Running Rich w/ Whipple

Running Rich w/ Whipple **PROBLEM SOLVED**

**PROBLEM SOLVED**

The primary problem that ails me is that running the vehicle for more than an hour produces a too rich condition that affects drivability. I had an opportunity to install the AutoMeter Nexus Wideband A/F gauge and it only confirms the too rich condition. When my drivability problems begin, the numbers are off the chart, exceeding 20:1 (the limit on the gauge is 20). Carbon soot covers the back of the vehicle.

This problem presented itself immediately following the Whipple supercharger installation. I'm currently using the Ford Racing tune provided with the kit.

Some of you may recall my first major Whipple problem. The heat exchanger on the underside of the compressor was leaking coolant into the engine. Whipple rebuilt the supercharger and provided me with new spark plugs and two new fuel injectors. See this thread for more details.

The only check engine light that I was able to catch had something to do with the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor. See this thread for more details on that.

So at this point, what are the first steps to resolving this issue. Will a good tune fix the problem? If so, what is it about the tune that can remedy the issue? What does a good tune shop know that Ford Racing doesn't?

If it's not the tune, then what could it possibly be? Perhaps the coolant leak damaged the O2 sensors?

The fact of the matter is that I cannot drive the vehicle more than an hour. Seems like the only variable here is the engine temperature, as the vehicle runs fine after sitting overnight.

wow WHAT is with that username lol. i saw that username trolling the boards and i thought for sure it was going to be a spammer. i had my ban for the name ready haha

and your problem most likely lies in the tune. get a custom tune and everything should work itself out for you

94tbird said:

wow WHAT is with that username lol. i saw that username trolling the boards and i thought for sure it was going to be a spammer. i had my ban for the name ready haha

and your problem most likely lies in the tune. get a custom tune and everything should work itself out for you

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For the past few years, I used the same username for just about every site that required registration. Simply put, Google reveals too much information. I just get in the habit of generating a random username, using the max allowable characters.

Anyhow, how will a custom tune account for whatever is lacking from the Ford Racing tune?

3c673cxao7l9o7u80ag8as1g2 said:

For the past few years, I used the same username for just about every site that required registration. Simply put, Google reveals too much information. I just get in the habit of generating a random username, using the max allowable characters.

Anyhow, how will a custom tune account for whatever is lacking from the Ford Racing tune?

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you have 2 usernames here now so its sorta confusing now haha.

the tune is going to correct your a/f ratio. it replaces the FRPP whipple tune, it does not add to it. a custom tune dials in all of the engine variables specific to your car and keeps it running, at least electronically, in tip top shape

Like I said in the other thread, an A/F ratio of 20:1 is the opposite of rich...it's insanely lean!!! Rich would be 10:1 or lower.

3c673cxao7l9o7u80ag8as1g2 said:

I'm currently using the Ford Racing tune provided with the kit.

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FWIW, I've heard on more than one occasion that the Whipple-supplied tune can be a bit lean. But, I don't know if the FRPP tune is the same.

3c673cxao7l9o7u80ag8as1g2 said:

For the past few years, I used the same username for just about every site that required registration. Simply put, Google reveals too much information. I just get in the habit of generating a random username, using the max allowable characters.

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If you REALLY wanna fuck with people, get yourself an email address here.

http://www.abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzabcdefghijk.com/

don_w said:

Like I said in the other thread, an A/F ratio of 20:1 is the opposite of rich...it's insanely lean!!! Rich would be 10:1 or lower.

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Show's how much I know. Dealer looked at the soot on the trunk and said it was running rich. The numbers from the wideband gauge are definintely accurate though.

Tapping the throttle at idle, the number will drop to 10.0 (which is the lower limit), then the number will quickly jump to 17.0-20.0 (20 is the upper limit).

20/1 is 20 parts air to 1 part fuel. Way lean as previousely stated. I would not drive it until it is fixed or you are setting yourself up for detonation probably resulting in a nice view of your shattered rods through the block. Are you shure your fuel pumps are working properly? It sounds like they aren't keeping up and that's why the fuel rail pressure is too low. With the fuel pressure too low a tune won't fix it.

3c673cxao7l9o7u80ag8as1g2 said:

Show's how much I know. Dealer looked at the soot on the trunk and said it was running rich. The numbers from the wideband gauge are definintely accurate though.

Tapping the throttle at idle, the number will drop to 10.0 (which is the lower limit), then the number will quickly jump to 17.0-20.0 (20 is the upper limit).

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Sometimes there is a little delay in the readings. And it's not uncommon for the gauge to go lean right after the throttle is released. For example, at idle you would expect something around 14.6:1 to 15:1. Blipping the throttle might cause a temporary rich condition, followed quickly by a lean condition as the rpms come back down. But it should go back to the high 14s again. But, if you're seeing high A/F numbers at WOT, then you got some major problem.

drockoftx said:

20/1 is 20 parts air to 1 part fuel. Way lean as previousely stated. I would not drive it until it is fixed or you are setting yourself up for detonation probably resulting in a nice view of your shattered rods through the block. Are you shure your fuel pumps are working properly? It sounds like they aren't keeping up and that's why the fuel rail pressure is too low. With the fuel pressure too low a tune won't fix it.

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The problem doesn't appear until an hour or so into a drive. If the vehicle sits overnight, then all my problems seem to disappear. An attempt to install the fuel pressure sensor failed, so for the meantime I have no way of measuring the fuel pressure.

Is it possible that the fuel pump would heat up or otherwise conk out after an hour?

3c673cxao7l9o7u80ag8as1g2 said:

The problem doesn't appear until an hour or so into a drive. If the vehicle sits overnight, then all my problems seem to disappear. An attempt to install the fuel pressure sensor failed, so for the meantime I have no way of measuring the fuel pressure.

Is it possible that the fuel pump would heat up or otherwise conk out after an hour?

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Just to be perfectly clear did your Whipple kit come with the FRPP twin fuel pumps?

thump_rrr said:

Just to be perfectly clear did your Whipple kit come with the FRPP twin fuel pumps?

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Yes it did. I purchased the 10 PSI kit w/ intercooler.

When did you purchase the kit? How long has it been on before it started the problems?

LAK3RS said:

When did you purchase the kit? How long has it been on before it started the problems?

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DAY ONE! I installed the kit over a weekend, and the first hour after I hit the road, I experienced the problem. I installed the kit on a week old 2007 GT. I had just a few hundred miles on it. I purchased everything in June.

Mind you, I also had an intercooler leak from the get-go. The heat exchanger under the compressor was leaking coolant into the intake manifold. Coolant loss was a problem from the beginning. I noticed coolant loss immediately, but since I didn't see it anywhere in the engine bay, i ignored it. So, to set things straight....I had coolant loss AND drivability issues within the first hour after installation.

wait your coolant was dissapearing and you just ignored it??????

94tbird said:

wait your coolant was dissapearing and you just ignored it??????

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Well, no, I didn't ignore it, I just didn't know what to make of it. My only assumption was that if I didn't see signs of coolant loss, then it couldn't be serious. Realize that we all have different levels of automotive experience, and I wasn't able to put two and two together. It was only about 4 days before the problem was identified and action was taken.

Okay, the problem still continues. However, now I've got my fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and wideband A/F gauge installed. I can't really make any sense of the wideband gauge as it seems to be all over the place.

Today when the problems appeared, my fuel pressure dipped to 10 PSI. Now, I just have evidence that when the problems appear, the fuel pressure drops. It pretty much hovered at 10 no matter what I did, even at idle.

Any idea where I should direct my focus to help everyone here identify my problem?

Just throwing ideas out there....y'all feel free to shoot holes in them as needed...

• Have you checked for fuel leaks and/or air leaks in the fuel system both upstream and downstream of the pump, that could account for low fuel pressure?
• Have you triple checked the electrical connections to the fuel pump?
• Finally, can you get hold of another fuel pump to see if the problem is the pump or something downstream of it?