2012 Auto GT, Stock, First Time

Sledder

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Was running about 23 psi. I could certainly raise the pressure and see how it works. Makes sense. Thanks.
 

Sharad

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Another update as I am trying some new things and wanted to share the info. I have started to use Racer IQ to log and compare runs so I have even more numbers to digest.

A trip out to the track in May of this year was not a lot of fun due to lack of traction. A 12.85 at 109 was my best of 10 runs that day. DA was 2100 ft. Comparing corrected ETs however the corrected 12.85 from this May (12.537) actually nearly equals the corrected 12.68 (12.532) from last November. No changes in the car since the last time out in November.
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In June I strapped on a set of drag radials (M&H 275/45/18). I had some drama with the wheel width and the M&Hs and that is detailed here should you want read about it.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86356

Made 6 runs that day with a best of 12.75 at 110 (12.75/110, 12.80/109, 12.79/110, 12.81/109, 12.81/109, 12/84/110). DA was about 2200 ft. The 12.75 corrects to a 12.42, which makes it my fastest “corrected” time by a tenth.

Traction not an issue as the tires did their job. Again please note the date and times are not right on the time slips. Don’t know why.


Just got the car back from Livernois after a gear change (3.15 to a 3.77) C&L Cold Air and a revised custom dyno tune. Picked up about 18 hp. Looking forward to getting back out to the track to see how the changes work.

[FONT=&quot]Again thanks to everyone here (and in the tire forum) for their help and opinions.[/FONT]



Sounds like there will be some nice ETs coming soon!

Am I reading this correctly that you're running stock suspension, with just DRs for traction?
 

Sledder

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Sounds like there will be some nice ETs coming soon!

Am I reading this correctly that you're running stock suspension, with just DRs for traction?

That's correct. Drag radials on stock suspension.
 

Sledder

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I thought I would update this thread one more time as I have made a few changes and learned a few things that might benefit someone else with their 5.0 automatic.

After adding a 3.73 gear, C&L intake and a new custom dyno tune I headed out to the track. Things did not improve, at all. Car would consistently throw a wrench (go to limp home mode) and when it did get down the track it didn’t run any better than before the changes. Best time with this setup was a 12.80 at 110. The car was also throwing a wrench on the street under moderate acceleration. After some discussion with the tuner I decided to go in a different direction and contacted Lethal for a Lund tune.

Although I did not have a lot of contact with Lethal what little I did was very positive and the car responded well to the Lund e-mail tune. Drivability returned and I had a best of 12.57 at 111 at the track.

i-P22vTZs-XL.jpg


I was still in the market for a custom dyno tune so went to see Lidio at Alternative Auto Performance. In addition to the tune he also installed a set of BBK long tubes and a catted X pipe. He said he wouldn’t normally recommend the 3.73 for the automatic car preferring the 3.31 or 3.55. But because I already had the 3.73 installed I went with that for the time being. Saying I was happy with the car when I got it back is an understatement. Lidio takes great pride in maintaining the “drivability” of the car in addition to a great tune. After two trips to the track with Alternative set up I have a best of 12.20 at 114 and the car consistently runs 12.35s. It also drives great around home. New Dyno numbers are 387.6 hp and 357 tq.

i-ptzD48H-L.jpg


I believe I mentioned earlier that I am using Race IQ to log my runs. Here is a report showing my best runs from every phase from stock to current.

i-j6RwvWQ-X2.jpg


Although not a hard core racer these are my thoughts for anyone that wants to “warm up” their GT auto and go racing:

Do your homework and find a good tuner. Read, read, read and read some more. Everyone has their favorite and all probably do OK in a given situation. If you find yourself and the track or car shows talk to the mustang guys and see who they are using.

If you want your best possible times you need some drag radials. I was able to get a couple of decent runs on the stock tires if the track was prepped good but these cars are hard to get down the track consistently with the stock tires. Especially on the 1-2 shift. With the drag radials it dead hooks.

Don’t be too fast to change the gears. I know now there are numerous examples of these cars running good (into the 11s) with the 3.15 gears. If you do decide to change gears have a plan. Check with your tuner and figure out what your rpms will be crossing the finish line.

Next mod for me will be a torque converter. As your 60 foots go so goes your ETs. The General consensus is that these cars need a good torque converter to get them off the line.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum that provided input.
 

FIVE-OH

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Few things that I do (and most stock converter guys) would do different. First and foremost, with the stock converter leave at idle. The stock converter flashes at idle. Steeping up the revs will not make the car quicker, and can actually make it slower. Second thing (which you said yourself) was the gear change. These autos run best with stock 3:15's or 3:31's, anything more makes the car shift into forth and lose momentum. Also surprised you need drag radials. May be do to how you load the car, but I leave at idle and get no wheelspin. My track does have good prep though. Not criticizing at all, just giving my opinion on my experiences. For comparison, I just have a Mike Rousch tune and axle back. On street tires, at full weight (even a jack and spare), with my 6' 2" 250+ pound ass in it, in decent 500' DA I run 12.60's @ 111+ consistently. I am doing an off road H pipe and re-tune next that should put me around 12.3/12.2 @ 113/114. Good write up!
 
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BleedinBlue

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Few things that I do (and most stock converter guys) would do different. First and foremost, with the stock converter leave at idle. The stock converter flashes at idle. Steeping up the revs will not make the car quicker, and can actually make it slower. Second thing (which you said yourself) was the gear change. These autos run best with stock 3:15's or 3:31's, anything more makes the car shift into forth and lose momentum. Also surprised you need drag radials. May be do to how you load the car, but I leave at idle and get no wheelspin. My track does have good prep though. Not criticizing at all, just giving my opinion on my experiences. For comparison, I just have a Mike Rousch tune and axle back. On street tires, at full weight (even a jack and spare), with my 6' 2" 250+ pound ass in it, in decent 500' DA I run 12.60's @ 111+ consistently. I am doing an off road H pipe and re-tune next that should put me around 12.3/12.2 @ 113/114. Good write up!

This.

My tuner has a C/S, auto with just (his) tune and an o/r pipe, and his car is at 12.2 with street tires and stock gears.

When I first got this car I wanted the boss intake, 4.10's, CAI, and blah blah blah. Then I did some research, lol.
 

Sledder

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Agreed. I have had my best numbers leaving off idle.
 

Sledder

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Can’t believe it’s been over two years since I’ve updated this thread. But I have made a few changes and wanted to share my experiences for others that are thinking along the same lines.

In Oct of 2014 I decided to go with the Roush TVS. It was installed and tuned by Lidio at Alternative Auto Performance in Chesterfield, Mi. Also went from the 3.73 to a 3.31 gear. Dyno numbers after the install were 568 hp at 496 tq. Boost was 10 psi max a couple times on the dyno sheet but most of the time it was around 7-8 psi. This is a 93 octane tune.

We knew there was a little left on the table but for what I was doing, cruising around with an occasional trip to the strip for test and tune, it was more than fine. After that I installed a Shaftsmasters aluminum drive shaft looking to free up a little horsepower.

Car is a blast to drive and has great street manners. I do a couple summer road trips a year with no problems and it will get 23 mpg.

I have made a couple trips to the strip since the blower install and am happy with the results. On race day, with Lidio’s blessing, I change the 85mm pulley to a 75mm pulley and run a 50/50 mix of race gas (VP unleaded extreme) and 93 octane. After running in the low 11’s trying to figure things out I was able to click a few 10.90’s a couple weeks ago. Best ET was 10.91 and best speed was 131 (different runs). In contrast to my NA setup with the blower on the car it leaves the starting line the best when I am as high up on the converter I can be without pushing through the beams. Still running the M&H 275/45/18’s at about 17 psi.

Thanks to everybody here on the S197 forum. Even though I don’t post much I read the forum a lot and most of my ideas come from here after reading about your experiences.



i-HhJz4nd.jpg
 

skaarlaj

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Awesome man!!! I imagine you're going to stay with your stock converter now that you have the TVS blower?
 

Sledder

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Awesome man!!! I imagine you're going to stay with your stock converter now that you have the TVS blower?

Yes. From what I've seen and been told by those smarter than me the TVS cars do really well with the stock converter.
 

Phil

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not sure if serious...but there's a traction control button next to the hazard button where the shifter is.
hold down for 6 seconds while braking to turn off advancetrac
Nevermind for some reason I read that as turn off the torque convertor lockup....:omfg:
 

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