B53 shortblock vs others

inglimer

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Thanks 55 not, that's what I needed and I appreciate you taking the time.
That's the first I've heard about needing a crank damper.How important is it, as it's pricey?
Would a forged crank accomplish the same thing?
I'm not questioning your advice, just looking for clarification.
 

06StangGT

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Thanks 55 not, that's what I needed and I appreciate you taking the time.
That's the first I've heard about needing a crank damper.How important is it, as it's pricey?
Would a forged crank accomplish the same thing?
I'm not questioning your advice, just looking for clarification.

The crank “damper” is often referred to as the crank pulley. It’s cheap insurance for a build. Roughly $400 last I checked for an innovators West or ATI (2 is the top rated dampers out there)
 

inglimer

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55 not had an either or option on choice of main bolt kit and head changing kit and there's quite a price difference in each case.
Are the less expensive alternatives not kosher for up to 550 whp?
 
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01yellerCobra

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55 not had an either or option on choice of main bolt kit and head changing kit and there's quite a price difference in each case.
Are the less expensive alternatives not kosher for up to 550 whp?
I ran ARP studs all around on my set up. But I believe BruceH ran stock replacement TTY bolts with no issues. And he made it up to high 600's I think.

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inglimer

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Not to put too fine a point on this, but those Wiesco pistons are listed as 6cc dish rather than 6.5
I assume that's ok?
 

drive_55_not

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Not to put too fine a point on this, but those Wiesco pistons are listed as 6cc dish rather than 6.5
I assume that's ok?


Running the numbers thru a compression ratio calculator show there's only a .05 difference in C/R between a 6cc and 6.5cc dish piston.
You shouldn't have any issues with detonation on pump gas using a -6cc piston .

For reference I was running 520rwhp on my stock bottom rotating assembly for over a year on BP93 pump gas with my TVS setup.. If you're going to use a stock cast crank and keep it under 600hp then the TTY bolts should be fine,

A big reason for using an aftermarket crank damper, even on a forged crank, is to reduce the weight on the crank snout, the cast OE damper weighs 10.5lbs IIRC, aftermarket are 7-ish .. that'll help take some stress off the crank if you're running a tight belt for belt slip,, you can get an aftermarket damper with 8-grooves and run a wider belt to help belt slip.



.
 

01yellerCobra

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Go with a wider belt and less tension. Tight belts kill main bearings. I saw that on my first big bore. Second time around I ran an 8 rib, right sized belt, and a Thump tensioner. I had no belt slip and my main bearings were fine when I pulled it apart.

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06StangGT

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Anybody know if a 8 rib crank damper will work on the Paxton 6 rib setup? I’d like to get an over drive crank pulley for my setup before I do the entire 8 rib conversion.

Also would running an overdrive pulley be bad for the other accessories
 

01yellerCobra

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Anybody know if a 8 rib crank damper will work on the Paxton 6 rib setup? I’d like to get an over drive crank pulley for my setup before I do the entire 8 rib conversion.

Also would running an overdrive pulley be bad for the other accessories
You can run an 8 rib pulley with a 6 rib belt. I've done it before. I ran a 12% overdrive crank pulley and stock everything else and didn't have any issues.

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06StangGT

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You can run an 8 rib pulley with a 6 rib belt. I've done it before. I ran a 12% overdrive crank pulley and stock everything else and didn't have any issues.

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Than you. That’s what I needed to know! Just wanted to make sure everything cleared and that I’m not stuck with a 6 rib O/D pulley once I upgrade to the 8 rib setup
 

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