Yes I've Searched. Extensively. P0345 and 0349

Dirtleg

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Background. My 2007 GT has been sitting for most of the last 2 years. I had been fighting a driveline issue which is now fixed thankfully.

About a week before I figured out the driveline issue my check engine light came on. I didn't check it at the time as I was wrapped up on my other issues and I wasn't driving the car.

Fast forward to yesterday I finally pulled the codes and it was a P0345 and P0349. I swapped the sensors side to side, cleared the codes and started the car. Same issue. Problem stayed on the same bank and did not follow the sensor.

At this point I caught on about the alternator issue, and seeing as how I was still running the original alternator, went ahead and installed a rebuilt one today.

Well that didn't solve the issue either.

Next check will be wiring harness. But before I go there I wanted to mention what seems to me like odd behavior for this issue.

Example 1. When I clear the codes, I get a fault code as soon as I start the car. This is normal and would indicate that the sensor wasn't reporting on start up. It does not throw a code prior to engaging the ignition switch.

Example 2. If I turn on the ignition and there is already a fault in the system the check engine light blinks before starting the car if the ignition is left in the on position. Again seems to be normal behavior for this issue.

Example 3. If there is a code when I power on the ignition but clear it before starting the car, I do not get a code on startup or an extended drive (60 miles no code) but it will come back after the next time the key is cycled off and the car is started. This seems odd to me as the fault is not happening on startup like it does in the first example but is waiting for a power cycle.

It seems that if the sensor were not reading on startup, which if I understand correctly, is about the only time this sensor is used, it would throw the code again when starting the engine. The only thing I can think of that would cause it to ignore the sensor in this situation were if it only did the sensor check at key on. But if that were the case why would it wait until the engine was cranked to throw the code?

Also is there another common issue that can cause these diagnostic faults that I haven't clued into yet?

Thanks for reading.
 
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nawagner

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I can't remember if these are the sensors that are first in line from the alternator circuit and thus crops up when the alternator diode is bad or if the alternator is going bad but that might be worth a check. When the alt goes it creates all kinds of weird electrical gremlins with the codes on these cars.
 

06monera96

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Could be pinched wiring
Bad alternator
bad pigtail(connector to the sensor)
Bad sensor
Could even be bad VCT solenoid.

Mine ended up being bad connectors were loose, when the heat got to the connector and it started to expand it loose contact.
 

Dirtleg

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Well it's been a while and I was out of town way more than expected. I did manage to get in a track day at VIR for the SVT Superfest on April 19th.

So after checking the wiring thoroughly I decided to dig into the motor and swap out the cam phaser.

150k miles first time ever opened the engine.


Mark the chain so the new cam phaser will go back in the right place.


Check out the locating pin and surrounding area.




This is how it's supposed to look.


And finally back together.


Total time to replace was about 2 hours start to running again but I don't work very fast compared to some people.

Best of all no more fault codes and it definitely has better throttle response.
 

Wes06

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Good to hear. Yeah that phaser is very bad looking. Glad it got back together and going
 

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