poly vs rod ends, strut tower brace and panhard bar questions

Rapture

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Title meant to say "shock tower brace" not strut

05 GT. So I am building a track/race car that I will still drive on the street. I do not care about comfort. I like to rugged and rawness of a race car. My car interior is half stripped with plans on removing everything else this summer. Besides the dash.

Is there a big benefit in rod ends vs poly for track cars? Is the extra stiffness noticeable. Talking about panhard bar and LCAs mainly since those are my next mods. If my main goal is to build a track car then I want to get the proper race car stuff from the start. Looking at BMR for most of my suspension stuff. Looks like quality stuff. Nice prices. I like red. Is poly mostly for guys who want a race car "like" feel with still some comfort?

Next question is about the shock tower brace I have. Does this really need to be welded in? I've read both sides here on different brace install guides.

Money comes slow so mods need to be saved up for.

So far I have...

-Sportlines
-Shock tower brace
-A-arm brace
-Strut tower brace

Next on the list...

-Panhard bar
-LCA and relocation
-Shocks/struts

Far down the list...

-Roll cage
 
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groundpounder

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In what particular way do you require assistance? Your question is not at all specific.
 

ghunt81

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First you have to have questions for people to provide help in response to.
 

TGR96

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I've never seen a STB with either poly or rod ends, just bolts straight to the strut tower bolts.

As far as PHB, if it's a street driven car, I would strongly suggest poly ends. Save the rod ends for track driven cars.
 
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Rapture

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I edited the first post. My phone was about to die so I just typed something real quick to save the post
 

BMR Tech 2

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How much power? What kind of racing do you plan on doing with your car?
 

Rapture

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I've never seen a STB with either poly or rod ends, just bolts straight to the strut tower brace.

As far as PHB, if it's a street driven car, I would strongly suggest poly ends. Save the rod ends for track driven cars.



Granatelli and steeda shock tower braces have rod ends. Or spherical. Not sure the difference. I already have one. I was just concerned about the welding or not welding for the shock TB.
 

46addict

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If you're trying to wring out the last 5% of performance potential from your car, rod ends are the way to go. I'm not sure if the bracing is necessary. People who regularly track their cars say there is no measurable difference with/without strut/shock tower braces.
 

Rapture

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If you're trying to wring out the last 5% of performance potential from your car, rod ends are the way to go. I'm not sure if the bracing is necessary. People who regularly track their cars say there is no measurable difference with/without strut/shock tower braces.



Thank you
 

TGR96

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Granatelli and steeda shock tower braces have rod ends. Or spherical. Not sure the difference. I already have one. I was just concerned about the welding or not welding for the shock TB.

Cool. I posted before you edited your OP. I have never run a shock tower brace, so I really can't comment on those.

But it sounds like for your car's purpose, you may as well go with the rod ends. Because racecar.
 

Rapture

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Cool. I posted before you edited your OP. I have never run a shock tower brace, so I really can't comment on those.

But it sounds like for your car's purpose, you may as well go with the rod ends. Because racecar.


Yes that was my fault. Didn't mean to put strut. Sorry
 

Sky Render

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I have tested quite a few sway bar and control arm setups.

Good polyurethane bushings will get you 95% of the performance of spherical bearings without a noticeable increase in NVH or the additional maintenance required of rod ends.

However, if you are chasing tenths of seconds, spherical bearings and rod ends are the way to go.
 

Rapture

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I have tested quite a few sway bar and control arm setups.

Good polyurethane bushings will get you 95% of the performance of spherical bearings without a noticeable increase in NVH or the additional maintenance required of rod ends.

However, if you are chasing tenths of seconds, spherical bearings and rod ends are the way to go.



I'm not chasing seconds so I think I'll be good with poly. Thanks sir
 

Rapture

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How much power? What kind of racing do you plan on doing with your car?



Sorry didn't see. I can't afford forced induction. So how ever much is possible with a NA setup. I'm probably almost half way there with exhaust, tuner, intake.

Plans are...

-Cams
-Throttle body
-Underdrive pulley
-Delete plates
-weight reduction
-whatever else is left
 
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BMR Tech 2

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Sorry didn't see. I can't afford forced induction. So how ever much is possible with a NA setup. I'm probably half way there with exhaust, tuner, intake.

Just go with poly then. I recommend our poly LCAs up to ~700 RWHP/RWTQ, so they'll be able to handle N/A with ease. If you plan on doing auto-x/road course stuff, it would probably be a good idea to grab a set of poly/bearing LCAs since lots of cornering will wear the bushings out quicker.

Panhard bar, either do a poly/poly bar or the poly/bearing bar.
 

Rapture

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Just go with poly then. I recommend our poly LCAs up to ~700 RWHP/RWTQ, so they'll be able to handle N/A with ease. If you plan on doing auto-x/road course stuff, it would probably be a good idea to grab a set of poly/bearing LCAs since lots of cornering will wear the bushings out quicker.



Panhard bar, either do a poly/poly bar or the poly/bearing bar.



Thank you sir
 

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