actually have E85 locally, but just wondering if stock pump, bap, and ID 1000s would cut the mustard on Torco up to around 15ish psi, then swap waste-gate springs back down to 12 or so after getting back to 91 pump.
 

bunits19714

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Filled up today before my 125 mile cruise it was 11 bucks, that is the good benefit of the E, just the initial investment hit is pricy.
 

fourdegrees11

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This applies to bolt on cars.

certain tuners and internet types who I will not mention because I don't want to deal with the argument have sold people on converting a bolt on coyote to corn.

I have, in person, see two people at the track very frustrated because they went through the trouble of converting a bolt on coyote to e85 and got gains comperable to a pre-game of coffee, bannanas, and exlax.

If all it takes is different injectors that sounds pretty worth it to me, at least if I could get a flex-fuel tune. I have one e-85 station nearby. I've heard N/A is 15-20 hp from e-85, and the injectors are under $300. That's really good bang for the buck IMO.
 

skaarlaj

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Filled up today before my 125 mile cruise it was 11 bucks, that is the good benefit of the E, just the initial investment hit is pricy.
Is your car flex fuel, or do you have to change tunes if you change fuels??
 

stkjock

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Filled up today before my 125 mile cruise it was 11 bucks, that is the good benefit of the E, just the initial investment hit is pricy.

depending on how one uses the car, worth the upgrade IMO, spend the $$ now and have a huge cushion for saving one's motor.
 

Riptide

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I actually have E85 locally, but just wondering if stock pump, bap, and ID 1000s would cut the mustard on Torco up to around 15ish psi, then swap waste-gate springs back down to 12 or so after getting back to 91 pump.
In your case I'd get set up for E85. If it were available that is what I'd be doing. You can run it practically year round however if the car sits in the winter I would load a pump fuel tune and fill it up with 91. It is good to run regular gasoline through there occasionally and is a must if it is going to be sitting for weeks+.

Stoich is different between gasoline and E85. Typically people run two different calibrations.
 

bunits19714

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Is your car flex fuel, or do you have to change tunes if you change fuels??

Straight e-85 it was switched over to when I swapped the shortblock and turned the boost up- my car is a fair weather car and I will actually put about 3-3300 miles on it before it gets put away for winter storage- I drive mine when its nice even when cold until the first road salt starts to fly. which sometimes doesn't start to Jan. In 2016 it only seen around 2500 miles.
I usually start it every 2-3 weeks in the winter and let it run for 20 mins or so.
I also have access to e-98 which is uncut e-85 +/- the % to satisfy the fed gov. for not being consumable alcohol. It runs me about 3.50 a gallon and includes the 55 gallon drum- then you cut it accordingly with race fuel or premium. CAR STARTS VERY HARDDDDDD ON THIS STUFF, even when only 90-93% because there isn't much petroleum by products in it compared to pump e-85- no regulations on what the 15 percent has to be made up of.
The e-98 is a nice go to if for some reason we get a early spring or am going south for a race or something, Because winter blend is coming sooner than later(e-70 around here)
 

skaarlaj

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Thanks for the info Bunits, hows you trans holding up to the added power? I'm guessing it's still stock, maybe aside from the converter now?
 

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