Checking a rear end?

themoose06

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Hey guys found someone on craigslist selling a 7.5 rear with a posi diff. He says its a Ford Bronco ii diff, american muscle used to carry it and it was made by FRPP. Can anyone confirm this? I asked the guy several times to upload a short video of the some quick wheel spin, or rotating the rear wheels on a lift. He never made one, but had originally offered to show me in person. Anyways, how do I inspect the rear? I know to look for straight axles, no leaks, what else? Thanks!
 

oldVOR

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If you're thinking of going to a V8 as per your other thread, I'd recommend going the route of an 8.8 rear end. Sourcing a salvage or auction '05-'07 GT would give you everything you need from the engine to the rear axle as well as the ECU, wiring, etc.
 

themoose06

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If you're thinking of going to a V8 as per your other thread, I'd recommend going the route of an 8.8 rear end. Sourcing a salvage or auction '05-'07 GT would give you everything you need from the engine to the rear axle as well as the ECU, wiring, etc.

Guys selling it for 200, I have a guy buying mine for 75 plus some stripes. 125 for a posi, even if temporary would be worth it for me. Only stangs the yards near me have are base model v6s
 

JimC

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What are you planning to put that Bronco rear end in? It won't fit a Mustang.

As far as yards with "base Mustangs" -- what year? Every Mustang since 2011 has the 8.8 rear end.
 

themoose06

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Its a 7.5 rear from a mustang, but he mentioned the posi diff was used in a bronco kit or something. Apparently AM used to carry it. Think I'll call them and check. Around me all I've seen are base 05-09s, I didnt know the 10GTs/11up alls rear would fit an 05-09, i'll go look again.
 

JimC

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Its a 7.5 rear from a mustang, but he mentioned the posi diff was used in a bronco kit or something. Apparently AM used to carry it. Think I'll call them and check. Around me all I've seen are base 05-09s, I didnt know the 10GTs/11up alls rear would fit an 05-09, i'll go look again.

That rear end might be from a Mustang, but what year? If it fit a Bronco then it isn't likely a 2005-10 Mustang with the 3 link suspension.
 

themoose06

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That rear end might be from a Mustang, but what year? If it fit a Bronco then it isn't likely a 2005-10 Mustang with the 3 link suspension.

He was refering to the differential as a bronco ii diff. Sorry for the confusement. It's coming off an 05-09v6, I'll go check it out/ buy it tomorrow
 

JimC

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Okay, this is very confusing. If all you are buying is the diff, then why do you want to inspect the axle tubes and such? And if someone is buying your rear end for $75 plus some stripes, what will you be putting the diff in?
 

themoose06

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Damnit lol.
I'm buying the complete rear end, with what i'm guessing is the old ford racing tlok for the 7.5, its all installed, all ready to go. I don't know what the guy meant when he said bronco ii.
I'm selling my stock, current rear end to a guy for 75$ and the stripes. I'm buying the entire rear end, I want to know what I should look at and inspect on the new rear.
 

JimC

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A rear end that fits a Bronco will not fit your Mustang. Different mounting points, different length. A rear end has to be sized properly for your car and have the correct width, and correct mount. A 4 link or leaf spring rear end won't mount. A wider rear end for a Bronco won't fit, it will be too wide.

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cbass

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A rear end that fits a Bronco will not fit your Mustang. Different mounting points, different length. A rear end has to be sized properly for your car and have the correct width, and correct mount. A 4 link or leaf spring rear end won't mount. A wider rear end for a Bronco won't fit, it will be too wide.

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I'm just guessing here... but when the guy said diff, he might have meant the differential, not the whole housing. IIRC, broncos came with 7.5 axles in them, and since the center sections are the same, so the guts from the bronco just might be an upgrade for the one-wheel-peel mustang differential.
 

oldVOR

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I think what the OP is stating is that he is going to buy an S197 axle assembly that someone has installed a Bronco limited slip differential into and wants to know how to check said axle assembly/differential to ensure it's OK.

Things to look for:
Both axles spin the same direction when the pinion is rotated
Neither axle can be held still while the pinion is rotated
If the fluid hasn't been changed recently, drain it and check for any metal
While the cover is off, check for any broken ring or pinion gear teeth and ensure all the ring bolts are present
Inspect axles to ensure there isn't any gear lube leaking past the axle seals
Check to see how freely the axles rotate and listen for bearing noise (hard to do at hand speeds)
 

themoose06

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Oh my this got really understood.
I bought the whole rear housing. It's a 7.5 05 rear with the Ford Racing Tlok diff and royal purp gear oil. The guy upgraded to a 8.8, gave him 200, I have a guy buying my stock 7.5 whole assembly for 75 and racing stripes. So in total a Tlok and two wheel burnouts cost me 125. I didn't see it as a waste. I dont know why the seller brought up bronco ii's in our text conversation.

Texasblownv8- eh the way I see it, a GT upgrade wouldn't happen for a year or two, for 125 I can have some added fun and better grip, why not? If I was upgrading within a few months then yeah, it'd be pointless. Also is more mechanic experience for me.

oldVOR understood what I meant, I wanted a sort of check list of what to look for when inspecting the housing and assembly, I didn't pop it open, talked to the guy for an hour or so, I trust its solid. Both sides move the same way.

cBass, yes, when I mentioned diff I meant differential, i'm guessing the seller was saying the differential inside the 7.5 was bronco ii compatible or something along those lines

JimC the differential might have been bronco ii compatible, the seller was willing to pull the differential out and sell it alone, possibly to someone wanting one in a bronco ii. I saw the 05 v6 stang that the diff came out of, he's making some sorta interesting mustang with an 8.8 rear, ford explorer engine, don't remember what trans.

Thanks for all the replies though, I shoulda posted up some pics of what I was buying/selling/talking about. The rear seems set, i'll see for sure when I install on Wed morning. Any tips or tricks with changing out the rear?
 

TexasBlownV8

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First of all, BE SAFE, and support the car with multiple jack stands, and prevent the car from rolling. Work on a flat surface if possible.

Tips:

*** use loctite on the driveshaft bolts, and tighten ALL bolts to spec ***

- remove/loosen the panhard bar while the car sits on its full weight; remove the driver side bolt and larger passenger side bolt, and loosen the upper nut on the passenger side but you dont have to remove it. Get the panhard loose at least on one side before raising the car, because once you raise it, it'll put tension on the panhard bar, making it hard to remove.

Generally, removing the rear end is pretty simple.
After removing the panhard bar (on one end at least), raise the car and support it properly. Remove the back tires, remove the brakes, caliper brackets, abs sensor if you have it, and rotors (assuming they all are swapping over to the other rear end). Disconnect the 4 driveshaft bolts at the rear-end only (do not need to remove the driveshaft); you'll need a 12-point 12mm box-end or socket (or both!); the bolts will be tight so you may have to hold the driveshaft from spinning with a bar or screwdriver or something.
Use a jack under the pumpkin to raise the rear end, lifting it up some but not so much as to raise up the car. Remove the UCA nut (passenger side above the pumpkin), using a 21mm deep socket or similar 21mm wrench. Once the nut is loose, raise or lower the rear end to take some of the tension off the UCA bolt, but the spring-loaded UCA will want to pull upward, making it tricky to get the bolt out; you can tap it gently but dont drive it out if under a lot of tension as it can damage the threads.
Once the UCA bolt is out, loosen the shock bottom nuts and remove the bolts (15mm). Lower the rear end a little more, pull the springs out. Remove the 2 LCA bolts (18mm). That's it, it'll come out!

Put the other rear end back in opposite: get the LCA bolts in place loosely, put the springs in, get it raised up and get the UCA bolt in (which will be a bitch with the stock UCA); connect the shock bolts. Tighten the LCA bolts and UCA nut to 129 ft-lbs; shock bolts to 75 ft-lbs.
You should be able to lower the rear end now, which will make connecting the driveshaft easier. The driveshaft may have to be pushed inward (compressed) or pulled out, to fit to the flange.
IMPORTANT: use blue or red loctite on the driveshaft bolts, tighten to 85 ft-lbs. (you don't want them to come loose, which w/o loctite, they can come loose!).
Reinstall brakes (rotor, caliper bracket, pads and calipers), and abs sensor (if present).
You can put the panhard bar back in if you raise up the rear end pumpkin, so the holes line up; get the driver side end in first, or you'll be redoing it ;) Tighten panhard large bolts to 129 ft-lbs.
I left out the rear sway bar, but remove/re-install it as appropriate.

Use blue loctite on UCA, LCA, shock, panhard bar, and brake caliper bolts/nuts.

Make sure you have the right tools before getting started. Good luck :)
 

themoose06

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First of all, BE SAFE, and support the car with multiple jack stands, and prevent the car from rolling. Work on a flat surface if possible.

Tips:

*** use loctite on the driveshaft bolts, and tighten ALL bolts to spec ***

- remove/loosen the panhard bar while the car sits on its full weight; remove the driver side bolt and larger passenger side bolt, and loosen the upper nut on the passenger side but you dont have to remove it. Get the panhard loose at least on one side before raising the car, because once you raise it, it'll put tension on the panhard bar, making it hard to remove.

Generally, removing the rear end is pretty simple.
After removing the panhard bar (on one end at least), raise the car and support it properly. Remove the back tires, remove the brakes, caliper brackets, abs sensor if you have it, and rotors (assuming they all are swapping over to the other rear end). Disconnect the 4 driveshaft bolts at the rear-end only (do not need to remove the driveshaft); you'll need a 12-point 12mm box-end or socket (or both!); the bolts will be tight so you may have to hold the driveshaft from spinning with a bar or screwdriver or something.
Use a jack under the pumpkin to raise the rear end, lifting it up some but not so much as to raise up the car. Remove the UCA nut (passenger side above the pumpkin), using a 21mm deep socket or similar 21mm wrench. Once the nut is loose, raise or lower the rear end to take some of the tension off the UCA bolt, but the spring-loaded UCA will want to pull upward, making it tricky to get the bolt out; you can tap it gently but dont drive it out if under a lot of tension as it can damage the threads.
Once the UCA bolt is out, loosen the shock bottom nuts and remove the bolts (15mm). Lower the rear end a little more, pull the springs out. Remove the 2 LCA bolts (18mm). That's it, it'll come out!

Put the other rear end back in opposite: get the LCA bolts in place loosely, put the springs in, get it raised up and get the UCA bolt in (which will be a bitch with the stock UCA); connect the shock bolts. Tighten the LCA bolts and UCA nut to 129 ft-lbs; shock bolts to 75 ft-lbs.
You should be able to lower the rear end now, which will make connecting the driveshaft easier. The driveshaft may have to be pushed inward (compressed) or pulled out, to fit to the flange.
IMPORTANT: use blue or red loctite on the driveshaft bolts, tighten to 85 ft-lbs. (you don't want them to come loose, which w/o loctite, they can come loose!).
Reinstall brakes (rotor, caliper bracket, pads and calipers), and abs sensor (if present).
You can put the panhard bar back in if you raise up the rear end pumpkin, so the holes line up; get the driver side end in first, or you'll be redoing it ;) Tighten panhard large bolts to 129 ft-lbs.
I left out the rear sway bar, but remove/re-install it as appropriate.

Use blue loctite on UCA, LCA, shock, panhard bar, and brake caliper bolts/nuts.

Make sure you have the right tools before getting started. Good luck :)

Great! This is perfect, I'll be swapping them out tomorrow morning with my stepdad, This will come in handy. I just needed to make sure there weren't any little specifics things to do or not to do. I'll have this writeup out tomorrow mornin when we do the work, and will drop a few photos of the swap in here once its all done. Thanks again!
 

JimC

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Okay, makes sense now. What you posted had me confused with the Bronco reference

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TexasBlownV8

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Okay, makes sense now. What you posted had me confused with the Bronco reference

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Yeah, me too, Jim. The 7.5 t-loc did ring a about 'compatible with Bronco II', back in the days when I was looking for one.
 

themoose06

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Sorry about that, the guy said brono ii when I asked him what kinda diff it was. I was just as confused. Pretty sure it must be compatible and that' why the seller mentioned it.
 

themoose06

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Swap went great. Took about 4.5 hours including a test drive, run to autozone, and some talking. The guide was a great reference, love having both those wheels able to break free. Its the way these cars are supposed to be. Plus the grip is great. Now you actually have to try to break the rear free. Thanks for all the help!
 

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