Super Bad A$$ 2009 S197 3v R-Spec Build Thread!!!

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
Super Bad A$$ 2009 S197 3v R-Spec Build Thread!!!

This is going to be one really, really nice street car. This is not a race car build. It will never run down the strip. It will never run at the road course. It’s built to drive around on the street with stupid power while remaining reliable (always runs cool), fun to drive, stealth and not obnoxiously loud. I think when this is done it will be one of the baddest 3v’s on the planet.

I’m building this for a friend. I don’t do “customer” work but I made an exception for this car because I’m getting to do it how I would do it if it were my own car. This is the car I would build if I could afford it. We’re expecting 850rwhp (the limit of the injectors). With bigger injectors, it will go 1050-1150rwhp, everything is there to support it. But seriously, 850rwhp with street tires with a street suspension in car without a roll bar, race seats and harnesses is scary enough!!!

Here is the quick rundown. Not all of the details are sorted out yet:

Motor

-4.6L
-9.25:1
-Manley H Beam Rods
-Manley Pistons
-Kellogg crank
-ARP everything
-DSS Main Support System
-ATI Superdamper
-Billet oil pump gears
-FRPP Stage I heads with bronze valve guides
-Comp 127550 cams locked out at -6deg
-PAC springs
-V-10 block off plates
-TFS cam chain/crank sprockets
-Custom valve covers with custom crankcase breather system

Power Adder

-Department Of Boost R-Spec manifold kit
-Department Of Boost 10 rib belt drive system
-3.4L Whipple Crusher Supercharger

Inlet

-JLT 148mm Super Big Air
-75mm Whipple twin bore throttle body

Cooling

-Afco radiator
-Department Of Boost MONSTER heat exchanger
-Department Of Boost MONSTER degas tank
-Stewart “Super" Pump 27 gallons per minute
-Lines and fittings 1.25” braided Kevlar with AN fittings

Fuel System

-Lethal Performance triple pump e85 rated return system
-iD1000 injectors

Exhaust

-Not sure yet. Big headers and 3in all the way out though

Transmission

-T-56 Magnum XL with 2.66 first gear
-RXT clutch
-Custom shift handle and knob
-Dynotech aluminum driveshaft

Brakes

-Stoptech 14” full floating 4 piston
-Fancy/Matching rotors in the rear

Suspension

-D-Specs
-Eibach springs
-MM CC Plates
-Steeda tubular rear control arms

Rear End

-Stock with a 3.55. There won't be enough traction to break anything.

Wheels/Tires

-True Forge 20x10 front - 20x11 rear
-Michelin Pilot Ssupersports 275/35 front – 305/30 rear. 315 rears were on galactic back order. As soon as these 305’s are smoked (which won’t be long!) that’s what is going on.

That’s the broad strokes. There will be lots of little details and custom bits by the time it’s done. Those items will be in the build thread.
 

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
Got it at the right angle so I can put it in the air and do the entire project without moving the car. In this position, I can get both doors all the way open, I can get at the trunk with plenty of room to spare and there is a TON of room around the front of the car. The foam on the roof is for setting the hood on.

IMG_2433_zpsp7wlmjcu.jpg



Up she goes. Time to sweep the leaves out.

IMG_2436_zpsweye7xvj.jpg



The car had a 2.3L Whipple HO kit on a stock longblock making 450hp

IMG_2440_zpspkjdkocr.jpg



First big step is to get everything with fluid in it out of the car so that mess only has to be dealt with once. Then all the parts get hosed down and the floors are cleaned.

IMG_2455_zpsr8nvjrzo.jpg


IMG_2456_zpsi1dntqzj.jpg


IMG_2457_zpstr2lvqwn.jpg



Parts pile!!!

IMG_2458_zpse2z8dv5c.jpg
 

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
Cars would be so much nicer without wiring.

IMG_2475_zpsjlclh8hh.jpg



Blower is off.

IMG_2476_zpsk6nsciu5.jpg



The tailpipes (the stock ones) were effectively welded into the mufflers (stupid slip fit stuff). I cut them with a sawz all after 20min of not getting anywhere. Stock tails are a dime a dozen, and they’re not being used anyway. I still need to dig the pipe out of the mufflers so I can sell them though.

IMG_2510_zpsb4bc0qg6.jpg


IMG_2512_zpsyxf3cn5g.jpg



The headers have slip fits at the collectors too!!! Shame on you ARH!!! That is a crap design. They were welded together too. And this is on a fair weather driven Texas car. I had them cherry red at one point trying to get the H pipe off. After and hour I gave up and cut the H pipe right behind the collector. Now I’m going to have to get what is left on the collectors off and weld them back on the H pipe. We’re probably not using these headers. But if we do I’m going to weld real flanges to the headers/H pipe. I would never buy a set of ARH headers because of this design.

IMG_2511_zps7tgemh9d.jpg



And shame on MGW. Who uses SAE socket head cap screws? The entire car is METRIC!!!! I had to go find some SAE allen wrenches.

IMG_2515_zps5xwtqus5.jpg
 

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
I’ve never done this before, but I wanted to pull the motor/trans from the bottom. I don’t think those huge headers would have come out the top with the motor. And there was no way it was going to happen without scratching a bunch of stuff. Plus, when it goes back in the headers will be wrapped. No way of getting it back in without tearing the crap out of the wrap.

Hook the picker up to the front bumper supports with a tow strap.

IMG_2550_zpsbcblifwf.jpg



Position the China Freight dollies under the K member and trans cross member.

IMG_2551_zpsv7f9y5jc.jpg



Lift car enough to get the front jack stands out (SCARY!!!)

IMG_2552_zps2nfddq6c.jpg



Lower car down till it touches the dollies and remove the last two nuts holding the K member and the last bolt on the trans cross member (the other fasteners were already out).

IMG_2553_zpsmogkmldg.jpg


IMG_2557_zpsjdgcvhc8.jpg



Lift the car back up with the picker and put the jack stands back under the car.

IMG_2558_zpsurmhxxat.jpg


IMG_2560_zpsrcaxaeox.jpg



Wheel motor/trans out.

IMG_2561_zpsadlhzqpl.jpg



And this is where I saw we had a real issue with the headers. They’re already right up against the K member and to run the R-Spec with the 3.4L the motor needs to drop 3/4". And that is WITH a tall hood. The headers are a little lower in this pick because of the motor mount flex (it will have urethane mounts when it goes back together), but there isn’t going to be enough wiggle room. Probably. I’m going to mock it up tomorrow with the urethane mounts and see where it sits. I’m not optimistic. If they don’t clear, we’ll sell them and run Kooks stuff. I’ve dropped them 3/4" with no issue in the past.

IMG_2562_zpslt2sdstn.jpg


IMG_2563_zpsg10kdoku.jpg


More soon!!
 

weather man

Persistance Is A Bitch
S197 Team Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Posts
13,332
Reaction score
152
Location
MN
Hmmmm, hope my Trufiber A61 hood gives me enough clearance on my spec r.
 

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
Hmmmm, hope my Trufiber A61 hood gives me enough clearance on my spec r.

I did a Google search and got a picture of your car.

What does it look like on the bottom? The contact pint is the front/center of the case. If that hole in the hood has clearance under you're probably OK. I had mine under a stock GT500 hood, which is taller than a GT. But not a lot taller. I was dropped 3/4".

IMG_2274.jpg
 

weather man

Persistance Is A Bitch
S197 Team Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Posts
13,332
Reaction score
152
Location
MN
I looked at some pics (breather location comparing) and I think it will be OK. Will check fitment of course and if I need to grind a crescent, pulley will get some forced air cooling :)

underhood_zpsdcx4csyw.png



Picture1%20Small_zpswvvsecx9.png
 

mpm_1

forum member
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Posts
166
Reaction score
73
Location
Columbus, IN
nice project and write-up !!

if "-Custom valve covers with custom crankcase breather system" means selling off the black Ford Racing ones currently on the engine keep me in mind...
 

skwerl

tree hugger
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Posts
16,193
Reaction score
1,137
Location
central Florida
You will not be happy with the gear ratios in that transmission combined with a 3.55 rear end. Seriously, you will be geared to hit 60mph in first gear which will make it very hard to modulate on the street and around parking lots. I had the T56 with the 2.97 1st gear and 3.73 gears and it was still geared too tall. And I had short tires to boot!

I won't hound you on it but if you insist on those gears you will be making a very big mistake. That's my 2 cents.

Also, a BMR K member and A arms will free up some header clearance as well as lose some of that extra weight on the front end. It will also handle better.
 
Last edited:

eighty6gt

forum member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Posts
4,292
Reaction score
403
You cut those proprietary heater hoses!

It's fairly easy to pull the entire engine harness as you did?

Thanks for the good ideas.
 
Last edited:

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
You cut those proprietary heater hoses!

It's fairly easy to pull the entire engine harness as you did?

Thanks for the good ideas.

Yeah, the harness really isn't too bad. And one out of the way.........

Those clips on those heater hoses suck. I cut them because I'll be cutting all of the hose off of the factory quick fittings and putting that fabric braided stuff on there.
 

sdleo29

forum member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Posts
518
Reaction score
3
Location
Long Island NY
Interesting build for sure, can't wait to see it as it progresses. What was the power goal when you were putting the parts list together? I usually see you say stay with stock cams, as they are capable of making 800RWHP and typically more reliable for a street car... I am torn in terms of putting a cam in my new build and limiting/locking out the VCT...
 

Department Of Boost

Alpha Geek
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
8,809
Reaction score
28
Interesting build for sure, can't wait to see it as it progresses. What was the power goal when you were putting the parts list together? I usually see you say stay with stock cams, as they are capable of making 800RWHP and typically more reliable for a street car... I am torn in terms of putting a cam in my new build and limiting/locking out the VCT...

The combo (minus injectors) is good for 1100ish. But he already had the iD1000's so that will be the limiting factor. On e85 I think that's about 850. But, the base pressure could be jacked up or bigger injectors run. We'll set it up for 850ish and work all the bugs out/see how it drives then go from there.

The overall goal is to have a real car (not a race car) that makes stupid power while being 100% reliable. Something you can jump in to go get milk. If the state of tune it ends up in is short of it's overall parts potential this guys isn't worried about it. If he wants more power later he is a set of injectors and a tune away from truly stupid numbers.
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top