86's VMP 1.9/Forged Build

Pentalab

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Per fedex tracking #..... you should be getting the blower today, thursday 8/21.
 

eighty6gt

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Hehehe. It must have followed the #1 to Winnipeg. It's out for delivery. I'll post some photos today if I have some time at work, which I probably will. I'm on vacation tomorrow, usually the last day before vacation everything goes haywire.
 

eighty6gt

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- 8/21/2014 - Thursday
10:56 am
In transit
THUNDER BAY, ON
6:15 am
On FedEx vehicle for delivery
SASKATOON, SK


Looks like it's made it from Saskatoon to Thunder Bay in 5 hours. Wonder if it will stop at the east coast or go on to Europe?
 

eighty6gt

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6iBkxNE.jpg


Arrived intact.
 

skwerl

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:party:

FYI, you have no need for an 8 rib setup. The lighter tvs1900 doesn't create enough drag to need the extra belt grip. You'll make damn near as much power as the tvs2300 without all the extra bulk or weight.
 

eighty6gt

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Yep, and I'm not even blowing its brains out. I have to call Justin eventually and get a few bits and pieces on the way, an elbow, pulley, PCV fitting. I've decided to buckle down and find some proper 3v pistons, stick with 9.8 CR, and run 94.

Does anyone know if the Roush tensioner has a belt range diagram on it? I was looking around and couldn't see it. My pulley diameter might go up by 6mm or so.
 

Pentalab

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Per vmp, the smaller 1900 pulleys should work good with your existing 90mm idler.
I read somewhere that there is supposed to be a range markings on the roush tensioner..and ( dunno here)...with eng off, should be between the two ranges marked on the end of the roush tensioner.
The 69mm pulley should do the trick.

With 9.8:1 CR....and 94 octane... LT's, no cats or high flow cats, 60/65/67 mm TB...it should provide bags of power. The 1900 blower eats 3.5 hp per psi of boost..... vs the 9 hp per psi for the M90....... so u will gain a bunch of hp /tq...just from the blower swap alone. You will have less load on the belt with the 1900 + 11 psi (38.5 hp) vs 8 psi and the M90. (72 hp). You will also have less load on the tensioner..and on bearing on the end of the crank. 72 - 38.5 = 33.5 free crank hp.

I'm glad it arrived intact.
 

eighty6gt

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Consulted with Justin, new 52 lb "Roush TVS" injectors ordered from gigantic ebay parts clearing house. I picked up my spare 38's from them last year. $$$$
 

eighty6gt

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What are everyone's thoughts on this:

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/5_0L_MODULAR_STROKER_SHORTBLOCK_p/m-6009-a46x.htm

So far I'm looking at $800 for pistons, about $200 for rods, about $2000 in machining (I wish it were $1000 but that's a dream...) not counting my time. I keep theorizing a terrible turnaround. It's difficult to get things done where I live, and I don't think gapping rings at 0 degrees C in march is a really great idea. The deciding factor will be when I talk to the crusty machine shop guy. If I don't get a good impression, I'd rather just have a complete short block shipped here than start shipping my bare block across the country.

I would delay the build by a few months, spend some extra money, but I'd have more cubic inches and I'm reasonably sure this would work for what would be 9-11 psi. I could get the job done in a few days instead of who knows how long.

Downsides are I'd need a flywheel. That's about it.
 
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eighty6gt

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Be damned if I didn't talk to the nicest guy on the planet earth about my engine, 2 hours away. Knew what torque plates were (I was told nobody did that here!,) gave me pricing, can get pistons, knows what rings to use and the cylinder finishes required, what RA for MLS gaskets, can do a multi angle valve job on the heads, etc, etc...

Everything together, with possibly not required machine work like decking and polishing the crank, and the valve job, $1515. So add a bunch on and I'm right at the $2000.

I'm doing it!

Exciting.
 

skwerl

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I was going to use an Aluminator short block before I found a deal on a JDM 302e. Good choice, check with Steve at Tasca first though. Some guys are all about building their own short block but no way would I do it when I can buy one already assembled and ready to bolt together.
 

eighty6gt

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Reading other threads some unanswerable questions have come up.

Should I go with a stock GT500 60mm dual TB, or spring an extra 500 bones for the VMP dual 67, with a 69mm pulley and 10-12 psi? I have no power goal in mind but if I'm giving up something like 20 rwhp I would think of going ahead.

Livernois mentioned limiters for a supercharged car regardless of cam/spring. I may have misread their comment. It would be super easy to put limiters in during the build. I'm planning on keeping the stock heads and cams.

EDIT: Lito piped in here:

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2105702&postcount=17
 
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lito

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For that power level I would do the limiters (not the springs), specially depending on what pistons you end using, if getting 2v ones you MUST use them. Get the livernois ones, they are cheaper, simpler to install and work good. Is a safety feature.

On the TB side, you will probably gain 1psi while keeping the same pulley I would guess, it depends on how restrictive the elbow of that SC is, never expect big gains out of this mods on small elbows/SCs.
 

eighty6gt

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Thanks, Lito. The 10 degree limiters as discussed in the other thread? As long as I don't have it backwards they limit retard to 10, while the more typical units limit it to 20.

On the 2V piston front I'm also vacillating. http://www.jepistons.com/Products/271106.aspx Something like these would net 10.4 CR, should be fine with 94 octane, possibly 91. If I want to keep stock compression of 9.8 or so it seems I need 3V pistons.

Rings... machinist likes steel for turbo/blower apps. Hellfire or Total Seal AP.
 
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lito

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I would never raise the CR from stock if you plan to use pump gas and those levels of boost, really. A little lower would work really well for 91 or close.
 

Livernois Motorsports

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The limiters are a good idea for a blower application. Keep in mind if we are talking about a car with higher miles on it or its an older model. You can put new O.E. replacement springs on the vehicle for peace of mind. New valve springs ALWAYS make more power!
 

eighty6gt

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New springs, valve seals, and locks went on the parts list. I'll disassemble and clean the heads, might clean up the ports slightly if there are any bad casting shifts. A valve job isn't very expensive, and the guides can get checked.

I have a question for those more experienced, and I searched for "new clutch" and "new build.." but good luck with that - how do I break in an engine with Total Seal AP steel rings when you can't beat on a Mach 400 for 500 miles? Installing the new engine with the existing clutch is the obvious answer, but what a pain. When I built my last engine a FRPP HD went in, but that thing made maybe 320 lb-ft. This engine will make 200 more than that - might be a bit of a strain to handle 3rd gear pulls seating the rings a few minutes after the first start up.

I think I'll gamble and go with the new parts. Worst case Ontario I glaze the new disc a bit, but that either straightens itself out or I'm in for exactly the same amount of work.
 
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Livernois Motorsports

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The rings with the appropriate cylinder finish will break in pretty quick. (make sure you use your head if you have a vac pump or a blower)The clutch need to heat cycle. This sounds like the "should I break in a new engine with coated headers argument" Of-course the answer is no. Like all of us someone has gotten away with it while others are not so lucky. Like you mentioned the worst thing that can happen is to have to install another disk.
 

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