DiMora's T56 Magnum XL transmission and BMR K-Member Installation Thread

DiMora

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I've been running a TR3650 stock 2006 GT 5 speed transmission with a Roush short shifter.

I barbecued my stock GT clutch when I added the TVS blower.

I "upgraded" to a McLeod RST clutch mated with a stock GT flywheel - set up by the McLeod factory.

That above combination cost me $900 to have it installed locally.

It ran fine for 500-1,000 miles, then it became very hard to get into gear when it would heat up. I read various theories, from transmission problems to the flywheel surface of the McLeod not matching the friction areas. I tried all the usual augmentations to resolve the issue - SS clutch line, Steeda Pro-Billet motor mounts, CHE K-Member brace with torque limiters, Roush short-throw shifter.

I blame the mating of the McLeod friction area to the OEM flywheel.

So...Skwerl recently totaled his Bullitt. He and I made a deal on his low-mileage T56 Magnum XL.

I sent his old RST that came with the transmission off to McLeod to have it converted to an RXT. I also bought a McLeod lightened steel flywheel.

Next I got an extimate from my local speed shop. They were craaaaaazzzzyyyyyy. Thread here:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114059

So...I decided to do it myself. My neighbor and I jacked the car up, put the front frame rails on 6 ton truck jackstands, and I used my Epic car ramps in the rear. Don't fret, right rear is on a full-length ramp and is chocked. It was solid:

photo2-vi.jpg


To facilitate removal of the old tranny, I ditched the factory K-member, radiator support, and added all new BMR pieces plus a BMR X-Brace:

BMR KM011 K member (1/2" lower motor mounts)
BMR RS003 radiator mount with sway bar mounts
BMR CB004 Chassis brace and radiator support

photo1-vi.jpg


The RS003 rad mount had terrible, terrible fit. Rad mount location holes were too narrow vs the OEM mounts points and the sway bar mount holes also did not align. I had to take a hydraulic RAM spreader to it to widen out the rad mounts a bit and then beat it straight to my liking with a giant rubber mallet, and then I had to grind bigger holes for the sway bar mounts. Almost boxed it up and sent it back, but you know me...I made it work. I'm your ModFather. My sway bar mounts are Steeda billet mounts, so that was part of the issue, but the Steeda billets are plug-and-play with the OEM mount holes, so the BMR mount holes should be identical IMHO.


uspension_Front_SwayBillet0007-vi.jpg


Kelly gave me feedback on another forum. I guess the factory sway bar mount holes vary from year-to-year, so BMR can't really make holes that fit other aftermarket parts.

On the topic of alignment and tolerances: I know tubing flexes a bit when it comes out of the jig, but there is no excuse for holes not aligning closely within factory ranges and having factory-width tolerances for the rad support bushing grommets. How many guys have hydraulic spreaders lying around? More BMR feedback: They are correcting the distance for the radiator mount spacing. It was off on the factory jig.


The K member was fine, save for the A-arm mounts being very, very tight. Again, these should be checked for tolerance before shipping.


And...generally speaking...the BMR directions suck. Guys like me are perfectionists, so I want to know what washers go where, which direction to insert bolts, lots of pics, etc.


Bear in mind that 1/2" lowered motor mounts on your K-member like I bought may cause long-tube header clearance issues with your steering shaft. I'm still battling that one. I had to "clearance" my headers a bit with a BF Hammer and a big punch, and I may have to ground my steering shaft pinch bolt head down a bit...both on total bolt height as well as the diameter of the round flange.


With all that said, I do like the BMR stuff overall and I would use it again. BMR are true innovators unlike other copy-cat companies.


40 pounds off the front of the car should be awesome.


I also modded my CHE K-member brace to work with the BMR K-Member - I shaved 15MM off of each end to make it fit without hitting the new transmission.

Installation of the new transmission went well. First I added the tranny separator plate:

photo4-vi.jpg


photo3-vi.jpg


Then the McLeod lightened steel flywheel with adapter ring (factory installed ring by McLeod). I added a new pilot bearing as well. I used a Harbor Freight pilot bearing puller tool, but I had to grind down the flanges as the diameter was a little too big (not shown).

photo4-vi.jpg


Then the first clutch disc and floater ring:

photo1-vi.jpg


Then the outer disc and the pressure plate:

photo5-vi.jpg


Then I marked up the scattershield and mated all bolts:

photo2-vi.jpg


Then I installed it, followed by the starter:

photo8-vi.jpg


Starter clearance was not a problem with Mac long-tubes:

photo2-vi.jpg


I added a new slave cylinder, then stuffed this baby in there using a Harbor freight low-profile tranny jack:

photo5-vi.jpg



Done:

photo13-vi.jpg


photo14-vi.jpg


Here is the modded CHE brace with the BMR K-Member - Again, I cut `15MM off each one:

photo6-vi.jpg


All buttoned up:

photo7-vi.jpg


New DSS driveshaft with slip-yoke that mates to the T56 Magnum XL:

photo3-vi.jpg


JPC driveshaft safety loop also added:

photo1-vi.jpg


photo7-vi.jpg


Splash guard re-installed. Zip ties on aft end:

photo-vi.jpg


Also added BMR A-arms:

photo6-vi.jpg


Torques and other techniques / information I used:

I wrote all that stuff on the bellhousing so I wouldn't have to look stuff up while on my back. The SC is for socket cap. NB = Nut/Bolt. 45 LB-FT was the torque value for the nuts/bolts. You'll also see 15MM there (for my socket size) I wrote all the hex or socket sizes and torque values on the bellhousing in permanent sharpie.

Other Information:

Bell housing (scattershield) to block torque for the Allen bolts I got from my factory service manual. Value is 33 LB-FT. Tremec said to use 31-40 LB-FT for the bellhousing to enclosure plate bolts. I used 35.
Transmission to bellhousing (scatter-shield) is 31-40 LB-ft. Again, I used 35.

Tranny crossmember to car underbody got factory torque of 46 LB-FT.
Trans mount to tranny got 35 (Tremec said 31-40)
Nuts on bottom of trans mount got 30 (Tremec says 25-35)

McLeod torques:

6 Pressure plate nuts (7/16 socket): 25 then 35 LB-FT in star pattern.
Floater strap bolts: 13MM socket (McLeod says 5/16 nuts) - 25 LB-FT
Adapter ring to flywheel (12MM socket) (McLeod did this for me; I did not remove it, but verified a torque click on every bolt). Factory spec is 33 LB-FT plus an additional 60 degrees; McLeod told me to jsut toqrque to 35 LB-FT and that is equivalent with the ARP fasteners.
Flywheel to crank bolts: 17MM socket 59 LB-FT (I'm using a GT crank still (stock engine) so this is a 6 bolt McLeod lightened steel flywheel I am using)

And...last but not least...McLeod says you CAN use Lok-Tite, but they say NOT TO in the instructions because guys use the RED stuff and use a ton of it and then McLeod cannot disassemble clutches that are sent back to them without a torch.

They said if I used Blue and used it sparingly that I could "go for it".

Tranny took 3.5 quarts of fluid once I drained out what was still left in there. Instructions said 8 pints so I was expecting a full four quarts of consumption as I filled it, but 3-3.5 did it since it had fluid in it before. I used Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and ignored the Dexron III sticker on the side of the tranny per everyone's recommendations (and I understand on this particular tranny Tremec says Mobil 1 ATF is actually desired).

I've driven in a couple hundred miles now, and I love it. The transmission has transformed the car.

My only issue is I have a slight steering-shaft to header rub. I need to get under there and "massage" the headers a bit more with my BFH.

I hope that helps someone.
 

blownGTvert

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Very detailed write up, I enjoyed reading it. I'm suprised you had issues with the BMR parts. I've installed a lot of BMR parts and dont recall every having any major fitment issues.
 

DiMora

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Very detailed write up, I enjoyed reading it. I'm suprised you had issues with the BMR parts. I've installed a lot of BMR parts and dont recall every having any major fitment issues.

Their radiator support bracket is a new part, and their jig was indeed FUBAR as far as the positioning of the radiator support (rubber cushion) location was concerned. They are fixing it now.

The sway bar brackets are fine if you use OEM brackets or Hotchkiss; but NOT OK for the Steeda billet mounts. That part is not BMR's fault - with that said, the SWAY bar mounts I felt were a bit too narrow laterally as well.

Most importantly, I made it all work - and I do like the BMR parts a lot!
 

hockeygod

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Thanks for the great write up! I found it very useful installing my BMR k member and magnum xl . I did have a few fitment issues though. The BMR brace between the k member and the radiator support had awful figment. I had to drill out the holes and use larger washers to get it aligned. Also my magnum xl transmission is a very tight fit in the transmission tunnel. As the transmission. Stands I had to trim off some of the plastic tabs on the center console shifter under the boot because the new shift handle assembly under the boot rubbed the left side of the console in the 2010 model. What did you do for a solonoid lockout?
 

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