Alright I searched now I'm asking timing chain who's done it.

blue3v

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Tried to search it out couldn't find anything. Looking for info on timing chain install. Also be looking to do cams soon. Any help would be good parts advice etc.
 

Turbotungsten

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Just curious, why do you need to change the timing chain? If you need to replace the chain, I would replace everything (retention, phasers, guides, chain). Ford Racing has a nice kit.
 

blue3v

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Nothing really. I'm fixing to do a cam swap and figured it would be a good time to do it. The car has a little over 100000. I think 118000 to be exact I'll check tonight when I get home.
 

weather man

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Nothing really. I'm fixing to do a cam swap and figured it would be a good time to do it. The car has a little over 100000. I think 118000 to be exact I'll check tonight when I get home.

Buy the kit and replace everything while you have it apart.
 

eighty6gt

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My car has 80,000 miles, nothing shows any wear whatsoever in the timing system, it's really something. Mobil 1 5w20.

That said I'm installing the FRPP timing kit (including phasers,) I got for $150 Canadian pesos as I finish up the engine.
 

46addict

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My car has 80,000 miles, nothing shows any wear whatsoever in the timing system, it's really something. Mobil 1 5w20.

That said I'm installing the FRPP timing kit (including phasers,) I got for $150 Canadian pesos as I finish up the engine.

I thought the reasoning behind using chains over belts is to lengthen service life. I can't see chains being worn out at 80k on a street car. Tensioners, guides, and phasers are the main timing components that wear out if I'm understanding right. Someone school me if I'm wrong. I'm reading and learning.
 

eighty6gt

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They are not worn at all, nothing is, I just have the engine open and have the parts around.

I am expecting my engine to fail due to one of the roller followers taking a dump or the phaser system failing/plugging up due to integral gasket failure and taking out the rest of the engine due to contamination starting with the cam bearings. #2 would be bad gas taking out a ring land and then the entire kit and caboodle including the blower!

I believe if I were to replace the roller followers it is equally likely one or more new ones will be faulty as the ones currently in the engine, so no reliability can be gained by replacing these parts. They are probably good for several 100,000 miles.
 

46addict

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I believe if I were to replace the roller followers it is equally likely one or more new ones will be faulty as the ones currently in the engine, so no reliability can be gained by replacing these parts. They are probably good for several 100,000 miles.

You lost me here. How can a follower with 0 miles be as likely to fail as a follower with 80k on it? Are you saying 80k miles isn't enough to warrant changing them?
 

eighty6gt

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You lost me here. How can a follower with 0 miles be as likely to fail as a follower with 80k on it? Are you saying 80k miles isn't enough to warrant changing them?

I'm saying the factory parts are flaky and that keeping known good is just as reasonable as swapping out for possibly bad (new parts.)

If you're not putting a lot of miles on the car it's a waste to replace the parts. They will not fail before something else does, and if they do, this is bad luck, and you are risking the same fortunes putting in new parts. This is only my opinion.
 

46addict

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I ran my '09 F150 with a 5.4 for 380k without changing a thing.

Has it had a hard life? If it was boosted and raced like engines in our stangs the outcome may have been different.

I get what eighty6 is saying though. Without going full Jesel valvetrain, any factory Ford part, new or used, is a crapshoot.
 

05stroker

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Has it had a hard life? If it was boosted and raced like engines in our stangs the outcome may have been different.

I get what eighty6 is saying though. Without going full Jesel valvetrain, any factory Ford part, new or used, is a crapshoot.

Never boosted, but it lived life as my DD for 318k and my 21 yr old son at the time put the rest on it. If you are a pedal under my foot, you live a hard life! Lol

I get what you are saying though.
 

06JET

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Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Now upgrading is a different story. I would just do the cams and drive it. Have fun either way and good luck.
 

blue3v

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Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Now upgrading is a different story. I would just do the cams and drive it. Have fun either way and good luck.

I have to be honest I thought this same very thing. And I was looking at upgrading a few of the parts over factory but still debating. I may just pop the cover and inspect. It's just one of those things I've always done in the past if your going that far you might aswell do this or that. Kind of like going in and changing the clutch and not hitting the rear main at the same time. To me it didn't make any sense to not take care of what you could. Granted pulling a trans and a front plate are to different things.
 

blue3v

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The other thought that rolls through my head and I have not don't my reasearch yet. Are these motors no interference. As in when the chain goes so does the motor? To me that's another side of the coin.
 

Wes06

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It is definitely interference motor.
Even running to aggressive a cam and not locking out vct will cause ptv contact
 

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