2011 TSB Thread

Sky Render

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5.0L ENGINE - METALLIC RATTLE OR SCRATCHING TYPE NOISE FROM FRONT OF LEFT HAND CYLINDER HEAD AT IDLE - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3/31/2011

There have been several updates on this TSB, which affects the timing chain tensioner. I took my car in because it was making a godawful noise after it warmed up right off idle, usually heard as the engine's revs were dropping back to idle after being revved slightly, such as when doing low-speed parking lot maneuvers. The only way to describe the noise was that it sounded like a "CLACK-CLACK-CLACK, CLACK-CLACK."

It was BAD.

I have attached the latest TSB for this issue (12-03-01) and pictures of my service department invoice.

Get this done under warranty if at all possible. It's 6-8 hours of labor and a LOT of parts.
 

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  • TSB Page 1.jpg
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  • TSB Page 2.jpg
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FiveLeeter

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Are you on all stock suspension pieces?

yes I am. I took it in this week complaining of the suspension popping, but they just told me my rear endlinks were bad. I checked them last night and yes they are, but it is popping in the front as well.
 

FiveLeeter

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what do you call them then? The two vertical bars that connect the sway bar to the body?

Edit: I guess Tousley calls it a "rear stabilizer link"

#10 in the pic.

F21130.gif
 

Sky Render

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what do you call them then? The two vertical bars that connect the sway bar to the body?

Drop links is the colloquial term. I'm not trying to be a dickhead, but there is a difference.

And the drop links are very simple; there's nothing to them other than two bushings connected by a thin bar. So if there's noise coming from them, the solution is to either grease them or replace them.
 

Bad Boss 302

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2013 Boss 302 LS, #460
Vin: 1ZVBP8CU5D5249451
Ship date: 8/8/2012
Current mileage: 3800
Stock, unmodified

Issue: since new there has been a metallic-tapping-rattle can sound coming from under the car only during very light acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear (1000 - 2500 rpm). The type of driving you do in a residential neighborhood when you don't want to run over kids, little old ladies, animals, IED's, etc. To me, it sounds like several BB's in a tin can being shaken (not stirred). The sound is not real loud. When driving with the windows up, the AC or heat on, you really don't hear anything. But with the windows down, cruising slowly, the sound is bad (like you would expect from a worn out Yugo). My initial thoughts were that some welding slag was bouncing around in the cats or mid-pipe area. The following is what has happened so far at the dealership:

1st time in: check exhaust system for looseness, tighten bolts, check heat shields.
2nd time in: replaced clutch (pressure plate and disc)
3rd time in: Ford says we can replace the transmission fluid but if the noise is still there I will have to live with it. WTF???????
 

Magic_Bryce

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i believe I am getting the front lower control arm noise but i'm lowered on the frpp K springs, think i will have any issure getting the tsb taken care of? Noticed a slight squeak before the springs went on but didn't know about the tsb until recently
 

tagle281

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There have been several updates on this TSB, which affects the timing chain tensioner. I took my car in because it was making a godawful noise after it warmed up right off idle, usually heard as the engine's revs were dropping back to idle after being revved slightly, such as when doing low-speed parking lot maneuvers. The only way to describe the noise was that it sounded like a "CLACK-CLACK-CLACK, CLACK-CLACK."

It was BAD.

I have attached the latest TSB for this issue (12-03-01) and pictures of my service department invoice.

Get this done under warranty if at all possible. It's 6-8 hours of labor and a LOT of parts.


Getting this done Tuesday after Labor Day. I complained and have taken it for the noise 3 times. Finally got them to do something by complaining on a dealer survey sent from Ford. Went in and talked to the service manager and they finally agreed that there was an abnormal noise. Mine is a 12 but has an April 2011 build date IIRC.
 

cgibs89

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I have a feeling I've already identified the problem but my clutch used to engage about half way through the swing. Now it engages about half an inch off the floor and pretty much immediately if I even think about moving my foot after a spirited run. I also hear a "clunk" from the rear end when the clutch is completely in and I put it in gear, as if I were in an automatic car shifting into drive.

I'm leaning towards the flywheel bolts backing out? Mine's a 12 with a build date of August 2011.
 
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tagle281

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Getting this done Tuesday after Labor Day. I complained and have taken it for the noise 3 times. Finally got them to do something by complaining on a dealer survey sent from Ford. Went in and talked to the service manager and they finally agreed that there was an abnormal noise. Mine is a 12 but has an April 2011 build date IIRC.


Got this done but the noise is still there. I'm gonna try to fix this myself. Sounds like a manifold leak. I've given up on Ford fixing it. Now I have a clutch master cylinder leaking. Fuck I'm getting tired of taking this car in.
 
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J.Kidd

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Follow up to Axle Tube Vent leaking TSB:

I had the leaking axle vent and it was repaired last year under the TSB (and warranty).

Found it still leaking this year and brought it back. The new solution is the replace the differential cover with the finned, cast aluminum piece from the GT500 (and Boss) with a breather inserted at the top of it. The existing breather cap on the axle tube is capped off.

Just had this done yesterday (under powertrain warrranty). Not too shabby.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ng-Gt500-Style-Finned-Aluminum-Rear-End-Cover
 
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Sky Render

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Well, you've still got the same number of vents, so I'm not entirely sure how that would "fix" the problem. But it's nice to get that diff cover for free!!!
 

J.Kidd

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Well, you've still got the same number of vents, so I'm not entirely sure how that would "fix" the problem. But it's nice to get that diff cover for free!!!

I'm guessing it is "fixed" since the new vent now resides at the top of the differential cover (higher than the previous vent).

But your right - I am not complaining whatsoever in getting the new cover and a fluid change at no charge.
 

cyclerick

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Not sure I understand step 14, tightening the oil pump bolts. There are 4 bolts in the picture. Don't know which is bolt 1, 2, 3, unless bolts 1 and 3 are the 2 8mm bolts and bolt 2 is the 9mm stud bolt and bolt 4 is the 13 stud bolt
 
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