Recent content by SoundGuyDave

I'm with Terry, on this... Sort of. I didn't do the 305's, I ran a couple sets of CTSCC 275/645-18 slicks on my Enduro car, and while they were stickers, they "felt" like a slightly dead Hoosier R6 (which was my prime rubber) in the same size. What the CTSCC tires did, though, was wear like...

WAYYYYY above the iliac crest... That buckle is above your navel, and is supported not by bone, but by internal organs. In a 15mph crash, that'll hurt, and may cause internal injury. In a 100mph crash, that will kill. This is also EXACTLY the point that I was making about fitment. When you...

Guys, think about safety gear as part of a comprehensive package, and a lot of this will make sense. The OEM 3-point belt will stretch due to the lengths of the legs involved, and that will decelerate your torso and head. This *RELATIVELY* gentle deceleration is complemented by those soft...

First off: I do NOT have a Watts on my race car. However, I have driven (and raced, as in competition license raced) a LOT of S197s, with Watts links and Panhard bars on track, so I think I have a decent perspective on this. 1) I personally don't "feel" enough difference on a full-sized...

Two words: brake tramp. Or, "axle hop" if you prefer.

To add to what Kerry said, IN GENERAL toe-in helps with stability, but toe-out helps with turn-in... The drag guys usually go zero toe strictly to minimize rolling resistance. I run factory toe-in on my daily driver, but the race car? 1/8" toe-out with -2.75* camber. Turns in nicely, with...

Oil level is simple... Standard fill, then add 1/2 quart, done. For the seats, PARTICULARLY for your first HPDE, I wouldn't bother. You're going to have enough on your plate without having to worry about airbag sensors, dash lights, alteration from your "normal" driving position, etc. With...

To me the biggest thing to focus on in HPDE (besides the general fun factor, of course!) is pure driver development. A Miata is easier on consumables: a set of slicks runs about 1/3 of what it costs to put new shoes on a Mustang, and don't even get me started on brake pads and rotors! It's...

Miata.

Yes, they do. Pull the center nut that holds the strut to the plate; nothing on the plate should shift, or it's a crap design. This trick will require spring compressors if you're running stock-height springs, but with most "lowering springs," the free length is short enough that there's no...

There is no magic measuring equipment needed, just patience. It's actually easier and faster to do the bump-steer with bare struts (no springs) installed. 1) Install the springs/struts/plates (take all slack out of the strut/knuckle interface towards negative camber), settle the suspension...

The stock Hydro bushings are bonded to the control arms at manufacture, so there's no "simple" way to pull 'em off the old arms and slap them on the new ones. The 302S arms come with a bare stub at the rear end, and are intended for the end-user to add their own poly or delrin bushings. The OE...

Simple answer is that if you've lowered the car, the roll center up front has dropped. Period. IF you feel that is an issue, then then solution is to lengthen the ball joint stud or raise the attachement points on the inboard end of the LCA. Either one will create a bump-steer issue that then...

I don't know off the top of my head what the "P" rear spring rates are, but I'll bet they're at (or under) 200lb/in. With 3/4" static clearance between the frame rails and the bump-stops, that would allow you less than 150lbs of load transfer to that spring before you're on the bump-stop and go...

Very well said, Kelly, and I applaud your honesty and candor.