Help Me With Ideas, Setup For a Few Mods

SpecOps13

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I have an 05 GT, Stick, 4.10 gears, Axle Backs with 1" cut outs at the front of the muffler to increase the sound output, Roush Under Drive Pulleys, JLT Series 3 - CAI, New Bama V2 Performance and Race Tunes Finally Working Right. 2 Step and WAT Box (Currently set to 4,000 RPM and Automatic Time).

The car runs good, when I slip the clutch to get rolling but Burns the tires off when using the 2 step even with TC on. Takes 6.762 to get to 20 MPH (GPS Reading) from there on up it's not bad.

Bigger Tires dropping ratio to 3.90 effective? How tall and wide will fit stock height and stock 5 spoke rims? or Lower the 2 Step and to what? Don't have the software yet but N2MB Racing is right down the street.

Suggestions to maximize my current Mod State??????

Thanks,
Dave
 

stkjock

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upgrade the LCA/UCA combo

get a drag radial - can't tell what width those rims are, guessing 8", which will limit your tire choices.

P275/45R18 Street S/S from MT or M&H Dragmaster
 

redfirepearlgt

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One thing I have learned over the years. Get the power you have to the ground before worrying about more power. More power + poor traction = poorer traction and still a slow car.Best of luck.
 
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skaarlaj

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Get the power you have to the ground before worrying about more power. More power + poor traction = poorer traction and still a slow car.

Agreed, I've never given horsepower numbers, big turbos, etc. an ounce of recognition, unless I see some tires, and suspension goodies on so said "fast car" when sizing up someone that wants to drag race. Long story short, If I see slicks or at least drag radials on a car in the other lane, I'll take them seriously. Otherwise spew those numbers to me all day long as I snore. hahaha!
 
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redfirepearlgt

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^^^ Yes sir -ree I've seen 1000 RWHP GT500's at the track running mid-low 11's because they are sitting on 20" rims with at best NT05-R Nittos. I won't run next to a high HP car with street tires on it. I will let them leave and then make my own pass. Too many of those idiots end up left of center or worse on occasion becoming pin ball wizards at mid track.
 

SpecOps13

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I'm with you guys. All the Horsepower and Torque in the world not getting to the ground but spinning tires don't mean Crap. I don't know how tall a tire can go on the back but think getting the gear back to effectively 3.90 would pull much harder (It Did on My 89, Effective 3.88 Ratio).

From a roll the G-Max's won't break loose even in 1st but fry from a 4 K launch?? I'm leaning toward another set of stock wheels (Love The 5 Spoke Design) and Street Slicks. I like to be the Horsepower Underdog and Blow the Doors Off the "Big Boys" with driving skill and parts that actually work together. Thanx for the replies.....
 

SpecOps13

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I can tune to the final ratio myself. Looking for what will clear stock height car with stock wheels and give better traction to launch and be street legal. I seldom do track, 70 mile drive to quarter mile. I use Android GPS Software to get times.
 

redfirepearlgt

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I can tune to the final ratio myself. Looking for what will clear stock height car with stock wheels and give better traction to launch and be street legal. I seldom do track, 70 mile drive to quarter mile. I use Android GPS Software to get times.

Had you clarified your intentions you could have saved me a lot of trouble. Sorry I won't be of help.
 
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SpecOps13

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Had you clarified your intentions you could have saved me a lot of trouble. Sorry I won't be of help.

Thought I was being clear in the first post. Sorry if I wasn't but I still appreciate your input. I agree with a lot of what you've said
Any info may come in handy in the future. Please don't give up on me I will get better.

Any opinion on Street Slicks would be of help. What effect will different size front and rear tires have on the Traction Control? Taller and
wider rear tires cause any trouble if run all the time on the rear?
 
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tj@steeda

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Specs,

We have some veteran drag racers on staff that can help point you in the right direction!

As they have stated, you need to get the power to the ground!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rum-FdoNuCc

Shoot me your email to [email protected] if you would like me to put you in contact with our one our sales professionals that can help get you the desired package you are looking for!

TJ
 

46addict

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Any opinion on Street Slicks would be of help. What effect will different size front and rear tires have on the Traction Control? Taller and
wider rear tires cause any trouble if run all the time on the rear?

Since you have a stick car you will be better off with the bias ply Mickey Thompson ET Street R than a radial tire. Keep in mind going to bias ply in the rear requires skinnies in the front to keep things stable. You may wish to get a dedicated set of wheels/tires for racing as tire wear will increase by ten fold.

There's no need to lower your WOT box RPM with these tires. You may end up wanting to raise the launch RPM with good tires, but that's assuming a well prepped track surface. On the street your mileage will vary.

With a 28" rear tire your 4.10s effectively become a 3.95. For an NA 4.6 you want to steepen the gear ratio, not the other way around. They aren't like the pushrod 5.0s and they like higher revs, so keeping the ratio closer to 4.10 might work out better. As said before you'll want to address the rear suspension. At a minimum you will want LCA/UCA and LCA relocation brackets will help too even if the car is not lowered.

As for staggered tire diameters, there are plenty of guys running 28" or 26" rear tires with a 27" front without ABS/traction control issues. So keep the variance within 2" and you'll be just fine.
 

RocketcarX

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Even with drag radials you will blow the tires off with s stick car on the street...ask me how I know.
Time to put money into suspension as stated by others.
BMR drag springs alone with improve your 60' dramatically.
I would look at their drag pack too, lower control arm relocation brackets and lower control arms, you are fine with the stock upper control arm and mount at this point in the game. For extra juice change the shocks and struts too.
Viking single adjustable rears and Strange struts up front.
 

SpecOps13

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I'm drawing a lot of good info from your replies. Want to make everything work with the
power levels I have now. 295 HP and 310 TQ at the wheels. So anything else you can think
of would be appreciated. Currently at 52 K Miles.

I've heard bad things about the 2 piece Driveshaft failing at high speed.
Should I be looking at a 1 piece Aluminum.

Thanks,
Dave
 
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stkjock

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1 pc alum shaft is a good upgrade - loses a lot of rotating weight from the driveline

the high speed issues were with the V6 shafts best that I recall.
 

SpecOps13

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1 pc alum shaft is a good upgrade - loses a lot of rotating weight from the driveline

the high speed issues were with the V6 shafts best that I recall.

Thanks: the driveshafts in the V6's must have been wimpier with 7.5 Differentials...... I thought it was all but also know it's a good upgrade to do.

Dave
 

SpecOps13

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Explanation of my thoughts:

I'm late getting into the game with another Mustang. Head on collision destroyed my 89 in 1997. It was totally built. They told me I was going to be in a wheelchair from then on. Took this long for me to recover and get up the courage to get in a small car again.

The 89 had an effective 3.88 gear with tires and was a 12 second run. That's where going to 3.90 came from.

I'm looking at all the options to make this 05 all it can be with the mods I have done.

WOT Box is part of the 2 step system. When you depress the clutch it holds the rpm but only when at wide open throttle until the shift is complete and the clutch is released (N2MB Racing) Almost like a power shift but safer. RPM doesn't rise after the clutch is depressed. Some have reported a .7 second gain in the quarter mile using the 2 Step, WAT BOX.

Most of my runs will be on the street as the 1/4 Mile Track is so far away. I'm trying to keep the car as close to a daily driver as I can. Not a track car by any means. Got to find a compromise on the rear tires and the pressure in them.

S197's Rule for their retro look as far as I'm concerned. I want a 14 GT but their price is still too high. I picked up this 05 GT with 47,000 miles about 3 years ago, $15,000 out the door. It was super clean and still is. 14's were about $25,000 + etc. at the time.

Thanks for your inputs,
Dave
 

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