5C worked great!!

Well just to re-cap my first totally stock outing, My 2011 auto went 9.2-9.4 at 78.5-80.3 mph in the eighth on the 28" tall M&H drag radials.

Today in similar air between "8500, and 9000'" with the 5C converter and in the middle of tuning, she ran from and 8.53-8.74 at 79.9-80.5mph in the eighth, but this was on my 15" SVE's wearing 28" tall Hoosier QTP's, So roughly went from an average of a 9.3, to a 8.6 with just a loose converter, tuning, and traction. Although with the stock "super tight" converter on my first outing, I seriously probably would've done just as well on the stock street tires lol.

Either way I'm happy, and with decent results like that, I think I may just start throwing some power at her!!!

I'm still amazed that my old white MT-82 car ran this quick with no tune, the very same drag radials, and 3.90 gears, but what an inconsistent ride that was. Waiting for something to break with these Hoosiers on there also wasn't very fun at all.

7 tenths with the converter & tuning in the 1/8 mile is a big improvement! Congrats!!!

I'm still trying to decide on exhaust modifications for next spring or Circle D 2c or 3c 258mm stall Brian has spec'd for my setup.

Looks like you are knocking some serious time off of the ET. Personally and likely because I never stepped foot on a track until I was in my early 40's I find myself enjoying the "thoughtlessness" of having an auto. The only things I have to concern myself with (other than sleeping on the line) is shut off traction control and slap it in D before staging right after the burn out. I use manual select-a-shift for my burn outs.

redfirepearlgt said:

I'm still trying to decide on exhaust modifications for next spring or Circle D 2c or 3c 258mm stall Brian has spec'd for my setup.

Looks like you are knocking some serious time off of the ET. Personally and likely because I never stepped foot on a track until I was in my early 40's I find myself enjoying the "thoughtlessness" of having an auto. The only things I have to concern myself with (other than sleeping on the line) is shut off traction control and slap it in D before staging right after the burn out. I use manual select-a-shift for my burn outs.

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One of the things I'm liking about Mid-Atlantic's tuning is usually he sends you the tune he wants you to try and log, and he'll give the same exact tune seperately with all the "nannies" off so you don't have to go through the sequence of turning off that junk every time you start your car throughout the day at the track. I'm sure any tuner can do this, but it does make it alot easier, he also turns off the ABS in case you have different height tires in the back compared to the front for the "race" tune.

As far as the converter goes, I cannot imagine having minimal gains with any sort of performance application, except maybe a positive displacement blower. Even then, a perfectly stalled auto will be better than factory, but probably not as drastically.

My dilema with the auto vs manual is definitely the launch, I really felt on was on the cusp of breaking stuff with my manual on my Quick time pros at the track, and still wasn't 60 footing better than 2 seconds. I know suspension upgrades can and will help this out but I'm now nicely into the 1.8's, and it's so smooth with the auto, that I really don't see a reason to do anything with the rear suspension any time soon. Maybe with a blower, or a trans-brake that shocks the drive-train might mandate some better suspension parts, but people ALOT faster than me are getting these autos to really boogie on the stock suspension. Not that I have a problem spending money where it needs spent, but it's much funner spending money on "power parts".

Five Oh Brian said:

7 tenths with the converter & tuning in the 1/8 mile is a big improvement! Congrats!!!

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Thanks Brian, your success with your car on this forum has alot to do with my parts path taken so far, with my power deficit because of my horrible DA conditions, I may just go against the whole world one of these days and put some steep gears in this thing as I'm barely getting into 3rd gear right at the 1/8th mile traps at around 80mph.

Whats with the ABS concern? I have been running 26.97" wheels in the back and 27.25" tires up front on both my 13 and the current 14. Did so on the stock tunes on each for quite some time. Could you elaborate on this in the event something pops up? Thanks.

redfirepearlgt said:

Whats with the ABS concern? I have been running 26.97" wheels in the back and 27.25" tires up front on both my 13 and the current 14. Did so on the stock tunes on each for quite some time. Could you elaborate on this in the event something pops up? Thanks.

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I haven't had any issues with this car, but I did on an older 04 Cobra, I ran 28" tall drag radials, and the stock 26" tall stock wheels/tires on the front and the abs light was always lit up., I really don't think it'll hurt anything, and if I do get front runners, I'll try to get a similar height to what I'm running on the back, probably a non issue?

When The abs light is "on" I think you won't get that weird feed-back through your brake pedal if one of your tires locks up, and you'll sort of be "on your own" without the aid of your abs system, otherwise brakes work the same I think, hahaha

skaarlaj said:

I haven't had any issues with this car, but I did on an older 04 Cobra, I ran 28" tall drag radials, and the stock 26" tall stock wheels/tires on the front and the abs light was always lit up., I really don't think it'll hurt anything, and if I do get front runners, I'll try to get a similar height to what I'm running on the back, probably a non issue?

When The abs light is "on" I think you won't get that weird feed-back through your brake pedal if one of your tires locks up, and you'll sort of be "on your own" without the aid of your abs system, otherwise brakes work the same I think, hahaha

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That would be correct when ABS is disabled. ABS allows steering control in a hard braking situation as you stated, vice all four wheel lock up like in the good ole days. Some have the misconceived notion that it reduces braking distance but it does not. The 2 inch height variation I could see causing issues because of the huge variation in ring feed back front to rear. I keep my height front to rear as close a possible. I can tell you that a 27.28 on the front and a 28 MT ET R series on the rear causes no ABS issues in my experience. Hope that helps you in getting a suitable front runner.

I thought you were referring to a deeper diagnostic code that would crop up and cause problems which caused the ABS to disable.

Thanks for getting back.

redfirepearlgt said:

That would be correct when ABS is disabled. ABS allows steering control in a hard braking situation as you stated, vice all four wheel lock up like in the good ole days. Some have the misconceived notion that it reduces braking distance but it does not. The 2 inch height variation I could see causing issues because of the huge variation in ring feed back front to rear. I keep my height front to rear as close a possible. I can tell you that a 27.28 on the front and a 28 MT ET R series on the rear causes no ABS issues in my experience. Hope that helps you in getting a suitable front runner.

I thought you were referring to a deeper diagnostic code that would crop up and cause problems which caused the ABS to disable.

Thanks for getting back.

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It just simply defaults to traction control "off", advancetrac "off", and abs "off" when turned on and started so you don't have to disable that stuff every time you start the car at the track. I'm not exactly sure what the ABS deal is all about, but it's disabled in the race tire tune.

If I have the story correct, you can only have a max of 2% difference between fronts + rears...for the ABS to function correctly.

Pentalab said:

If I have the story correct, you can only have a max of 2% difference between fronts + rears...for the ABS to function correctly.

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Sounds correct to me, I know my stock front tires / rims are only actually 27.?", and the rear quick time pros are definitely 28" and I've never seen the ABS light as of yet

2% is mighty tight.

I'd be surprised if it wasn't a double digit variance allowed by the system.

Circle D 4C was best mod I've done to the car. Well worth it.

Pentalab said:

If I have the story correct, you can only have a max of 2% difference between fronts + rears...for the ABS to function correctly.

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That's .56" based on a 28" tire. I run a 27.28 up front and a 28" rear to and from the track 30 miles each way with only a TPMS sensor warning the pops up because of not having any TPMS sensors on the DR's. No issues with ABS warnings on that setup. IDK......

Unreal said:

Circle D 4C was best mod I've done to the car. Well worth it.

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Just got off the phone with the tuner this morning working out some fine tuning in the shifting and trying to add some cam and more timing down low coming out for lower 60's. I asked him...more power for 2017 or Circle D? He said hands down Circle D. So that settled it. I prefer it that way anyhow. More efficient use of current power is the better way to go. He encouraged me to go 3C 258mm with my setup. Circle D concurs on spec as well.

I can't imagine owning an auto Coyote with a factory converter, knowing what I know now, hahaha!

skaarlaj said:

I can't imagine owning an auto Coyote with a factory converter, knowing what I know now, hahaha!

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God damn it. Thanks!

Now I want to spend 3 grand this year still, instead of under 2.

cbass said:

God damn it. Thanks!

Now I want to spend 3 grand this year still, instead of under 2.

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Although some seem to have run alot better than mine on the stock converter, "if that helps" hahaha. Seriously though, I could barely squeak the stock street tires with my car before the converter?

skaarlaj said:

Thanks Brian, your success with your car on this forum has alot to do with my parts path taken so far, with my power deficit because of my horrible DA conditions, I may just go against the whole world one of these days and put some steep gears in this thing as I'm barely getting into 3rd gear right at the 1/8th mile traps at around 80mph.

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Happy to help! I would think that with your crazy big DA taking power away from your car, that any mechanical leverage (i.e. gears) would really help your ET's - especially your short times through the 1/8 mile. Ideally, we want to use most of the gear that we're crossing the traps in. If you're barely getting into 3rd gear, then you would benefit from more gear. Just need to calculate which gear ratio will get you to the top of 3rd gear at the 1/8 mile stripe.

If your car shifts at 7500 rpm's and you run a 28" tall tire, your max speed in 3rd gear will be 100 mph with 4.10's, 95 mph with 4.30's, 90 mph with 4.56's, and 80 mph with 5.13's. Obviously, the 5.13's would be silly steep and would leave zero margin if your DA and/or power level improved! The 4.56's would use up most of 3rd gear by the 1/8 mile. The 4.10's and 4.30's don't use up enough of 3rd gear, so they likely wouldn't be much better - if any - than the 3.15's for the 1/8 mile. I'm always on 1/4 mile tracks, so I believe the 4.10's work in my car, but your car would probably be interesting with 4.56's in the 1/8 mile. If you lose your sanity and try 4.56's, get the cross pin that's notched for it instead of grinding a couple ring gear teeth to make it fit. I learned the hard way installing 4.56's in my '11 GT MT-82. On a side note, 4.56's and MT-82's are not a good pairing, IMO, for 1/4 mile duty (whole separate story that I won't get into).

I've actually done that, and on a 28" tire and converter locked, 4.56's at 7,000 rpms would top out at 84 mph in 3rd, I now trap right around 80, but 3100 rpm's at 80mph on the interstate sounds kind of nuts imo. 4.30's put me at 89 mph at 7K and some room to grow power-wise, but that'll never fly here with people thinking that 3.31's are the only gears that'll physically even fit into an automatic coyote Mustang's rear end lol!