Ok, so what did I do wrong?

Mr. Q

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So, I'm using my HF DA with CG VSS to do some mild correcting and using CG yellow hex pad with about 5-10lbs pressure and then this happens. What did I do wrong? I saw some smoke and immediate stopped, accidentally lifted a but as it was slowing down and the middle came flying out. I'm new to this so I'm not sure what I did wrong. Ih, also at the time, there was no direct sunlight on the part of the car I was working on.
Also, I have these ugly spots, looks like hard water spots. Any hints as to how to get rid of them? Thanks
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Mr. Q

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Here's another picture of the spot, there are about 14 more like it. Dang, it's difficult to get on camera.
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Finished product :)
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Gab

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I'm curious about what you did wrong myself. I've recently purchased a polisher and CG products, and I'm a tick apprehensive about getting started. Is that pad old?
 

Mr. Q

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That was a brand new pad. I guess the only thing I can think of is that I was putting to much pressure on it?

Don't be afraid to try, I think with these machines, it's difficult to truly mess something up.
I've done tons of research so that i wouldn't mess up my paint.
For instance, I used a nanoskin prep mitt today instead of clay and I totally screwed up and marred the paint in one spot. That yellow pad fixed it up perfect.

I started with a wash/nanoskin prepp, vss, blacklight, seal, and lastly wax.
 
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01yellerCobra

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I've pushed pretty hard on some of my pads. I've never had one come apart. As clean as the break looks I wonder if it was just a defective pad?

I have the hard water spots on my paint as well. I think the only way to get rid of them 100% is to wet sand. I've done everything else short of sanding. They've lightened up, but I can still see them at the right angle.

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sdleo29

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For black paint you will probably need a wool with V32. This will create swirls however, but will totally remove the water spots. Then go to an orange pad with v34 and then finally probably even v36/38 with a yellow and then black pad. The pad ripped as you more than likely did not have enough product on the pad.

Your are pushing way too hard if you had smoke; let the machine do the work, you should not have to push that hard. There are tons of youtube videos on this both from CG and my favorite AMMONYC with Larry Kosilla.
 

nbk13nw

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If you hold the pad at an angle (not flat) wih pressurw and speed will cause thw pad to start to tear. Did you do the entire car with that pad? I mean did you start with that pad and use it until it separated?

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Mr. Q

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For black paint you will probably need a wool with V32. This will create swirls however, but will totally remove the water spots. Then go to an orange pad with v34 and then finally probably even v36/38 with a yellow and then black pad. The pad ripped as you more than likely did not have enough product on the pad.

Your are pushing way too hard if you had smoke; let the machine do the work, you should not have to push that hard. There are tons of youtube videos on this both from CG and my favorite AMMONYC with Larry Kosilla.

That is beyond my skill level at this point lol.
Interesting to note that I might have not had enough product. I'll take a look at the pad. Would it matter that I sprayed the pad with pad conditioner prior to starting?

I think, honestly, I want using the right compound. I don't think vss is adequate for etched and calcified water spots.


If you hold the pad at an angle (not flat) wih pressurw and speed will cause thw pad to start to tear. Did you do the entire car with that pad? I mean did you start with that pad and use it until it separated?

I did not use that pad for that long. I had started with orange pads, but it wasn't doing the job, so I switched to yellow. This separation happened like 5 minutes into the attempted correction. No angle, flat as can be, working a 2ft x 2ft area.


Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll look into those videos to see if I'm up to the challenge.

Also, the vss didn't seem to be the best compound to use for light scratches (rocks skipping the hood mainly). Any recommendations for a better compound to use?
 

stkjock

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Ammo Larry is crazy obsessive....
 

Bullitt 3309

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Look at Menzurna compounds and throw the CG stuff away. I love CG waxes and glazes, but not the compounds. FG400 with micro fiber should do the trick. But you other problem is the HF tool doesn't have the power to get the RIDS out. I stepped up to the flex a few years ago from a Porter Cable. Get a small bottle of Menzurna FG400 and some Lake country MF and see if the HF tool will drive it.
 

Mr. Q

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Look at Menzurna compounds and throw the CG stuff away. I love CG waxes and glazes, but not the compounds. FG400 with micro fiber should do the trick. But you other problem is the HF tool doesn't have the power to get the RIDS out. I stepped up to the flex a few years ago from a Porter Cable. Get a small bottle of Menzurna FG400 and some Lake country MF and see if the HF tool will drive it.

Lake country MF cutting pad, correct?

and what speed should i be cutting with? same as foam? spread on 1, dial up to 6 and let the machine do the work?
thanks for your advice!

i have yet to watch AMMONYC's videos. i'm getting on them as i have free time.
 

Mr. Q

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i can't take this ammo larry dude....he is ridiculous. he takes the wheels OFF the car in order to detail them? not only that, he has foam pads that he places the wheels on?
i can't even ahahahaha
he takes my 6-step process and turns it into a 19-step ordeal. omg.
 

LS1EATINPONY

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Larry aint THAT bad....... LOL... Ok maybe he is. But I do enjoy watching his stuff. He has alot of good info to help make your work better.
 

Bullitt 3309

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Lake country MF cutting pad, correct?

and what speed should i be cutting with? same as foam? spread on 1, dial up to 6 and let the machine do the work?
thanks for your advice!

i have yet to watch AMMONYC's videos. i'm getting on them as i have free time.

For Menzurna I spread it on 1, cut with 2 to 4 passes at 4.5 with some moderate pressure, then speed to six, two passes with only the weight of the machine. The Lake Country Hydro system is only 3 pads. A blue cutting, Orange polishing and red soft for jeweling or waxing. What I love about using a diminishing abrasive like Menzurna FG400 is I can use a less aggressive pad to correct. You will have to experiment to see what pad/polish combo your paint needs. The main thing is to use the least aggressive method to get results. For me, the orange pad with FG400 can be used as a 1 step with the Flex, not sure with the Harbor Freight machine.
 

Mr. Q

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I'm really liking how beautiful I can get the cars looking.
I'm going to get the mezuma compound along with mf pads.
Any advice on different glazes and sealants to use?
One thing I've noticed is how easily pollen sticks to the cars, ugh. I hate pollen
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redfirepearlgt

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Looking good Q. I just orderd a PC 7424XP and Meguiars 205 and 105 with meguiars pads from Autogeek. I've got a 99 F150 I am going to use as testing grounds. It's been washed three times maybe since I owned it. Obviously the first thing it will need is to be clay barred.

I have watched some videos on Autogeek. Of course this does not make me an expert but one thing they did point out was using the proper pressure with the buffer. To get the feel for it they suggest getting a bathroom scale out and using it to get you pressure feel as practice before starting. I'm planning on trying my hand at some 3000 grit wet sanding as well. Was shown by a local painter to add a little soap to the water spray bottle to provide some lubrication. Of course he made it look very easy, but again if I mess up the paint on my truck I am not worried about it. It's silver and just my hauling and to/from work vehicle.
 

Mr. Q

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In hindsight, I probably shouldn't have gone with my bmw as my testing grounds lol, but the water spots were so bad, I really just wanted to try anything to get rid of them.
Instead of a clay bar, I'm using the nanoskin surface prep mitt and I'm in love. It's so freaking easy to prep the surface! I've used clay bars in the past, and I'm no expert, but the mitt seemed to do the job just as well.

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Bullitt 3309

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After you fix the paint, you can either use a coating like Polish Angel or glaze/wax. The major difference is how often you will need to touch the paint. With a coating you can go up to two years without waxing.... I prefer waxing since its theraputic for me I love CG 50/50 or Petes 53 black pearl. For Glazes, i use Glossworkz Glaze.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Woo-HOO! Porter Cable 7424Xp kit arrives tomorrow. Can't wait. IT will probably rain for two months now. LOL!
 

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