Hot Rod cam dyno results

KungFuHamster

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You need to get on the ball and atleast get the cmdp's and udps. The TB can wait
lol....yeah well i got a kid on the way so mods are on the back burner right now...but yeah i was just talking with Brn N Rbr and pullies may be the next item up, if not some CJ springs. We'll see. as for a TB...i dont plan on changing my stock one out at all.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum but I had the Comp Mutha thumpers put in my 2007 GT/CS about 9 months ago. The installer was up front and honest about the change in driveability he said the car would have (ie tends to buck a little at lower rpm's and in slow traffic driving) but I feel it was a small tradeoff to get that killer lopey idle that makes people look at the car as i idle through a parking lot. You can almost hear them say "That car's not supposed to sound like that" Although I thought that it should have made more power (305rwhp/308trq) it was still worth it, and from what iv'e been reading apparently i'm making about what everyone else is with basically the same bolt ons. I'm happy!

What other mods do you have? What were your baseline numbers to compare the cam numbers to?
 

mds08

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I have the Hot Rods and made 325 at the wheels before high flow cats and aluminum drive shaft. I have a FRPP cai,pulleys,short tubes,with high flow cats,drive shaft,and 410's. I'm going tues. to have my steeda delete plates put in and re tuned. I will post new numbers later in the week. I didn't loose any low end torque and no driveabilty issues at all. I think the Hot Rods are great mod.I wish people would stop ragging the Hot Rod cams about not making power. Lets start sticking together and ragging the ricers.
 
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07calspecial

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I have a C&L CAI,underdrive pulleys and Flowmaster A/T mufflers with a Diablosport canned tune. Had 288rwhp/298trq. Now the tune is an SCT done on a dyno, don't know which type dyno. Work was done by a place called Competition Auto in Spring Lake N.C. The website is www.compauto.net
 

Marc s

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Here is a comparison before and after the cam install.

picture.php
 

rojizostang

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i gained 35 and 25 after adding hot rods, deletes and pulleys with shorty headers before and after cams.

before: 285 and 295
after: 320 and 320

now i have long tubes and different gears
went from a 12.92 to a 12.67
 

jtscuba02

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I have a C&L CAI,underdrive pulleys and Flowmaster A/T mufflers with a Diablosport canned tune. Had 288rwhp/298trq. Now the tune is an SCT done on a dyno, don't know which type dyno. Work was done by a place called Competition Auto in Spring Lake N.C. The website is www.compauto.net

This is the same place that tuned my car.
 

terry5357

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Got it..I am doing cams first and LT's down the road....going to try the cam install myself with some help from friends.

Greg,
First off it is waaay better if you have another set of hands
There is a great write up on the cam swap somewhere on here, just do a search on cams and you will be able to find it. the most important thing (no matter how you do it is not to let slack get in the timing chain. Different people have done it different ways. I used a paint pencil to mark the chain and the sprocket to make sure I kept the sprocket in the same location. Onece I had the pahwer off I ran a wire thru the it and hooked a bungie chord ot the wire and then hooked the other end on one of the spokes on my front wheel. The important thing is just keep tension on the phaser/ chain.

also in the write up (I actually think it was from the comp website) show where the lobes need to be before pulling the phaser off. When the phaser comes off the cam will spin a tad, but don't worry about that. some people remove the followers that have a lobe on a valve. I didn't, I just put the cam into the phaser and just kind of snugged the bolt that holds it on, make sure the key is in the slot in the cam, set the cam into bearing journals. The end of the cam that is closest to the firewall will be raised up, just push on that end till you can get the cam tower bolts started a few threads and use the bolts to pull the cam into position.

Things to pay attention to are the followers, those little bastards will slip out of position if you just barely touch them. Also when using the cam tower bolts to pull the cam into position, be smart about it, make sure you don't have anything in a "bind". be sure to use some engine assembly lube or cam break in lube. If the cam tower caps aren't marked BE SURE to mark them, it is critical that the go back in exactly the same place, facing the same way, in other words don't get them rotated 180 degrees.

If you have turned a wrench at all, you won't have any issues with this. Just "pay attention to what you're doing".

Hope this helps you more than confuses you. Once you get going, what I have said will make sense.
 

RetroGT2006

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Cams are one of the mods on my list down the road.. I have recently retired from the mod game until i have more money saved up in the bank and we get our project car on the way. With cams and a DR i hope to be 12.6s in the 1/4 mile. Screw numbers, i am after how the car runs in the street/strip. =)

Whats the best N/A Cam? NSR cams? Not looking for the most power, but a good sound and streetability. This is my Daily Driver, so yeah. If it helps my car is a 06 GT, 5spd auto, 3.73s, intake, and LT's.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Talked with BBR today and ordered the tune for the cams! Can't wait!
 

SirKnightTG

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Talked with BBR today and ordered the tune for the cams! Can't wait!


I really look forward to your experience with the BBR Hot Rod w/ auto trans tune. Mine is REALLY messed up. I need to call John again but I almost don't care about my emails tunes any more. The first chance I get, I'm getting a dyno tune which I hope is in a few weeks if the weather will clear up and I can get a spot.
 

Greg Hazlett

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Uh oh...not good...I asked John about any issues with autos/Hot Rods and he said none but if I had issues they would take care of them so hopefully they will take care of you.
 

SirKnightTG

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Yeah I'm sure they could. I may give the email tunes a little more chance before I spend the $500 on a dyno tune.

For me, my BBR tune can't hold the idle so it jumps from 400 to 950, on start up it does not want to hold idle either instead it wants to fall < 500 and die and of course, the flashing O/D light when coasting slow (15-20 mph). I REALLY hate that issue. What's worse is I don't know 100% why the hell it's doing it. I have some theories from others but I can't make much sense of them myself. Of course my Brenspeed tune does it too and it seems they don't know why. Very frustrating. My Bama tune does not, but it has other issues that's annoying (like weaker over-all performance and VERY high start up RPMs which is annoying).
 
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Greg Hazlett

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Have you told BBR about the issues? I asked specifically about the o/d issue and he said they had 1 or 2 cars with that issue but they had a fix for it. I recommend calling vice email/PM on here.
 

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