comp cam xfi 127200 - information needed.

Hi

I have a 2007 GT with CMDV plates a 3.73 rear end and FR CAI. I'm thinking of changing the camshafts to the 127200. I can do the change myself and will get a Bamachips tune.
I'm looking for some additional power for the German Autobahn, but I also commute 20mi in heavy traffic, most of the time I have to stop every 1/8 mi.

Is the comp cam XFI 127200 the right choice for me?

Thanks

don't get a bamachips tune, get a tune from lito at mds, if you get these cams you might need a wideband for tuning, and finally I'd at least go with 127300's.

GriffX said:

Hi

I have a 2007 GT with CMDV plates a 3.73 rear end and FR CAI. I'm thinking of changing the camshafts to the 127200. I can do the change myself and will get a Bamachips tune.
I'm looking for some additional power for the German Autobahn, but I also commute 20mi in heavy traffic, most of the time I have to stop every 1/8 mi.

Is the comp cam XFI 127200 the right choice for me?

Thanks

Click to expand...

The VSR cams will make better gains through the powerband than the NSR's will. With a 115 LSA, it should be very manageable in stop/go traffic. Not sure what type of power you're looking to get on the autobahn. If you're looking at the straights with no speed limit, the cam's will be an "okay" bump. Cams push powerband to the right, this is generally why when you put cams in a car you also step up the rear gearing, so the engine gets into those peak powerbands faster. On the Autobahn, in order for you to use that shifted powerband, you'll need to stay in the high RPM. Cruising in O/D around 4,000rpm will actually be lugging the motor a bit with aftermarket cams, vs stock cams. 3.73's not a bad gear ratio for O/D high speed cruising. It keeps the RPM's high while still allowing for a respectable top speed. A turbo would be your best solution, but if you're just looking for a touch more, the cams will give it.

A +1 for the XFI 127300 VSR's.

Thanks for your advice.

As a conclusion the VSR 127300 is worth the effort and the canned tune from user lito is preferred over Bama.

The high speed low traffic times on the autobahn are over. Usually you have scenarios like this. I'm on the middle lane with 75 mph approaching a 65 mph hatchback. When you look in the mirror bevor overtaking you see a fast driving Audi (a salesman on the phone all the time with a high power Diesel) on the left lane with 100+ and 400yd away. I have to decide let him pass first or speed up and overtake. So the rpm range is 2500-4500. The other scene is, I am on the left lane doing 100+ and some ... is changing lane in front of me with 65. So all the time speeding up to 100+, heavy braking to 65, again 100+ and so on.

Probably a long tube header would be an other option, but I'm not sure how to pass the German CARB inspection. Cams nobody sees. And I don't know if I'm able to change header by myself.

127300 should have been the factory cam imo. Them being classified as vsr cams is overly cautious imo comp drew the line at .450" lift initially before much had been done or really tested on the 3v. The stock springs were actually made pretty stout compared to previous oem stuff with the ability to handle 7k rpm and phasing cams. Plenty of other companies run stock valves springs to .480" lift or so. I added valve springs and phaser limiters when I did my 127300 cams as I was adding boost, but if I was staying na I would have no worries running 127300 cams with the stock valve train. IMO 127300 isn't a crazy cam and just works well. Maybe call it a stage 3 nsr cam imo.

GriffX said:

Thanks for your advice.

As a conclusion the VSR 127300 is worth the effort and the canned tune from user lito is preferred over Bama.

The high speed low traffic times on the autobahn are over. Usually you have scenarios like this. I'm on the middle lane with 75 mph approaching a 65 mph hatchback. When you look in the mirror bevor overtaking you see a fast driving Audi (a salesman on the phone all the time with a high power Diesel) on the left lane with 100+ and 400yd away. I have to decide let him pass first or speed up and overtake. So the rpm range is 2500-4500. The other scene is, I am on the left lane doing 100+ and some ... is changing lane in front of me with 65. So all the time speeding up to 100+, heavy braking to 65, again 100+ and so on.

Probably a long tube header would be an other option, but I'm not sure how to pass the German CARB inspection. Cams nobody sees. And I don't know if I'm able to change header by myself.

Click to expand...

The Kooks or Pypes Long tube design is an easy install, IMO. I don't think I even lifted the engine to assist. Definite gains to be had there. Have you considered doing a nitrous kit? Sounds perfect for an instant power need.

The Ford hot rod cam has a lift of 0.472 and is NSR. The 127300 has 0.48 and 0.49 lift.

I thought the long tube install is very painful. Will do some research. Yes, nitrous would be a perfect fit, unfortunately in europe when they stop you with a working nitrous kit, they take your car immediately and you have to pay a fine with fees of several thousands. That's driving with a not approved car.
Car is in winter storage now, so I have some time to decide.
Whats about emissions with a long tube? Its equipped with a metal cat? Thanks to the idiots of VW with their Diesel trick, all cars in Germany have to pass a real emission test now not only OBD readout.

Longtube install isn't really painful, just time consuming. I did it in my garage on jackstands but I also did it while the car was in winter storage, so I could take as much time as I wanted.

Also, cams and headers go hand-in-hand- you'll see much better gains from each with the installation of the other.

GriffX said:

The Ford hot rod cam has a lift of 0.472 and is NSR. The 127300 has 0.48 and 0.49 lift.

I thought the long tube install is very painful. Will do some research. Yes, nitrous would be a perfect fit, unfortunately in europe when they stop you with a working nitrous kit, they take your car immediately and you have to pay a fine with fees of several thousands. That's driving with a not approved car.
Car is in winter storage now, so I have some time to decide.
Whats about emissions with a long tube? Its equipped with a metal cat? Thanks to the idiots of VW with their Diesel trick, all cars in Germany have to pass a real emission test now not only OBD readout.

Click to expand...

Longtubes (or any headers) do not come with cats but you can order midpipes with cats installed. Or you can buy an offroad midpipe and have cats welded in. The second option may be cheaper if you know an exhaust guy. Buying a catted mipipe off the shelf can get expensive. I am guessing have to pass a sniffer test instead of just visual and OBD.

They will trip shit for sure if you don’t have cats, it’s a crap shoot when you have long tubes because it’s obviously not stock. I had long tubes on my car when I was stationed in Wiesbaden but I had a Mac prochamber and was able to convince them that it was a big cat. Also, get the bremebos if you don’t have them. That was one of the first mods i did because 09 brakes suck shit at over 120


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bigmachano said:

They will trip shit for sure if you don’t have cats, it’s a crap shoot when you have long tubes because it’s obviously not stock. I had long tubes on my car when I was stationed in Wiesbaden but I had a Mac prochamber and was able to convince them that it was a big cat. Also, get the bremebos if you don’t have them. That was one of the first mods i did because 09 brakes suck shit at over 120


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Oh yes, especially the OE brakepads are dangerous on Autobahn. The first time you have to brake hard you sweat.
The long tubes with cams combined would be a good choice. Waiting for the MGW shifter to arrive. Damned import taxes, have to pay 410$ for the flat stick shifter.