Bad Ball joints/ control arms

Mike in SC · Dec 30, 2011

I did a forum search on what I am asking w/ no results, so I'm asking now. My '09 GT convertible w/ 51K miles now needs new ball joints that are integral w/ the control arms. Beside the fact that I am disappointed over life of the OEM parts, the replacement quotes are stunning. If I have to replace then I would prefer to upgrade the parts so that they last longer. I am looking at Ford Racin[FONT=&quot]g [/FONT][FONT=&quot]M-3075-E. They look perfect except for the lack of tabs for the heat shields. Obviously Ford felt the need for these shields on the OEM parts but is the deletion of them really an issue?[/FONT] Feedback will be greatly appreciated. Pardon the bold text.

tmcolegr · Dec 30, 2011

you do realize the ball joints can be replaced for a fraction of the price without replacing the entire control arm. Ford doesn't offer the ball joints separately but many aftermarket suppliers do.

I assume the convertible uses the same control arm as the sedan but I'm not 100% sure of that.

Here's a link to Moog's ball joints

skwerl · Dec 30, 2011

I've never purchased those specific parts for my Mustang but I've been a firm bemiever in Moog brand parts for 25 years. This is not a new phenomenon with Ford. I had a 1988 F150 purchased new and the tie rod ends went out at 17K miles. The ball joints went out at 35K miles. All were replaced with Moog brand parts and the replacements were still solid when I traded the truck in with over 200K miles. I will ALWAYS choose Moog brand whenever available for any vehicle.

tpsmak · Dec 30, 2011

You can go with the Moog parts which are great OR you can get the J&M Extended Length Ball Joints which we carry

slidejob · Dec 30, 2011

I have almost 200K on my stock ball joints. You may want to try this first if the socket is not worn out. I use a hypodermic needle that is designed for a grease gun that you can buy at any auto parts store. You puncture the boot of your ball joints & tie rod ends with the needle & pump grease into the part. Works like a charm & extends the life of the part. By doing this I haven't bought a suspension piece in years for all of my vehicles.

matt06 · Dec 30, 2011

about to replace mine and theres a thread on here with a link to rock auto, i believe they were like $40/ piece. Im putting them in a set of bmr arms ive got otherwise id prob just spend the money and go with the frpp arms and less work.

tmcolegr · Dec 30, 2011

matt06 said:
about to replace mine and theres a thread on here with a link to rock auto, i believe they were like $40/ piece. Im putting them in a set of bmr arms ive got otherwise id prob just spend the money and go with the frpp arms and less work.

try clicking the link I already posted...

kevinatfms · Dec 30, 2011

slidejob said:
I have almost 200K on my stock ball joints. You may want to try this first if the socket is not worn out. I use a hypodermic needle that is designed for a grease gun that you can buy at any auto parts store. You puncture the boot of your ball joints & tie rod ends with the needle & pump grease into the part. Works like a charm & extends the life of the part. By doing this I haven't bought a suspension piece in years for all of my vehicles.

i would bet you that your front end is as loose as a pornstar's nether region.

unless you have some incredible factory freak i think your front balljoints are flat out shot....no amount of grease will fix a worn/loose balljoint.

its like putting a bandaid on a person who was cut in half.

Mike in SC · Dec 30, 2011

No, I was not sure that you could just replace the ball joints. Two front end shops told me that the BJ is integral w/ the Control arm. Can any good shop replace just the ball joints? Thanks for replies.

tmcolegr · Dec 30, 2011

Mike in SC said:
No, I was not sure that you could just replace the ball joints. Two front end shops told me that the BJ is integral w/ the Control arm. Can any good shop replace just the ball joints? Thanks for replies.

Yes it's not rocket science

If the shop says they can't be replaced - find another shop

skwerl · Dec 30, 2011

Sounds like they are trying to sell you the more expensive part with more markup. Plus it's easier to pad the labor hours when you're already spending a couple hundred more on parts as well.

Any local auto parts store will be able to sell you ball joints without the control arms. Just find the local chain that carries Moog.

slidejob · Dec 30, 2011

kevinatfms said:
i would bet you that your front end is as loose as a pornstar's nether region.

unless you have some incredible factory freak i think your front balljoints are flat out shot....no amount of grease will fix a worn/loose balljoint.

its like putting a bandaid on a person who was cut in half.

How can you make an assumption like that not knowing me or my background, my driving habits or my abilities to service vehicles? I would think the 200K would give you a clue.

I use to own & operate an ASE shop in Stamford, CT, build all my own drivetrains, have been a club racer with SCCA for years with 2 of my favorite rides being an ex GT-1 Moody-Roush Mustang trans-am car, and building a BIW SN95 AS car.

So when I service my 05' GT every 7K, I inspect all aspects of the car because it is my office on wheels, so don't you I think I could find a bad bj? Plus you don't start greasing them when their bad, I made that point that if the socket is still good you can do this, I always start lubing sealed parts at 30K on a regular basis.

Mike in SC · Dec 30, 2011

It's real disappointing to be a customer and have to do the research so that someone who is a professional won't screw you. I'm getting the ball joints and finding a shop to change them. Thanks again.

Department Of Boost · Dec 30, 2011

tmcolegr said:
Yes it's not rocket science

If the shop says they can't be replaced - find another shop

Amen to that!

slidejob · Dec 30, 2011

Mike in SC said:
It's real disappointing to be a customer and have to do the research so that someone who is a professional won't screw you. I'm getting the ball joints and finding a shop to change them. Thanks again.

Unfortunately that is a big issue with the industry. When I owned my shop the stories I would hear & the work that I would see was disgraceful.

Just one word of advice. Most shops don't like customers bringing parts for installation. You may want to call around first before you buy. Also, if a shop does install your parts & their defective you have no recourse on any additional labor charges. Just an FYI.

Mike in SC · Dec 30, 2011

Thanks slidejob. If the shops that I mentioned don't want the work then I am sure that i will find someone who will take my green. Even if one turned out to be defective I would still be ahead of the game.

SD07GT · Dec 30, 2011

Mike in SC said:
Thanks slidejob. If the shops that I mentioned don't want the work then I am sure that i will find someone who will take my green. Even if one turned out to be defective I would still be ahead of the game.

First off dont let anybody tell you the control arm needs to come off (there just screwing you) use a c-cup ball joint remover @ installer.

you shouldnt pay more than two hours labor total .....it takes me 30 minutes per side ...I dont even remove the strut from the car . Than check your toe setting when your done.

wabirch · Dec 31, 2011

Glad you checked in here before you took the bait. Wow.

kevinatfms · Jan 3, 2012

slidejob said:
How can you make an assumption like that not knowing me or my background, my driving habits or my abilities to service vehicles? I would think the 200K would give you a clue.

I use to own & operate an ASE shop in Stamford, CT, build all my own drivetrains, have been a club racer with SCCA for years with 2 of my favorite rides being an ex GT-1 Moody-Roush Mustang trans-am car, and building a BIW SN95 AS car.

So when I service my 05' GT every 7K, I inspect all aspects of the car because it is my office on wheels, so don't you I think I could find a bad bj? Plus you don't start greasing them when their bad, I made that point that if the socket is still good you can do this, I always start lubing sealed parts at 30K on a regular basis.

ill pm you why...not wanting to get off course of this.

kevinatfms · Jan 3, 2012

the balljoint/control arm combo is a bean counters approach to making money, grab the moog stuff and dont look back.
also you may be able to contact a performance style shop instead of your gas station/mom&pop shops as they will normally allow you to bring your own parts for repair.

Bad Ball joints/ control arms

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