Stereo gurus step in!

Hi friends. I got super sick of fixing my saggy door panels and came up with some 2010 ones, while I'm in there I figured I am going to upgrade the front speakers, install a new deck and run some gauges. My wife bought me a set of component 5.25 speakers, I plan on using these but I'm not sure on the thickness (6, 12 or 18mm). Any off chance one of you guys have a clue? I want to have everything with me when I go to install.

Until 2013 in the S197's, 6x8 speakers are standard in the doors/rear deck. If your 5.25" speakers came with a 6x8 adapter bracket, you should be fine, otherwise you'll need one. It's been a while, but I swear the 6x8's measured around 2.25" in depth (bottom of surface mount to bottom of magnet)? I could be wrong, but I should be pretty close. They're fairly deep. I think the 8" Subs are like 3.25" deep.

Hope this helps, I noticed you're posting in metric so I'm not sure if we're looking at the same dimensions or not.

I'm pretty much eliminating the door subs and using that bracket to stick a 5.25 component in place of the 5x7 towards the top of the door. The little bracket I listed is a neat solution as it gives a decent mounting spot for the tweeter with enough room on the backside to put the small crossover. I'm no stereo guru so am guessing at a required mounting depth. Probably going to order the middle one and hope

Pretty sure speakers are 6x8 and not 5x7. I think you’ll want to make sure you have the right adapter bracket.

5x7=6x8 in the stereo world. I don't know why it's like that, but if you look up either speaker size it lists them together.

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1sloGT said:

I'm pretty much eliminating the door subs and using that bracket to stick a 5.25 component in place of the 5x7 towards the top of the door. The little bracket I listed is a neat solution as it gives a decent mounting spot for the tweeter with enough room on the backside to put the small crossover. I'm no stereo guru so am guessing at a required mounting depth. Probably going to order the middle one and hope

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Why eliminate the door subs? That's a huge chunk of your lows right there. Gonna have a stereo that sounds like a 8 year old girl, no offense. You can remove the 6x8's and put the 5.25" adapter bracket there and still run a tweeter for your component setup on the same bracket, or even flush mount it to the door panel itself. That's what I did with my '05 Coloardo. Just took a holesaw in the right spot, mounted my tweeter right into the door panel and put a little beauty ring on it. Looked factory and slick as shit. I would not give up the 8" woofers, if anything I would upgrade them with the 8" Kicker set that's spec'd for the GT500's. That's what component systems are all about, singing through the entire frequency range in HIFI.

702GT said:

Why eliminate the door subs? That's a huge chunk of your lows right there. Gonna have a stereo that sounds like a 8 year old girl, no offense. You can remove the 6x8's and put the 5.25" adapter bracket there and still run a tweeter for your component setup on the same bracket, or even flush mount it to the door panel itself. That's what I did with my '05 Coloardo. Just took a holesaw in the right spot, mounted my tweeter right into the door panel and put a little beauty ring on it. Looked factory and slick as shit. I would not give up the 8" woofers, if anything I would upgrade them with the 8" Kicker set that's spec'd for the GT500's. That's what component systems are all about, singing through the entire frequency range in HIFI.

Click to expand...

Going step by step. I'm simplifying the system a bit. First phase is a deck that works. I had this fancy Bluetooth alpine. Was supposed to be a flagship model. Once android hit 5.0 they stopped talking. So I haven't had a functioning stereo for a number of years. Been running a little bluetooth cube in the cup holder. So it's all an upgrade to me. Perspective.

Starting with a nice component setup up front and a small amp. Followed shortly by a sub with its own amp after the holidays. If I miss the mid bass I'll either use the back speaker location or that spot just under the rear glass to fill it back in. I'm no audiophile. I'd rather go faster. I just want to be able to hear it over the loud exhaust with the windows down on the highway...from my phone!

So I did link a product in my initial post, that's what I was wondering if anybody had some feedback on. The 5x7->5.25 adapter comes in 6, 12, or 18mm thickness.

1sloGT said:

Going step by step. I'm simplifying the system a bit. First phase is a deck that works. I had this fancy Bluetooth alpine. Was supposed to be a flagship model. Once android hit 5.0 they stopped talking. So I haven't had a functioning stereo for a number of years. Been running a little bluetooth cube in the cup holder. So it's all an upgrade to me. Perspective.

Starting with a nice component setup up front and a small amp. Followed shortly by a sub with its own amp after the holidays. If I miss the mid bass I'll either use the back speaker location or that spot just under the rear glass to fill it back in. I'm no audiophile. I'd rather go faster. I just want to be able to hear it over the loud exhaust with the windows down on the highway...from my phone!

So I did link a product in my initial post, that's what I was wondering if anybody had some feedback on. The 5x7->5.25 adapter comes in 6, 12, or 18mm thickness.

Click to expand...

Yes, I see the link now. New forum setup is a pain to see links with a white background. Those adapters are for the 5x7/6x8, not for the 8" sub mount. You could make your own if you really wanted to put those speakers in the 8" sub mount, but TBH it will sound better if mounted in the higher 6x8 mount. As for thickness, the easiest way to measure would be to have the door panel installed, and take a paperclip and straighten it out. Then pick one of the grill holes near the edge of the speaker and stick the paperclip in so the end is touching the rubber high point of the cone. *IF* the 5.25" speaker has a tweeter mounted center that protrudes above the rubber height, add that to your measurement. What you're looking for is how much space you have between the front face of the speaker to the speaker grill of the door panel. By sticking the paperclip in the hole and placing your finger against the grill, or taking black marker and marking the paperclip against the grill, you'll be able to measure the current distance you have. From there, you can decide what thickness the adapter needs to be.

They could offer different thicknesses for a variety of reasons. Maybe to help compensate for a competition style speaker that has a large deep magnet, or the 5.25 speaker may off-set the magnet in the way of a window track/mount. For your application, I'm willing to bet the 5.25" speaker is actually lower profile than the OEM 6x8, if not the same depth. That said, you could go with the thinner adapter to save on space between the speaker face and door panel. But the paperclip technique is great for measuring up speaker depths. Plus it's just fun the straighten a paperclip... or slinky...

Haha yes ty. The 5.25 will be going up high. The new door panels are from a V6 2010 mustang so no grill for the door sub anyways. Couldn't pass up 40 bucks for them considering all I've spent refurbishing my current ones myself and professionally.

Thanks for the info, will do the paperclip trick!

1sloGT said:

Haha yes ty. The 5.25 will be going up high. The new door panels are from a V6 2010 mustang so no grill for the door sub anyways. Couldn't pass up 40 bucks for them considering all I've spent refurbishing my current ones myself and professionally.

Thanks for the info, will do the paperclip trick!

Click to expand...

I don't think I've ever spent more than $400-$500 on a stereo system. The receiver is usually the most expensive item. I get amps/subs used, usually door speakers too but sometimes you can find a good deal on Ebay. The Rockford's that are in my F250 came from an ebay deal. Was $80 for all 4 speakers. Brand new! Then scored bigger locally on craigslist with a JL 12" Sub w/ported box and the JL Mono Amp to run it for $100. Another $60-$80 in wiring. Got a refrib Pioneer unit from Amazon for $120. I think it was $460 or so for everything. Turned out to be a really nice setup. I do want to upgrade to a touch screen receiver but I keep reminding myself of all the negative reviews about how bright they are when driving in the dark in the middle of nowhere. I do that a lot, so it's important that I can dim or turn off the deck lights. If I can't do that, it's not a deck for me. That's why I like the pioneers, all the lights shut off with a push of a button.

Funny I went with a specific Sony unit for a similar reason, as well as the fact that it has nfc pairing. I typically despise the brand but a friend had the lower end unit of it and after all my b/t woes a tap and sync was amazing. It made me feel... Old... Because I literally bought it to turn the annoying lights off and because it paired with my phone easiest.

The package I put in my 2013 GT:

Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX
iDatalink Connect KIT-MUS1
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module
Infinity Kappa 682.11cf
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8
Rockford Fosgate P2P3G-8
JL Audio Stealthbox
Alpine MRV-M250
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner
iDatalink Maestro SAT1
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter

It cost some money, almost $1800 after price cuts, bargaining and rebates. It took about a month to find it all shopping deals, steals, Craigslist and eBay. I spent about 15 hrs programing, removing panels and such. Then uninstall the old gear and install the new stuff. The Kappa's in the doors and package shelf. The Rockford Fosgate sub's in the doors. The Stealthbox is in the cubby behind the right rear tire in the trunk. The Stealthbox was the most costly item at $600. The Alpine amp is in the trunk behind a carpet panel, mounted to a pillar on the left side. Short of having a big 7 inch touch display where all the knobs used to be and small red Fosgate emblems on the bottom of the door subs it all looks factory. I gave up a little trunk room, but not too much. I stuck with the factory amps to eliminate some of the rewiring woes (RF interference, pulling carpet, seats...). I took my time soldering everything, using water proof shrink tube and putting down some dynamat like stuff while I was in there. I trimmed the door sub boxes a tiny bit (filled them with poly-fil), the package shelf next to the seat belt pass throughs and a couple of plastic clips holding the shelf behind the seat (made it really easy to remove). The GPS antenna went up under the package shelf in the rear. It receives 5 to 7 of the 11 available GPS satellites shown in the configuration screen. I Used the SAT1 adaptor to keep the OEM Satellite antenna. The Maestro unit kept all the Sync functions while bringing many new OBDII features, gages, pressures, temps, throttle positions and such to the big screen. All the controls for environmental, Bluetooth, cell phone, navigation, Carplay, etc. are right on that same 7" screen. I moved from the Dark Side of the Moon to Here comes the Sun and love the way it sounds. Technology ain't it grand!!!