'14 GT Automatic - drag racing results from a few simple mods

Five Oh Brian

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You are doing great Brian! IIRC this car is going faster than your 07 did with a non intercooled supercharger. You seem to be able to get every last bit out of a car in the quarter mile.

Your wife is right IMO. Buy the vehicle with the options you want and you won't want to trade it off. I haven't traded or sold a vehicle in about 4 years. The reason for that is by getting the options I want and not having remorse about what I didn't get.

One of these days I'll make it out to Bremerton on a Friday afternoon.

Hey, Bruce. Haven't seen you at the track in a long time. Hope you can get out to Bremerton sometime. I plan on going on the 27th for some test n tune. You're correct that this '14 GT is faster than my '07 was. The '07 ran a best of 11.79 @ 114, but usually ran low 12's as the non-intercooled Vortech would heat soak badly. I can hotlap the '14 and stay in the 11's, and it's gone over 116 through the traps a few times (and a bunch of 115's).

You are so right that getting what you want instead of compromising is the key to long term happiness and actually saves money in the long run, since it keeps you out of the trade-in cycle.
 

Five Oh Brian

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It will be snapier feeling on the street with the 4.10. At the track it is a total wash vs. the 3.15. Any gear change will take time and is not instant. MPG will take a hit with the steeper gear as well.

It all boils down to what your goals are and it sounds like you are there.

My highway mpg went down to about 23 with the 4.10's versus 29 with the 3.15's, but my in town mpg improved from about 12 with the 3.15's to about 14 with 4.10's. I only live 4 miles from work and 90% of my driving is in town, so my overall fuel economy went up with the 4.10's.

I'm pleased that the 4.10's didn't slow down my car in the 1/4 mile, and it sure feels a lot snappier/lighter on the street so it's very entertaining to drive, so the 4.10's work for me. I can see how 4.10's wouldn't be right for others, though.
 

roberts

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i like how u document everything for people in the future to see what u get gains u get from what part. Sometimes i wish i would of traded my 3v in on a 5.0. But now that i have tore into it im going to keep it cause seeing it would be hard. Nice thread man.

When u boosting the 5.0? if so what application?
 

CoreGT

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I think we met at Pacific Raceways a few weekends back. Nice to see you on a forum.
I've been working out hardware/tune issues my last few visits, and after getting clarification from the track manager and the NHRA Division 6 office, I'm 99% sure I'll be asked to leave soon. I just hope I get a clean pass in first!
 

Five Oh Brian

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i like how u document everything for people in the future to see what u get gains u get from what part. Sometimes i wish i would of traded my 3v in on a 5.0. But now that i have tore into it im going to keep it cause seeing it would be hard. Nice thread man.

When u boosting the 5.0? if so what application?

Thanks! I keep a big spreadsheet of all of my 1/4 mile passes and I take a lot of notes when I race about equipment, tire pressure, weather, etc.

I love centrifugal superchargers for drag racing and had a Vortech supercharged '07 GT automatic, so if I ever boost my 5.0L it'll either be a Vortech or Paxton. However, I'm just looking for mid 11's in the 1/4 mile, so I'm nearly done modding (for now).
 

Five Oh Brian

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I think we met at Pacific Raceways a few weekends back. Nice to see you on a forum.
I've been working out hardware/tune issues my last few visits, and after getting clarification from the track manager and the NHRA Division 6 office, I'm 99% sure I'll be asked to leave soon. I just hope I get a clean pass in first!

Yes, we did meet a couple weeks ago at Pacific Raceways. Your yellow blaze GT was awesome to watch. I really thought I'd see you run a 9.99 or better and believe you'll get there soon.

Pacific & Bremerton have been ignoring the rollcage rule a bit lately, but you're right that you'll likely have to get a cage at your ET/MPH before much longer or they'll shut you down. I don't want a cage in my car (it's a daily driver), so I'm resistant to adding boost. I have a friend with a ProCharged '12 GT Automatic making 630 rwhp that's awesome to drive (I've made a pass in it at Bremerton and it was quite a handful) and my '07 GT was blown, so boost is addicting. Watching your car run at Pacific just makes it harder to resist adding boost!
 

CoreGT

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Yes, we did meet a couple weeks ago at Pacific Raceways. Your yellow blaze GT was awesome to watch. I really thought I'd see you run a 9.99 or better and believe you'll get there soon.

Pacific & Bremerton have been ignoring the rollcage rule a bit lately, but you're right that you'll likely have to get a cage at your ET/MPH before much longer or they'll shut you down. I don't want a cage in my car (it's a daily driver), so I'm resistant to adding boost. I have a friend with a ProCharged '12 GT Automatic making 630 rwhp that's awesome to drive (I've made a pass in it at Bremerton and it was quite a handful) and my '07 GT was blown, so boost is addicting. Watching your car run at Pacific just makes it harder to resist adding boost!

Thanks! I have been chasing some issues in the tune, belt slip (original belt w/17k on it) and fuel delivery, so things haven't been 100% on a pass yet. I've since changed the belt to a smaller one (created fuel issues!), worked on the tune, and have a new JMS BAP being delivered.

I don't plan on putting a cage in this car either. It's a full weight street car with truly minimal mods that was daily driven until I moved up here. I'll run it until they don't let me anymore.

How does your friend's Procharged 12 run? I'd love to get a crack at it on the track one day:poke:
 

Five Oh Brian

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^^^ roll bar or roll cage?

Roll bar = < 11.50
Roll cage = < 9.99

Sorry, I'm guilty of interchanging the two terms. Our local tracks say they require a 6 pt roll bar < 11.50, but they often don't enforce this one. However, they do enforce the roll cage requirement for cars running 9.99 or better, and CoreGT is very close to getting into the 9's.

I'm not willing to put a roll bar in my '14 as I daily drive it and have the occasional rear seat passengers. That's why I'm nearly done modding this car. Once my daughters (20 & 22 y/o) move out, I may very well put in the roll bar a supercharge it. But for now, I'm content running 11's.
 

Five Oh Brian

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Thanks! I have been chasing some issues in the tune, belt slip (original belt w/17k on it) and fuel delivery, so things haven't been 100% on a pass yet. I've since changed the belt to a smaller one (created fuel issues!), worked on the tune, and have a new JMS BAP being delivered.

I don't plan on putting a cage in this car either. It's a full weight street car with truly minimal mods that was daily driven until I moved up here. I'll run it until they don't let me anymore.

How does your friend's Procharged 12 run? I'd love to get a crack at it on the track one day:poke:

Tuning & fuel issues seem to be a common concern with boosted cars and we don't really have a good tuner in the area anymore. We used to be blessed with John Garner, who owned the Horsepower Ranch. John tuned my Vortech Supercharged '07 GT with great success with dyno time and a lot of street time to get it super streetable. He moved to the Midwest and sold his dyno to The Mustang Shop in Auburn a couple of years ago, but they don't really have anyone near John's level of expertise. And, remote tuning is so difficult with boost in the equation so that's another reason I'm hesitant to add boost. Sure wish we could get an awesome tuner back in the Seattle area!!!

My friend, Bob, with the white Procharged '12 GT automatic has been plagued with fuel & tuning issues, like you. You'll easily beat his car at this point in time. With 630 rwhp there's no reason it shouldn't run mid 10's at 130 mph in the 1/4 mile, but it hasn't gone any better than 11.2's @ 124. He has all the exhaust & suspension mods, sticky tires, fuel upgrades, 3.55 gears, converter, etc. He's got a 2-step that isn't working properly as it won't allow a proper burn out (keeps rpm's ultra low) and I've suggested that he simply remove the 2-step but he's trying to figure out how to work it. I made a pass in it at Bremerton a couple months ago when he was frustrated with it, and I could not get any heat in the tires and ran a very scary traction limited 11.70 @ 123 mph.

He took it to Pacific last week and it wouldn't trap higher than 119 mph, so something is really amiss. I've run out of ideas to get his car working properly since I have only driven it a few times on the street and just one pass down the strip. Just wish there was a shop locally that could sort it out for him.
 

CoreGT

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I do my own tuning but have had to ask for help from Shaun@AED and Justin@VMP on a few occasions when things were just out of my depth. My fueling issue is a hardware limitation that the BAP will overcome so I'm excited for the next passes. Prior to the last 2 mods (ID1000s/123mm CAI) I ran the car with 0 tune or fuel issues for 2 years so the tuning can be nailed down perfectly, I just chased more power! If you add boost, I'd strongly suggest AED as the tuner for these cars.

It sounds like Bob has quite a bit done to the car, and it's just not performing near its capability. Does he have datalogs from the passes? I could look at them and make suggestions. Who's tuning it now for him? I would also suggest removing the 2-step until things are sorted out better.

I don't have any suspension mods, and I don't have anything fancy like a 2-step. Stock exhaust manifolds, stock gears, stock converter, stock suspension, etc over here =)
 
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Five Oh Brian

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I do my own tuning but have had to ask for help from Shaun@AED and Justin@VMP on a few occasions when things were just out of my depth. My fueling issue is a hardware limitation that the BAP will overcome so I'm excited for the next passes. Prior to the last 2 mods (ID1000s/123mm CAI) I ran the car with 0 tune or fuel issues for 2 years so the tuning can be nailed down perfectly, I just chased more power! If you add boost, I'd strongly suggest AED as the tuner for these cars.

It sounds like Bob has quite a bit done to the car, and it's just not performing near its capability. Does he have datalogs from the passes? I could look at them and make suggestions. Who's tuning it now for him? I would also suggest removing the 2-step until things are sorted out better.

I don't have any suspension mods, and I don't have anything fancy like a 2-step. Stock exhaust manifolds, stock gears, stock converter, stock suspension, etc over here =)

Bob had the entire build done at TMS in Auburn - about $25K worth of mods! Latest tuning and fuel upgrades were done by George at Turbo Tech in Tacoma. He has never datalogged, but the car has been on TMS and Turbo Tech's dynos plenty. It's almost like the car isn't making boost as it's only trapping 118-119 mph now. I bet it would go 118 without the blower with just the supporting mods he has. I'll check with him to see if I can give you his phone #. He's a nice guy who deserves to have his car run as fast as it should with 630 rwhp, and it would be really cool if you found something obvious that's causing his woes.
 

Pentalab

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My highway mpg went down to about 23 with the 4.10's versus 29 with the 3.15's, but my in town mpg improved from about 12 with the 3.15's to about 14 with 4.10's. I only live 4 miles from work and 90% of my driving is in town, so my overall fuel economy went up with the 4.10's.

I'm pleased that the 4.10's didn't slow down my car in the 1/4 mile, and it sure feels a lot snappier/lighter on the street so it's very entertaining to drive, so the 4.10's work for me. I can see how 4.10's wouldn't be right for others, though.

Justin at VMP uses 3.55's in his 700 rwhp 2011 automatic. His wife ran a 9.79 @ 140mph... then a 9.69 @ 145 mph. In that case, I can see the use of a 3.55 gear. A 3.90 or 4.10 would be too much.
 

Five Oh Brian

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Justin at VMP uses 3.55's in his 700 rwhp 2011 automatic. His wife ran a 9.79 @ 140mph... then a 9.69 @ 145 mph. In that case, I can see the use of a 3.55 gear. A 3.90 or 4.10 would be too much.

Correct, 3.55's are plenty of gear in a car trapping 140 mph that makes that kind of power. At lower trap speeds and power levels, more gearing can help.

I've swapped rear end gears so many times over the years in every car I've owned. I always do the math to calculate the gearing I'll need to get close to redline in an appropriate gear to cross the finish line at my anticipated trap speed.
 

Grabber Blue 5.0

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Correct, 3.55's are plenty of gear in a car trapping 140 mph that makes that kind of power. At lower trap speeds and power levels, more gearing can help.

The converter and tuning were the best mods. I probably could have kept the stock 3.15 gears and gone just as quick as with the 4.10's.

Kind of contradicting yourself here aren't you?
 

CoreGT

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More gearing CAN help in cars with low amounts of torque (4.6 mod motor) or peaky power bands. I think in these 5.0 cars we've seen that while you can pick up some performance, in general, shorter gears don't seem to have an impact at the drag strip like the general rule of thumb would suggest (Be near red line in your 1:1 gear as you cross the traps).

Your driving experience will be altered though and some may prefer this. There's no question that a converter will have a much larger ET reduction at the track vs gears.
 

Sharad

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My friend, Bob, with the white Procharged '12 GT automatic has been plagued with fuel & tuning issues, like you. You'll easily beat his car at this point in time. With 630 rwhp there's no reason it shouldn't run mid 10's at 130 mph in the 1/4 mile, but it hasn't gone any better than 11.2's @ 124. He has all the exhaust & suspension mods, sticky tires, fuel upgrades, 3.55 gears, converter, etc. He's got a 2-step that isn't working properly as it won't allow a proper burn out (keeps rpm's ultra low) and I've suggested that he simply remove the 2-step but he's trying to figure out how to work it. I made a pass in it at Bremerton a couple months ago when he was frustrated with it, and I could not get any heat in the tires and ran a very scary traction limited 11.70 @ 123 mph.

He took it to Pacific last week and it wouldn't trap higher than 119 mph, so something is really amiss. I've run out of ideas to get his car working properly since I have only driven it a few times on the street and just one pass down the strip. Just wish there was a shop locally that could sort it out for him.

My ProCharged 2011 5.0 M6 ran 10.89 @ 128 on 10lbs at full weight, slammed on 19/20 rims. My friend's ProCharged 5.0 on 12lbs ran 10.00 @ 138 on 15" rims. Just for reference.
 

Five Oh Brian

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My ProCharged 2011 5.0 M6 ran 10.89 @ 128 on 10lbs at full weight, slammed on 19/20 rims. My friend's ProCharged 5.0 on 12lbs ran 10.00 @ 138 on 15" rims. Just for reference.

Thank you. Exactly why I know that something isn't right with my buddy's car. I've told him that I believe it should run mid 10's @ 130 in the 1/4.



Sent from SYNC in my '14 Mustang GT...
 

Sharad

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Thank you. Exactly why I know that something isn't right with my buddy's car. I've told him that I believe it should run mid 10's @ 130 in the 1/4.



Sent from SYNC in my '14 Mustang GT...



No problem. It's complicated because there are so many variables... but it's not too hard to run 10s with a ProCharged 5.0.
 

wbt

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More gearing CAN help in cars with low amounts of torque (4.6 mod motor) or peaky power bands. I think in these 5.0 cars we've seen that while you can pick up some performance, in general, shorter gears don't seem to have an impact at the drag strip like the general rule of thumb would suggest (Be near red line in your 1:1 gear as you cross the traps).

Your driving experience will be altered though and some may prefer this. There's no question that a converter will have a much larger ET reduction at the track vs gears.

The 5.0 doesn't make a ton of TQ at a low RPM either so that isn't the issue/difference.

The crutch for the 5.0 is the trans gearing. 4.17 first gear is key to getting away with running a 3.15 or 3.31 rear gear N/A.

FYI - there is no 1:1 gear in the 6R80.
 

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