AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Happy to help.
The 11-14 and 15+ Coyotes and computers are different. I'm not sure what (if anything) you'll have to do differently.
AnotherS197GT's Coyote Swap: The Valve Dropper Special
- Thread starter AnotherS197GT
- Start date
Happy to help.
The 11-14 and 15+ Coyotes and computers are different. I'm not sure what (if anything) you'll have to do differently.
already got that figured out cams,and all the timing components from the 2011-2014 coyote
by any chance have you got your ac to work
i picked up a pbh ac bracket to use the 3v compressor so i wont have to mess with ac lines just wondering how hard is it to wire in to the pcm and if it will even work
also that pigtail you listed i was able to get it from the 2012 f150 is that all power source or did you have to pin in to the ecm also
if you dont mind i can come up to tampa one of these weekends and check out what all was done drinks on me
lol
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
IIRC, you need to pin in the 3 pins from the AC pressure transducer into the PCM and thats it. I did my AC a different way at first, then switched it to the 2011 style and had to "undo" a lot of the stuff I had done.
I'm no longer in Tampa, so unfortunately you coming to check the car out won't be an option anymore.
I'm no longer in Tampa, so unfortunately you coming to check the car out won't be an option anymore.
by any chance did you need this for the speedometer or it worked fine with out it, trying to purchase everything i need thank you so much for helping out
Ford Racing Speedometer Recalibration Device M-4209ADPT-AC
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Nope, I didn't need anything extra. We pinned in all the wiring we needed from the body/trans harnesses, then had the tune adjusted for the speedo.
thats awesome less money to spend
i see you also went with epas system i keep reading how you need to purchase M-3200-EPAS kit to not get all the problems with the shimmy in the front end due to not being able to change the steering mode is this true, or can i just pick up a rack from the yard and harness and get it wired in thank you for all the feedback i really appreciate it
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Shimmy typically only happens on 11-12 racks with upgraded a-arm bushings. My rack is a used rack from a 2014 and had no shimmy with aftermarket a-arms. Just be sure to get a 13-14 rack and you should be fine.
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
2 days away from the one year anniversary of the first drive! I've been daily driving this year for a year now and have put probably about 20-25K miles on the swap. I've gone on 2500 mile road trips with it and it's never skipped a beat. I'm super happy with the swap and how everything turned out. This car has been dead reliable after the swap and I couldn't ask for more from it. I've been toying with the idea of long tubes or a CJ set up this year, so maybe there will be more fun stuff happening down the road.
travelers
Senior Member
Congrats and it doesn't seem that long ago.
saleen07gt
forum member
Congrats on the reliability, well done. My coyote swap is 7 months old now, only problem I had was a failed Walbro pump.
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Over a year and still tinkering with it lol. I got the cruise control working tonight. It's not 100% working, but it works.
There are several things the Coyote PCM looks for when engaging the cruise control. There are two switches inside the Coyote brake pedal switch that trigger two PIDs, BOO1 and BOO2. Both must be off for the CC to activate. It also looks for clutch pedal position. For BOO1, I just have pin 13 on the body harness removed from the PCM. This is not particularly safe, since the brake pedal WILL NOT disengage the cruise control. For BOO2, I have pin 39 (3V, white wire, speed control deactivator) pinned into pin 46 on the Coyote PCM. This lets the system see that BOO2 is off when the clutch is up, and on when the clutch is depressed. This also lets me shut the cruise off with the clutch pedal. I am working to find a way to wire this that lets the brake deactivate the system, but I will have to play around with it some more. The only other "problem" I have is that sometimes the security light blinks at me when using the set buttons for the CC.
I don't use the CC frequently, but I do take a few long trips every year. It will be nice to have the CC working again for those. It gets tiring holding the accelerator for 1200+ miles!
There are several things the Coyote PCM looks for when engaging the cruise control. There are two switches inside the Coyote brake pedal switch that trigger two PIDs, BOO1 and BOO2. Both must be off for the CC to activate. It also looks for clutch pedal position. For BOO1, I just have pin 13 on the body harness removed from the PCM. This is not particularly safe, since the brake pedal WILL NOT disengage the cruise control. For BOO2, I have pin 39 (3V, white wire, speed control deactivator) pinned into pin 46 on the Coyote PCM. This lets the system see that BOO2 is off when the clutch is up, and on when the clutch is depressed. This also lets me shut the cruise off with the clutch pedal. I am working to find a way to wire this that lets the brake deactivate the system, but I will have to play around with it some more. The only other "problem" I have is that sometimes the security light blinks at me when using the set buttons for the CC.
I don't use the CC frequently, but I do take a few long trips every year. It will be nice to have the CC working again for those. It gets tiring holding the accelerator for 1200+ miles!
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Got BOO1 sorted tonight with some help from Manuel. I used a relay to change it from a normally open circuit to a normally closed circuit. The cruise is now deactivated with either the clutch pedal or the brake pedal. Here is a diagram for wiring in the relay:
Just cruisin' around... heh
Next on the agenda is converting to a Coyote fuel pump module and stock Coyote fuel pump. My walbro is working fine, but I prefer the reliability of OEM for stuff like that. Plus the walbro is loud as hell. I also wouldn't mind ditching the extra fuel line under the car and going back to a Ford fuel filter instead of the GM filter. I am also going to attempt to rid myself of the check fuel cap message I keep getting.
Just cruisin' around... heh
Next on the agenda is converting to a Coyote fuel pump module and stock Coyote fuel pump. My walbro is working fine, but I prefer the reliability of OEM for stuff like that. Plus the walbro is loud as hell. I also wouldn't mind ditching the extra fuel line under the car and going back to a Ford fuel filter instead of the GM filter. I am also going to attempt to rid myself of the check fuel cap message I keep getting.
Got BOO1 sorted tonight with some help from Manuel. I used a relay to change it from a normally open circuit to a normally closed circuit. The cruise is now deactivated with either the clutch pedal or the brake pedal. Here is a diagram for wiring in the relay:
Just cruisin' around... heh
Next on the agenda is converting to a Coyote fuel pump module and stock Coyote fuel pump. My walbro is working fine, but I prefer the reliability of OEM for stuff like that. Plus the walbro is loud as hell. I also wouldn't mind ditching the extra fuel line under the car and going back to a Ford fuel filter instead of the GM filter. I am also going to attempt to rid myself of the check fuel cap message I keep getting.[/QUOTE
thanks a lot for updating us on what your doing it really helps to have some one thats been down that road,
i just dropped in the engine and started my wiring its got me a little mind crazy, i did also get all data to help me with the wiring
i have a couple questions if you dont mind,
did you pick up a pigtail for the bottom pcm plug,
i can see where several body harness pins matches the coyote pcm did you pin in all of them also,
the trans harness has a plug witch is the c110 female connector that sits on the shock tower and the engine harness has the c146 witch is a male connector did you have to join any of these wires to both of these connectors or do they both get pinned in to the fuse box or pcm
i hope im not sounding confusing, and thank you so much for helping out
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
I robbed the 70 pin plug for the body harness off my 3V engine harness. I don't believe the pigtail is available separately from Ford.
I pinned all of the body harness stuff that I needed. To be honest, that question isn't really clear. Are there specific circuits that you're asking about?
C110 and C146 aren't related to each other at all. GENMON and GENCOM run through the trans harness and come out at C110, so you will have to pin wires from there into the PCM.
I pinned all of the body harness stuff that I needed. To be honest, that question isn't really clear. Are there specific circuits that you're asking about?
C110 and C146 aren't related to each other at all. GENMON and GENCOM run through the trans harness and come out at C110, so you will have to pin wires from there into the PCM.
not really a specific circuit i was just going to see what matches up on the electric wiring diagram for the body harness and coyote pcm and pin them in to the pigtail witch i have from a junk yard harness, im sorry for bieng confusing, from the body harness was all the wires pinned in or did you have wires that where not used,
also thank you for the info on the c110 looked on all data and figured it out
how about c146 any thing that you know for that connector would be very helpfull
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
There are some wires that are leftover and that you won't use with the Coyote PCM. The majority of them you will use. I think I had somewhere around 7 unused wires.
C146 feeds power to the injectors, COPs, Ti-VCT solenoids, and provides signal from the oil pressure switch.
thank you so much i really appreciate it
im getting pretty close to figuring it out 1 more question i have that i should of asked earlier is there any body harness wires that get pinned in to the other pcm pigtails or are all of them at the bottom pigtail,
i will try to post some pics of what i have done need to shrink the pics so the forum can except them
also waiting for my cpr turbo kit that is taken some time to get im going on 3 month so far hopefully soon
it seems like i can get a hold of you better on sunday i will do what i can for now and if i have any more questions i will post next sunday if you dont mind once again thank you so much
AnotherS197GT
Serial Valve Dropper
Happy to help!
I believe the only body harness wiring I have going to another connector is for the clutch pedal on the trans harness.
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