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Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips Discuss Drag Racing strategies, Post your times, timeslips and driveline setups.

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Old 05-29-2017, 01:32 PM   #1
skaarlaj
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Default Another good day at the eighth!!

The car ran good this past Saturday with runs ranging from 7.093@98MPH to 7.190@96.5MPH , no need to mention the few runs I had in the mid-high sevens because of spin issues, lol. The DA started off at a pretty good 7400' at around 11AM, but didn't pay attention for the rest of the day until around 3.

For those times and speeds, do you think my 60' times of my 4 cleanest runs of 1.624-1.653 are pretty decent, or should I start looking at suspension. I'd hate to spend the time and money to have a clunky erector set under my car and not at least be well into the 1.5 range, maybe it's possible? It has had a few dead hook runs with nothing for suspension aside from a poly Steeda bushing in the rear housing for the upper control arm, and front sway bar removed.

I'm sort of thinking that most, if not all of my runs could be like my best runs currently with some suspension goodies, but I don't know if you'd improve on a dead hook run with suspension goodies unless there was traction issues prior. Any thoughts suggestions are very welcome.

Hopefully everyone had a good safe memorial day!!
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Last edited by skaarlaj; 05-29-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:20 PM   #2
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You will absolutely benefit from addressing the suspension, it is the only way to reduce your 60' consistently, that along with perhaps a gear change.
HOW much RPM are you launching at and "dead hooking"?
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:11 PM   #3
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You will absolutely benefit from addressing the suspension, it is the only way to reduce your 60' consistently, that along with perhaps a gear change.
HOW much RPM are you launching at and "dead hooking"?
Not as high as possible on a foot brake, maybe 3K. I just go by ear. I'm sure if I really tried to get it up above 4K before trading feet it'll probably spin pretty bad and get a 1.7-1.8 60' the way it sits.
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:18 PM   #4
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Not as high as possible on a foot brake, maybe 3K. I just go by ear. I'm sure if I really tried to get it up above 4K before trading feet it'll probably spin pretty bad and get a 1.7-1.8 60' the way it sits.
How can you know without trying?
The suspension is why it would spin if it did, spring and shocks play a huge roll. You need to transfer to hook, loosing the front sway bar let my car come up a lot more, but even that was after a spring change and the right shocks in the car.
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:19 PM   #5
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Dead hooking means a slow 60', best traction/acceleration comes with slippage, they say something like 25%.
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Old 05-30-2017, 08:38 AM   #6
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How can you know without trying?
The suspension is why it would spin if it did, spring and shocks play a huge roll. You need to transfer to hook, loosing the front sway bar let my car come up a lot more, but even that was after a spring change and the right shocks in the car.
I did try stalling up higher a few times and it did spin a little and ended up with 1.7x 60's. The car's actually transferring weight pretty well. I also have the front sway bar removed.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:07 PM   #7
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nice times, just keep chipping away at that 60
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:16 PM   #8
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I did try stalling up higher a few times and it did spin a little and ended up with 1.7x 60's. The car's actually transferring weight pretty well. I also have the front sway bar removed.
That would in my mind at least confirm the suspension is the next logical step. Lower control arm relocation brackets and better rear shocks would be a good start. Adjusting the pinion angle could add some bite too.
In the front, the adjustable Strange front struts were helpful also to my front end coming up, but I have to say the single biggest change in transfer for me happened with the BMR drag springs.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:34 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Sactown View Post
nice times, just keep chipping away at that 60
Thank you sir.

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Originally Posted by RocketcarX View Post
That would in my mind at least confirm the suspension is the next logical step. Lower control arm relocation brackets and better rear shocks would be a good start. Adjusting the pinion angle could add some bite too.
In the front, the adjustable Strange front struts were helpful also to my front end coming up, but I have to say the single biggest change in transfer for me happened with the BMR drag springs.
Thanks for the advice. So the relocation brackets will help even if I stay with the stock LCA's? I'm not against spending a little money for the LCA's just don't want them if they don't do much. Also the rear of my car has always sat a little higher than the front, and wouldn't mind a change there, so I might have to check out those springs.
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Pypes long-tubes, and off road X into MBRP axle-back mufflers.

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Old 05-31-2017, 11:13 AM   #10
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but I have to say the single biggest change in transfer for me happened with the BMR drag springs.
Love hearing that!

If you guys ever need any assistance with the set-up etc dont hesitate to give me a call to discuss.

Keep up the great work!
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:20 AM   #11
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Love hearing that!

If you guys ever need any assistance with the set-up etc dont hesitate to give me a call to discuss.

Keep up the great work!
Would adjustable shocks, rear drag springs, and LCA relocation brackets be a good place to start? Would I see gains? I really don't want the front of my car any lower than it already is, and it raises pretty nicely the way it sits, so I'd like to stick with the stock front springs if possible. So far just running a BMR radiator support / sway bar delete, Steeda housing poly bushings for the factory UCA.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skaarlaj View Post
Would adjustable shocks, rear drag springs, and LCA relocation brackets be a good place to start? Would I see gains? I really don't want the front of my car any lower than it already is, and it raises pretty nicely the way it sits, so I'd like to stick with the stock front springs if possible. So far just running a BMR radiator support / sway bar delete, Steeda housing poly bushings for the factory UCA.
With factory springs - this is the combo you want.

BMR Upper Control Arm Mount, lowest position.

Viking Double Adjustable Shocks.

From there we can dial it in. ;)
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:09 PM   #13
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You "could" do the BMR SP012 rear srpings....with the CAB005 LCA Brackets and of course the Viking B226 shocks to compliment as well.

But, I would try the first combo I mentioned above first.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:57 PM   #14
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You "could" do the BMR SP012 rear srpings....with the CAB005 LCA Brackets and of course the Viking B226 shocks to compliment as well.

But, I would try the first combo I mentioned above first.
Thank you sir, You'll probably see an order from me when / if I get the blessing to spend a little, lol
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:13 PM   #15
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Adjusting the pinion angle could add some bite too.
Is -1.5 to -2 still the rule of thumb for pinion angle on a car with aftermarket upper & lower control arms?
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:15 PM   #16
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Is -1.5 to -2 still the rule of thumb for pinion angle on a car with aftermarket upper & lower control arms?
I think it depends more on what kind of bushings you have. the more deflection / softer the bushing should require more angle so that it's near zero under full load and not binding the U-joint while under extreme loads.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:56 PM   #17
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Is -1.5 to -2 still the rule of thumb for pinion angle on a car with aftermarket upper & lower control arms?
I think a stick car is closer to -4. It's combo dependent. I'm not sure aftermarket arms affect it as much as relocation brackets do, as mentioned bushing choice factors in too. For instance the diff bushing for the upper arm, no matter what upper control arm you run, as long as that stock rubber bushing is in the top of the diff its going to deflect.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:20 AM   #18
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I think a stick car is closer to -4. It's combo dependent. I'm not sure aftermarket arms affect it as much as relocation brackets do, as mentioned bushing choice factors in too. For instance the diff bushing for the upper arm, no matter what upper control arm you run, as long as that stock rubber bushing is in the top of the diff its going to deflect.
Yeah, a stick car dumping the clutch with alot of traction will surely deflect any sort of bushings more than an auto imo.
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