86's VMP 1.9/Forged Build

eighty6gt

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Engraving = stress risers!

I bought the springs new from the local speed shop. $365, and they didn't charge me freight, that was very nice of them!!!

balmy weather coming,time to get after getting the fluids out of the car, making a big pile of removed parts.
 
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eighty6gt

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What a blistering pace, blowing DOB out of the water!

My youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/eighty6gt

Garage is streaming live when I'm working out there, I think you subscribe and it sends a notification email. Super, super boring. Also check out my sriracha mcgangbang video for some quick instructions on how to make a cheap, healthy snack to keep you going during these long shifts pulling wrenches.

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eighty6gt

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Busy designing a tool to pull the hub off of my 1.9 blower drive shaft. Seal is failing. I had to replace the seal on my M90 as well when the front bearing failed, and sleeve the damn drive shaft which was a magic act.

Maybe turbochargers aren't so bad after all?
 

skwerl

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Have you spoken with Justin about it? He may have some insight.

I thought Roush blowers were good for 100K miles?
 

eighty6gt

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"i'm told its very hard to get that style of hub off, but it does press on like everything else." - Justin

I have his pulley removal and install tool for the press on pulleys - there is a blurb in the instructions about heating the hub to and internal temp of 180F, but do not overcook! Remove from heat and shaft, apply seasoning and enjoy.

The VMP pulley tool is not designed to pull this hub, but I do have at least two angular contact bearings of a useful diameter, and am able to get any sort of fine threaded material I need to make tools. I will probably have a substantial donut machined with 6 holes in it so I can bolt it to the hub and pull it off, and as far as I recall I may be able to simply press it on with the drive shaft backed up on the rear side.

The beautiful thing is I already have an SKF fluoroelastomer seal in my M90, hoping I can get the part # and not pay $50 from the blower shops for a common $11 item.
 

eighty6gt

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Sounds like Jon Bond will fix this thing for around *$200 including the ride.

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eighty6gt

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Yeah. I updated the price as I figure they'll want to replace all of the bearings, it's a one way trip as you drive the shaft out with only the bearing as a support (brinelling,) and they need to inspect it all. Also if they wad up the hub they're responsible for finding another one (nooope.)

Wheels go to the tire shop tomorrow to strip the rubber then it's a $150 trip down to california. http://www.ericvaughnmachine.com/ - Eric says he'll straighten them up and widen them to 10" for $600. Not cheap, but there are no good wheels out there.
 

eighty6gt

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Front main leaking like a sieve.
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Parts pile getting willy nilly
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Not many bolts left to push before I try to tip this thing out of here and have the shop crane hit the ceiling before I can get the trans out of the engine bay.
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Better to be breaking header studs now than when it's all together. I think Brian said these are $35 each @ tasca? ;) :whistle1:
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Lito could work at the spca, he's saved my cats.
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Nice crud in the overflow tank. This didn't appear until I changed the factory coolant (6 years on it,) and added purple ice. Hopefully cleaning everything up and installing new coolant w/distilled water and no purp fixes this.
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Coolant a gross shade of dehydrated piss brown.
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skwerl

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You can match up those exhaust manifold studs at NAPA. I think I even had the parts number listed in my build thread but I'm not digging that far back to find it.
 

eighty6gt

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Yeah, I'm going to replace all of them. My napa isn't the same as yours, anyway.
 

eighty6gt

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Should I be looking at getting a water pump for this engine? I hadn't really considered it, but maybe they're only good for 100k miles or something. I've never really seen anyone have one fail or replace one.
 

eighty6gt

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OK I'll just get a pump.

I'm lucky I can go look at my live stream video that I recorded to see if it was 1 or 2 hours that I tried to pull the trans off of the engine without butchering something. I ended up getting enough separation that I could drive a chisel in between the steel plate and the bellhousing - the lhs dowel pin was basically seized. It's in the bellhousing now, will have to heat that up and get it out of there, I'm sure it's a part that's only serviced as a complete $5,000 engine block through ford (DISCONTINUED!). Even though it's full on siberia conditions in the garage (0C, 1/4" of meltwater and glycol on the floor,) I was still dripping sweat fighting with that trans. I'm really glad I didn't try to take it off the car.

Used the 1 ton stick out on the hoist (less height/radius, more capacity) and had 1/4" of clearance between the oil pan and the rad support, didn't have to drop the chassis down off of the stands. Whew. Leveller looks like crap but was strong enough.

OEM 80,000+ mile clutch/fly/pp look very nice.

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eighty6gt

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Customized a $85 3 jaw puller with a grinder, now have precision tool for removing factory damper. I think my new one has holes in it, will make a custom plate with a nut and bolts to push it off should the need arise.

I have the pan and front cover off, I've decided what I'm doing for a valve spring compressor (freedom,) ordering it tomorrow, so I'm waiting on that before I pull the heads. I guess I'll yank the windage tray and loosen up the rod bolts.

Had to customize this plate on the engine stand.

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I don't exactly know how people reuse these.
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Good flow, some block sanding required.
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Cold weather kills lip seals, no groove in damper hub.

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Engine is extraordinarily clean inside. Dust landing on it now.
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Bill220

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Damn man, you are one brave soul. Quite creative, too! I'd never have the balls to do what you're doing.
 

eighty6gt

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Thanks, Bill. Everything is straightforward and more simple than it seems, the odd things catch you out and take a whole bunch of extra time but vehicles are engineered for ease of assembly and the use of as few parts as possible.

Everything is dirty from 8 years of use, I think a lot of my time is going to be spent cleaning everything from engine parts to the car body to the wiring harness loom.
 

46addict

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Should I be looking at getting a water pump for this engine? I hadn't really considered it, but maybe they're only good for 100k miles or something. I've never really seen anyone have one fail or replace one.

It took 20 years and 120k miles for the water pump seal in my 4.6 Cougar to go bad. Knowing your luck with seals (front main, blower seal, crank damper groove), it was probably a good idea to get a new pump ;)

Also is that a manifold gasket broken in half??
 

eighty6gt

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Nah, there are just two of them. Good point on the water pump seal.
 

46addict

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I think I'm going to need a GT500 fuel pump setup. The 405 I have in there from S&H is good for 600 crank... the pulley I want to use will put me within spitting distance, without the cams. Nice realization for a monday - another $1000. :D

At least I won't need them until later in the year. The FRPP guy said, "700 is a good number." I'll have some headroom.

Is that the same as the Walbro 405? There's a member here who made 680 wheel with that pump and a BAP. I think that put him at 90% fuel pump DC with ID1000s so he had a bit of headroom too.

Are you doing anything with the lash adjusters and followers or any of the timing components?
 

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