Weird questions on heat exchanger systems

slackinoff

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Hey I have been interested in the Gt450 kit for about a year, I have some off the wall questions on heat exchanger systems. This is all just a "what if" scenario. I am playing around with the idea of making my own heat exchanger setup.

1) Suppose a person runs a DOB kit (gt450), with just enough boost to make around 400 rwhp. What kind of IAT, pre-intercooler would they see? Eaton M112 from a GT500. Say 85 outside, sea level. Cruising down the highway 70 mph. Question answered via DOB article.

2) Suppose that person runs a 5 or 6 gallon tank in the rear tire sump, how long could you run with no heat exchanger before heating the water to the point timing starts getting pulled? air temp outside is 85, just cruising down the highway at 70mph. I think a better way to word my question is, would it be bad for the engine to idle and cruise with hot iat2 temps?

3) When you run a heat exchanger, does the coolant run right from the intercooler to the heat exchanger, then to the coolant tank, and finally back to the intercooler? Or does it run the opposite way? (tank to exchanger to intercooler) Answered in my link below.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9942

4) Have you ever seen a setup that uses a "non typical" heat exchanger? For example a small car radiator on a DOB kit with a large coolant tank? (5-6gallon) Would love to hear feedback on this, thinking about a small car rad with fans under the spare tire bump and a big tank in the spare tire trunk recess

Thank you, sorry for the weird questions. Just have some ideas I am playing around with.

Rm
 
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redfirepearlgt

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1.) DOB has a very nice H.E. setup for FI applications on the 3V. I upgraded on my Coyote before they had their 11+ Coyote option available. They can answer more specifics on that.

2.) Read their research article it will tell you what they saw as I recall on the IAT2 temps of several different setups and the order of efficiency. Most tunes start pulling timing on PD setups at 130-135 degrees F on the IAT2 temps.

3.) The typical air-water system places a recirculation pump between the res and the intake side of the H.E. The output goes then straight to the I.C., pulls heat, and then returns to the Res before then being pumped back through the H.E. There are variations of this but that is a common version. H.E.'s may also have cooling fans mounted on them as well to assist airflow across the coils.

4.) Several guys on here have played with multiple in line H.E.'s to obtain lower IAT2 temps. If you search you will find them.
 

slackinoff

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Ok cool thanks for that redfirepearlgt. I did some more reading and found answers for all my questions.

I found a better way to word my searches. The way I was searching was not pulling much info.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Ok cool thanks for that redfirepearlgt. I did some more reading and found answers for all my questions.

I found a better way to word my searches. The way I was searching was not pulling much info.

I suck at doing searches as well. I get lucky from time to time however. Never have really figured out the magic trick for a thorough list. It's usually sift through 200 hits or "search found nothing". LOL!
 

Department Of Boost

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2) Suppose that person runs a 5 or 6 gallon tank in the rear tire sump, how long could you run with no heat exchanger before heating the water to the point timing starts getting pulled? air temp outside is 85, just cruising down the highway at 70mph. I think a better way to word my question is, would it be bad for the engine to idle and cruise with hot iat2 temps?
No


4) Have you ever seen a setup that uses a "non typical" heat exchanger? For example a small car radiator on a DOB kit with a large coolant tank? (5-6gallon) Would love to hear feedback on this, thinking about a small car rad with fans under the spare tire bump and a big tank in the spare tire trunk recess

Heat exchangers are small car rads.:)

You could try mounting the HE in the back of the car, but I don't think you will get very good results. You're also adding additional restriction to the system so you will have slower water flow.

And IMO water tanks in the trunk are only useful if they have ice in them.
 

Department Of Boost

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Hey! no ice in mine, but I think the volume of water with a serious pump matters.

It won't hurt. And you will get a little extra cooling through the walls of the tank. But I think anyone would be hard pressed to measure a IAT difference.

Considering what your car is I imagine it will have ice in it at some point and be making some 1/4mi passes though. Or I at least hope so!:clap:
 

weather man

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It won't hurt. And you will get a little extra cooling through the walls of the tank. But I think anyone would be hard pressed to measure a IAT difference.

Considering what your car is I imagine it will have ice in it at some point and be making some 1/4mi passes though. Or I at least hope so!:clap:

DB Performance had a Boss 302 with a Roush supercharger kit. He actually saw my car and had Danny copy it, only with 1" lines. His lines actually run inside the car all the way. This car was the real deal gutted full cage, stand alone CPU road race car. The iat's were stupid low, as in it never got hot. He has a dial switch in the car that lets him control available engine power.

I am hoping my iats are a similar non-factor.
 

slackinoff

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Thanks for the info guys. Scored an early gt500 heat exchanger for $30 so that takes care of that. Looking for only 400 rwhp till a built engine is procured.

Rm
 

908ssp

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Single biggest improvement over whatever you might have at the moment is most likely a better pump. Most pumps under perform in the real world no company except DOB has even tested their pumps in real world conditions. Pumps perform best when they have a no resistance on the input side. So putting the pump after and below the reservoir is best for the pumps performance. The volume of water gives you bit more time to heat up the water but does not lower the water temperature after everything is warmed up. I ran my GT450 kit with 450hp and no mods to the motor and had no issues typically ran about 15 to 20 degrees over ambient. One extremely hot day I saw IAT up about 145 on a particularly long run. My current S550 runs the DOB GT550 kit and it has been improved significantly and consistently runs 10 degrees over ambient making 550 RWHP. 1.250" lines, huge HE, better pump [which could still be better], manifold isolated from engine heat, DOB has learned a lot about a problem most companies deny even exists.
 

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