2010 GT Coyote swap for HPDE/TT Build

Rpm427sc

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I wanted to share sort of a photo journal of the progress I've been making on a current project. I am not going to get too in depth technically, but I will gladly share any information that I have collected and problems I have solved during this learning process. This is just a hobby for me, but I find the journey of learning and overcoming obstacles very fun :)

Prior to undertaking this engine transplant, I was having fun with the car, doing a lot of Autocross and spirited drives up the mountains of Southern Cali.

Highlights of the car before swap:
~600 RWHP on 93
Stock Block
Kellog stroker crank
Manley H-Beam rods
Diamond Coated Pistons
ARP Hardware
Comp Cams Stage 3 Blower
Comp limiters/Hi Load valve springs
Whipple 2.3L w. 10 Rib Drive System
Tremec Magnum XL 6 Speed
4-piston Brembo's
Various suspension upgrades

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So what prompted me to do this? At the beginning of December, 2014 (yes I haven't driven the car since then!), I took my car out for a nice long drive up Palomar mountain, on the way home the #1 intake valve decided to break off and drop into the cylinder. I was almost going to rebuild the engine, with new heads but then I weighed the pros and cons and decided a Coyote would fit what I wanted to do with the car better. It will be much lighter, and be more reliable in the long run. If all else failed, I could just toss some turbos on it at a later date anyways. This was 2 days before leaving for a long deployment to South America, so I quickly pulled the engine and took the head off, this is what I found:

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The Valve broke off, and got captured by the exhaust valve. The roller follower shattered and the journal on the cam was scoured slightly. The piston was also mashed up a little bit, but luckily no damage to the cylinder walls or bottom end.

Over the course of the next 4 months, I came up with a game plan for when I got home.

Here was the basic plan for the build:

2011 F-150 core Coyote
Ford Racing Controls Pack
AiM MXL2 Digital Display
Stock rebalanced Crank
Manely H-Beam rods
Ross Racing Pistons 11.5:1 comp
Livernois CNC'ed Heads w. over sized valves
Comp Stage 3 N/A cams
Cobra jet Intake
CobraJet Throttlebody
BOSS Tensioners
BOSS Pulse ring
ATI Super Damper
ARP Hardware
Canton Road race pan
Billet Oil Pump gear
+Other goodies

I hunted around eBay and other online sources and found what I was looking for:

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I downloaded many tech documents and started to take the plunge into the build!
 

Rpm427sc

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My first step was to pull apart the 2011 Coyote Core and see what I had to work with. I stripped the engine down to the bare block and conducted a thorough inspection.

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Internally the engine looked very clean, and almost no wear. I took the opportunity to detail the block a bit, and remove some minor casting flashing and roughness.

I will be using ARP Hardware wherever I can during this build. They are much stronger and re-useable, unlike the torque to yield factory fasteners.

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It was now time to torque the main caps in place, prior to dropping the block off at the machine shop. I had the block Decked, Honed to fit the new pistons, Line honed, all with two billet toque plates attached to mimic cylinder heads.


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While the block was getting machined, I started prepping some of the other parts for installation.

I ordered some Billet Oil Pump Gears, which I installed into a new Ford Racing oil pump.
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I wasn't really a fan of the way this intake looks, so to match the theme of this project, I decided to refinish it:

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This composite material is some really tough stuff, and was a HUGE pain to sand, but I think the results were worth it.

The next piece of the puzzle was the cylinder heads. I sent them to Livernois Motorsports for CNC porting, oversized valves, and upgraded Valve Springs.

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New Balanced Crankshaft
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These will make 11.5:1 Compression and have Teflon Coated Skirts and Ceramic Coating on the domes.
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10 Quart Oil pan with trap doors to keep the oil around the pickup.
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Once I had all the parts on hand, it was time to check various clearances such as Main Bearing, and Oil Pickup Distance to Pan.
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Once everything checked out, it was time to clean EVERYTHING, including all the hardware in prep for assembly.
 

Rpm427sc

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Once everything was cleaned and thread holes chased, It was time for assembly:

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One of my Favorite Pics of the build:

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Ready to go in, American Racing Headers 1-7/8 x 3in Headers

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Now onto the most tedious part of this whole project: the Wiring!

If you look back at the old 3V setup, you will notice the stock wiring harness is EVERYWHERE and looks like crap. I wanted to fix this, by hiding as much of the wiring and components as possible. I also didn't want to put components in unreachable areas either, for obvious reasons. I had to figure some of this out as I went, trial by error until I was happy with everything.

So here was the game plan:
- Relocate the stock PDP (Power Distribution Panel) to where the Passenger Side airbag was, also removing unneeded circuits (such as A/C, Cooling Fans, Fuel pump, etc) since they will be included in the FRPP Controls Pack. This can be easily accessed by removing the Airbag Cover inside the cabin.
- Relocate the FRPP ECU inside the Passenger Side Fender. This can be accessed (including all connections) and slid out by removing a section of the inner fender in the future if needed.
- Extend the engine wiring harness to fit. I bought a new one for a 2013 BOSS 302.
- Build a Power circuit with Solid State Emergency Cut-Off, which will supply power to the whole car, tied into the Trunk Mounted Battery
- Retain stock circuits such as HVAC controls, Auto-up/down Windows, Auto-Headlights, Ford SYNC, etc
- Wire the AiM Digital Display with pulls CAN data from ECU, as well as any external sensors I utilize (I'll be using Oil Pres, Oil Temp, Fuel Pres, Fuel Level). This also has an external GPS sensor which can be used to pick up your Speed.
- Wire twin in-tank fuel pumps with external relays and fuses mounted in trunk area for easy access.
- Build new Starter and Alternator wiring harness, as well as make all new engine ground straps.
- Some other minor misc stuff


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Point of no-Return
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At this point, I was informed that I had Orders to be transferred to the Florida Keys, which meant I had to put this car in storage, and the project would be put on hold for about 2 years.

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This is how the car would sit for over 2 years, waiting for the time I was able to come rescue it from storage.



 

Rpm427sc

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I spent the next 18 months or so chasing Drug Smugglers, Human Traffickers, and Pirates all over the Caribbean, and sometimes even getting a day or two off to explore some of the tropical islands scattered about, usually involving Rum and a Beach. It was such a sharp contrast between the natural beauty of these islands, and the Dark Ugly actions of the people we were hunting out at sea.

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When I returned to Key West, I was informed I was able to take a whole 9 days off! Now was my chance to go grab my car out of storage in San Diego and drag it back to the Keys. Luckily my old roommate didn't sell it for beer money and it was just as I left it!

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Of course things go wrong when you only have 9 days to drive across country twice non-stop....

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I'm tired just thinking back to this....


Since Garages are not legal down in the Keys, I would have to deal with sweat burning my eyes and inhaling mosquitoes anytime I wanted to work on my car, so progress was slow....

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Home for now.

 

fourdegrees11

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Dude, freaking bad ass. 2010 model year was so messed up by Ford, glad to see a built coyote going in there.
 

Rpm427sc

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Early on I decided that I wanted to keep Hydraulic Power Steering as opposed to converting to electric. I searched around and found a kit from Power by the Hour (Which I ended up regretting)
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I found out the F-150 Front cover wouldn't work, so I picked up a new cover for a 2013 BOSS, I also took the opportunity to replace the valve covers since the salvage yard looked like they hit it with a forklift. I also learned that at some point around 2012/2013 Ford upgraded the VCT control solenoids, to prevent them from cracking under extreme heat/vibration. My 2013 harness had those connections on it, so I went ahead and replaced all 4 VCT's, as well as changing out all the cam cap bolts to ARP.

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So this brought me to my next issue. If you notice in the picture above, the A/C compressor is almost touching the swaybar, and the P/S pump pulley wanted to live halfway through it. So after some head scratching, I realized that the engine mounts that I bought from Lethal Perf a while back were completely bent due to the torque of the 700hp+ Whippled monster I had in here before. Here is the fix:

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Steel Fabricated Zinc Plated one piece mounts from Watson Racing which replace all the junk on the left in the next picture.

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So I mounted the A/C comp and P/S pump and used a bunch of locktight since the kit uses these adapters, and barely had any thread engagement and looked like they may back out. The kit also came with the wrong length bolts, so I had to shorten the bolts to mount the A/C comp also.
Next step was mounting the Alternator. The kit has you mount it backwards and upside down. Because of this, you cant use a one way bearing on your pulley, which is unfortunate since they are very useful in high RPM applications. The kit claimed a 2010 style would fit, but there was NO way that would have been possible, even with heavy cutting of the cover. I ended up Amazon-ing a few different styles, and settled on one from a 98 Cobra. 2010 on the right, '98 on the left.

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The way the Alternator would have been mounted is upside down and backwards, with the slots facing upward, with the belt tension pulling it down. I decided to machine some sleeves to insert, to prevent any slippage from vibrations.
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So after all that work, The Alternator still had some fitment issues, and the front cover would need some serious surgery. Ontop of that, the bracket had a little more flex than I liked so the combination of all these issues, and the fact that I was going to track this car and didn't want to be chasing belt issues, I decided to scrap the whole Bracket Kit by PBTH. In the future I am planning on switching to Dry Sump, and would like to run a KRC P/S pump, so this setup wouldn't work anyways.

My current setup is the following:
- BOSS 302R P/S pump BRKT
- BOSS 302 Alt kit

These are race proven parts, and the install is very clean and shouldnt give me any issues at all. The Alternator also has a one way clutch, so it won't have to come down in RPM during shifts, and the 2013 BOSS Harness I am running will have the correct connector and in the right spot. If in the future I decide to put A/C back on the car, instead of drysump, I can convert to electric steering, and run a 2015 A/C comp.

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Fab'ed by Watson Racing, and have the same construction as the engine mounts. Very strong, lightweight and Zinc Plated.

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I'm really happy with this setup. Its very clean and simple, and should be able to handle all of the revs I can toss at it. Also, the Belt has BOSS 302 printed on it, cool detail.


Some minor stuff: Ford Racing BOSS 302R/S steering wheel kit, with quick release hub. This will make getting out of my Cobra seats way easier. (Adapter pictured is the wrong one, but Watson Racing quickly made it right)

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Horn Button Wiring (I have since went to a Milspec plug):

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Since I will be removing the factory IC, I installed a BOSS302R/S closeout kit from Watson Racing:

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Rpm427sc

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Dude, freaking bad ass. 2010 model year was so messed up by Ford, glad to see a built coyote going in there.


Yea, I bought the car new a few months before Ford announced the 2011 model with the 5.0 and the Brembo option. Was sooo pissed haha.
 

Rpm427sc

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Next up was the Fuel System. The FRPP Controls Pack require a stand alone return style system. I settled on a kit from Lethal Performance. The parts I chose will make the whole system 100% E85 compatible as well.

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10 Micron Wire Mesh Filter
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2 Walbro Pumps
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PTFE Hoses
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Bracket to mount the FPR
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The wiring kit did not come with the correct connectors, so I used some weather-packs.

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Routed the hose in place of the factory stuff
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Filter fits in Factory holder, and the splash panel will fit over this to keep it out of harms way. I also used a heat gun to form fit the inner fender to cover the new fuel lines, so they are protected from the elements.
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Rpm427sc

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Engine Harness mods:

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Power Distribution:

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I finished up a few small things, and tested all the non power train circuits with success!
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Rpm427sc

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Power Steering Plumbing, High Pressure Side:

The P/S pump was moved to the passenger side, so the stock lines would no longer work. The rack also doesn't have any threads in it, so short of welding on some fittings, I was stuck making the stock hardlines work.

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So the plan was to cut the hardline and install a fitting to allow the use of some braided line.

I used some scrap tubing and did some test flares.

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Not so great, so I decided to bevel the tubing before I did the final flare.

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Going to be running Corsa Sport Mufflers, and some JPC Racing Over-the-Axle pipes.

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So my time was up in the Keys, and got orders to transfer to Virginia, which was good because it is legal to have a garage there!

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Its a rental so sadly I cant do an epoxy coating, so I did the next best thing:

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Rpm427sc

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Now it was time to wire all of the components in the FRPP Controls Pack. As before, I wanted to hide everything, but also have easy access to any fuses/relays etc. The kit comes with a throttle pedal that needs to be used, and is different than the one already in the car. It comes with a plain black pedal (the revised 2015 Controls pack comes with Aluminum as well as lots of other nice features, so use that for your Coyote swap ;) ). I modified the cover and epoxied it to the new pedal so it matches the brake/clutch. I also modified the glove box and mounted the PDB inside, which required extending the harness in some areas.

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Installed this with some rubber isolators, and Riv-nuts into the sheetmetal.

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After this I decided I didn't want the engine harness running down the side of the engine near the headers, so I cut a hole, and made my own grommet that would allow the large connector to pass through, and still seal. I also ran the wiring from the Control Pack to the Fan, MAF, Alternator as well as the Output off the Alt. I was temped to zip tie the starter trigger wire to the existing starter harness, but then my OCD kicked in and I cut it open, and re-shrinked and heat shielded the new harness (RIP last 2010 stock harness).

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I used a center hole to draw it flush to the sheet metal, which is curved. Then I drilled the mounting holes for the stainless button heads.
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Just fits!
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It felt so good to be done with this!


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Rpm427sc

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With all the wiring done in the engine bay, I can start putting parts on the car.

I'll be running this instead of the factory PCV system:

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I also modified one of the fittings so I could use it for the Fuel Pres Reg

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Next I moved onto the cooling/heater hoses.
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Turns out the BOSS 302 Oil cooler will not fit if you have Hydraulic Power Steering, due to interference. I'll be making my own oil cooler setup in the future.

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Speedfreak

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Nice write up and excellent work/info! All the best with the build. Looking forward to seeing the results
 

TheKurgan

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You do have OCD. Looks interesting but alot of work for less power ? And you say this is going to be alot lighter than a 3V ? I know the whipple is heavy but how is the car going to be alot lighter due to this swap ? Also garages in the Keys are not really illegal, you just can't insure them. Good luck with the build.
 

Rasmus

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If you end up going to VIR, throw a message my way. We're up there often -- stupid often.
 

Rpm427sc

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You do have OCD. Looks interesting but alot of work for less power ? And you say this is going to be alot lighter than a 3V ? I know the whipple is heavy but how is the car going to be alot lighter due to this swap ? Also garages in the Keys are not really illegal, you just can't insure them. Good luck with the build.

The blower and intake are very heavy, but also keep in mind the 10rib belt drive (thick aluminium plate) Heat Exchanger, and 5 gallon Water Tank in the trunk, it all adds up. But that's not the REAL issue. The real issue is heat soak. If you ask any race engineer, one of their primary concerns is removing heat (from brakes/trans/diff/engine/charge air/driver compartment etc etc). That is the determining factor on how long you can run around the track for and how long your engine lives.

Having a nose heavy car, with maybe 10-15 mins of track time endurance, with limited RPM range (much lower than a Coyote), and questionable reliability/valve train stability, just isn't worth the extra 100hp.

That being said, once my driver mod has reached a certain point (years probably), I plan on putting some Turbo's on it, with some very efficient air/water heat exchangers with ducting to pull air from outside the car and exit undisturbed. Add in a good aftermarket race ECU, I'll be able to have a happy healthy engine without making unusable power all the time.

P.S. I know you will not be arrested for building a garage in the Keys, but its against Housing Code (cannot have anything more than 200 square feet enclosed, and it can only be used for storage), only exception is older structures that are grandfathered in. If you don't follow this not only will you not be insured, but you cant get a loan to buy it, or sell it to anyone that requires a loan (especially true if its a VA loan).
 

RocketcarX

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You sir are in the wrong field. Get to a custom shop and quick! Like Kendig grade, bro. Do. It.
 

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