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2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech Technical discussion about the 2005+ Ford Mustang GT 4.6L

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Old 05-28-2017, 05:00 PM   #41
BruceH
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This was a known problem with the 2005 - 6 fuel pump. If you still have the original fuel pump it's where I'd start.

FYI there was a recall or TSB on the fuel pump. Being a retired master mechanic I'd guess you already checked the recalls and tsbs but I'm posting it just in case.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:10 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone View Post
Is by chance your passenger side floor wet? If the cabin filter area gets plugged water builds up and drips over the sjb, causing all sorts of problems. Like pull up the carpet and check.
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This was a known problem with the 2005 - 6 fuel pump. If you still have the original fuel pump it's where I'd start.

FYI there was a recall or TSB on the fuel pump. Being a retired master mechanic I'd guess you already checked the recalls and tsbs but I'm posting it just in case.
I will check the passender floor but I don't think it is getting wet because we have had three months of rain and there is no condensation in the car. What is sjb?

I had the fuel pump out and the part number jives with the new part number that would be put in with the recall. Ford has no record of it being done though. That on top of no pressure drops or fuel trim spikes leads me to believe it is not fuel related.

Now, it has finally thrown a code, don't have the number in front of me but bank two converter has failed. I can see it in the 02 sensor readings, bank2 -2 sensor is switching almost as much as 2-1. What are your thoughts that this could be clogged or just stopped working? I do not have the adapter for pressure testing it.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:08 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickf View Post
What is sjb?
SJB = smart Junction Box

Passenger side foot well right side
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickf View Post
I will check the passender floor but I don't think it is getting wet because we have had three months of rain and there is no condensation in the car. What is sjb?

I had the fuel pump out and the part number jives with the new part number that would be put in with the recall. Ford has no record of it being done though. That on top of no pressure drops or fuel trim spikes leads me to believe it is not fuel related.

Now, it has finally thrown a code, don't have the number in front of me but bank two converter has failed. I can see it in the 02 sensor readings, bank2 -2 sensor is switching almost as much as 2-1. What are your thoughts that this could be clogged or just stopped working? I do not have the adapter for pressure testing it.
Please post the code. I'm not sure I understand correctly about the o2 switching indicating a failed cat. Or did I misinterpret the post?
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Old 06-09-2017, 06:33 PM   #45
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The code is a 430. Inefficiency of bank 2 converter. This is determined when the downstream o2 sensor starts switching voltages along with the upstream o2 sensor which tells the system that the cat is no longer storing oxygen.
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:30 PM   #46
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Ok, I did find the passenger floor was wet and the smaller white pluge on the door frame had corrosion in it. I plugged and unplugged many times with contact cleaner to clean up the pins but no change in the way it runs. Just another problem I will have to address. I have nor pulled the GEM module out yet but the main plug was clean, This water appears to be coming in the door seals. What exactly does that white plug control and also what does the GEM control? Does it have anything to do with the engine or the way it runs?
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:51 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceH View Post
This was a known problem with the 2005 - 6 fuel pump. If you still have the original fuel pump it's where I'd start.

FYI there was a recall or TSB on the fuel pump. Being a retired master mechanic I'd guess you already checked the recalls and tsbs but I'm posting it just in case.
Hmmm. Wonder if this is what causing my occasional issue. If I drive on the interstate with the air conditioner on (sometimes not) and hit an exit ramp and get to a stop sign, it will hesitate on take off sometimes. Like it dies quickly.
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:52 PM   #48
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Hmmm. Wonder if this is what causing my occasional issue. If I drive on the interstate with the air conditioner on (sometimes not) and hit an exit ramp and get to a stop sign, it will hesitate on take off sometimes. Like it dies quickly.
That is the exact thing that happened with mine.
Had pump replaced on TSB a few years back, never had problem again.
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Old 06-21-2017, 08:32 AM   #49
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Quote:
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That is the exact thing that happened with mine.
Had pump replaced on TSB a few years back, never had problem again.
This is good to know. Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:15 PM   #50
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I am a Ford Master Technician, and I just experienced this exact same issue with my 2006 GT mustang. It was the alternator, it had one bad diode which allowed interference causing the bucking/hesitation to occur on very light throttle between 1400-2200 RPM. I initially thought it may be a bad Cam Phaser because I monitored my VCT's and my passenger bank would spike when the problem occurred on the Ford IDS. Also you may find the pigtail for the alternator may need to be replaced, my wiring was brittle and I just rewired my pig tail when I replaced the alternator... one more thing, don't cheap out on the alternator. I did this and actually had 3 bad cheapo reproduction alternators in a row. I finally bucked up for the premium OE replacement and even with my discount put me back 300 USD. Gone 5000 miles with zero issues now.
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:54 PM   #51
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Thanks for the info, with all that I have done to try to track this down I am ready to try anything at this point but I want to be sure before dropping that kind of money on an alternator. How did you find the bad diode? I was driving today and it did not star to really act up until I had been driving for about a half hour. This seems to be the pattern, whatever it is it is taking that long to heat up and cause problems. today and yesterday it cut out completely at 60 MPH for just a second, just long enough for the rear to bang. So whatever it is sit has the capability of shutting down the engine for a millisecond. the only thing I can think of that can do that is a Crank sensor or PCM. The crank sensor is going to reach full temp within 5 minutes, same as the engine but the PCM, being up front and off to the side is going to take a while to soak in all that heat. As a Ford Tech, do you ever see problems like this with the PCM's?
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Old 07-06-2017, 05:22 PM   #52
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My issue was also heat soak related. It did however trip a check engine light eventually, code was a p0344 which is a cam position sensor code. The only issue I've seen are water leaks causing the SJB to become corroded and cause a gauntlet of issues, only one PCM I've personally seen have an issue and it was because the tech tried a PCM update on a tuned car and it whipped the PCM, the dealership ended up eating the cost... I am willing to bet you that it's your alternator and I would strongly recommend you bite the bullet and change it. Do remember that the dealership would have saved you a lot of money to begin with, especially if you took it to a dealer like the one I work at with a lot of really solid technicians...

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Old 07-06-2017, 07:02 PM   #53
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I checked the AC ripple on my alternator today and it is between 0 and .02. I don't think that is going to be the issue. A bad diode would show at least a volt or more of AC voltage on the charging line. I am not going to totally rule it out but that is not enough evidence to convince me to throw a 300 plus dollar alternator on there. I already had the SJB plugs all out and cleaned them up. They were a bit corroded but after cleaning there was no change at all.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:19 AM   #54
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I've seen alternators time and time again cause similar issues. You can always throw it on and return it if there's no change.
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Old 07-07-2017, 12:13 PM   #55
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Not sure where he could buy an alternator that will take a return. I've never seen any electrical part that you can return.
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Old 07-07-2017, 12:30 PM   #56
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Yea, not being an insider in a Ford dealership I do not have that option. Once I buy it it is mine unless it is bad.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:56 PM   #57
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There are used ones on fleabay for $50 shipped. A bit of a dice roll, but better than $300. If it fixes it, run it til it shoots craps and then buy a new one.
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Old 07-07-2017, 05:48 PM   #58
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FWIW usually the alt and battery have to be replaced at the same time.

I've used a parts store rebuilt alt without issue. It has a lifetime warranty and worked great.

Ford doesn't have a good track record with these alternators and I wouldn't put up the money for one from a Ford dealership. Why pay too much money for something that you already know fails? It makes no sense.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:12 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickf View Post
I checked the AC ripple on my alternator today and it is between 0 and .02. I don't think that is going to be the issue. A bad diode would show at least a volt or more of AC voltage on the charging line. I am not going to totally rule it out but that is not enough evidence to convince me to throw a 300 plus dollar alternator on there. I already had the SJB plugs all out and cleaned them up. They were a bit corroded but after cleaning there was no change at all.
When you test for AC ripple turn on headlights and a/c blower to high
to load the system down.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:42 PM   #60
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Little do a lot of people know but a LOT of the parts at Ford, and other dealerships, come from the local parts houses just like any other repair shop.
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