4.6L + Edelbrock E-force

Johnstone

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Just as I was planing to go fully bolt-on upgrades, I fall on a great deal for a complete kitt Edelbrock Supercharger stage 2. I have a 2010 Gt 3v... i'm hoping with a good Lito tune ill be able to pull 465ish at the wheel?? Is it attainable? I havent asked Lito yet.

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06StangGT

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With a good tune from Lito, you’d probably be safe, but you’d be pushing the limits of the stock block in the long run
 

46addict

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Lito made the lottery analogy in another post. He said something like each HP is a ticket to a blown engine and the more you have, the better your chances. There's no magic number as to what HP it will blow but driving hard on the stock internals with a lot of power will increase your odds. Made sense to me. But with his tune you can count on it to be safe so if the engine blows it would be due to mechanical failure, not tune error.
 

TGR96

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A buddy of mine blew his motor up (stock internals) running low boost (I think 8psi?) on a Saleen SC. He wasn't even getting on it when it let go.

Like 46addict said, it's a lottery...
 

Johnstone

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A buddy of mine blew his motor up (stock internals) running low boost (I think 8psi?) on a Saleen SC. He wasn't even getting on it when it let go.

Like 46addict said, it's a lottery...
You think by changing cams will help?

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RED09GT

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You think by changing cams will help?

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They may help a marginal amount but they do nothing to address the known failure point, which is the rods. The rods can either go from a single detonation event or they even seem to get weak with the repeated stress of a power adder.

Best advice is to have Lito tune it and keep RPM's under 6000. I was bad at following the 6000 rpm guideline and after 3 years of knowing that it could happen at any time, I pulled the motor before making the whole thing into a useless pile of scrap aluminum.
 

Pentalab

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The rods are pretzel sticks. Beat on it enough, and they will eventually succumb to metal fatigue. I have a 2010 with M90 blower, 5.8 psi + LT's = 425 rwhp /483 crank hp. The eforce was rated for 460 crank hp = 405 rwhp... if you want more than that, use LT's, = free HP.

If u want 465 rwhp, and no LT's... it requires 528 crank hp..which is a bunch. You only need just 1 rod to bend or break, then window the block, rendering it useless. The 05-10 cars with the FRPP whipple and the 11 psi high boost option, loads of those have busted a rod. The lower 9 psi whipple is plenty, and is still pushing your luck. Roush told me that under no circumstances to exceed 9 psi.

The stock E force starts at aprx 5 psi... and ends up at 8 psi at 6k rpm. That's plenty, add LT'S if you want more.

It's very tempting to go nuts with the TVS-2300, since it's capable of almost 15 psi. If you want it to last, keep it conservative. If you want lotsa pwr, rods need to be replaced, in which case you may as well forge everything. Sounds expensive, but is cheaper vs windowing your existing block, then replacing that with a forged eng anyway. pay me now, or pay me a lot more... later.
 

DiMora

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I've been running a Roush TVS R2300 at 9 PSI with Mac longtubes for 40,000 miles with no issues. I make 480-ish RWHP. I have a WOTBOX, I race the car, and I also run a Snow Performance meth injection system in it. It's not tuned for the meth, so it's a safety margin vs. a power adder. My snout pulley is 3.47". I don't worry about it blowing, but like everyone else I want more power so I am building a 5.0 liter fully forged stroker and will be doing an engine swap once I get some home improvement projects done.
 

Johnstone

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The rods are pretzel sticks. Beat on it enough, and they will eventually succumb to metal fatigue. I have a 2010 with M90 blower, 5.8 psi + LT's = 425 rwhp /483 crank hp. The eforce was rated for 460 crank hp = 405 rwhp... if you want more than that, use LT's, = free HP.

If u want 465 rwhp, and no LT's... it requires 528 crank hp..which is a bunch. You only need just 1 rod to bend or break, then window the block, rendering it useless. The 05-10 cars with the FRPP whipple and the 11 psi high boost option, loads of those have busted a rod. The lower 9 psi whipple is plenty, and is still pushing your luck. Roush told me that under no circumstances to exceed 9 psi.

The stock E force starts at aprx 5 psi... and ends up at 8 psi at 6k rpm. That's plenty, add LT'S if you want more.

It's very tempting to go nuts with the TVS-2300, since it's capable of almost 15 psi. If you want it to last, keep it conservative. If you want lotsa pwr, rods need to be replaced, in which case you may as well forge everything. Sounds expensive, but is cheaper vs windowing your existing block, then replacing that with a forged eng anyway. pay me now, or pay me a lot more... later.
Interesting.. thank you for your input.

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Johnstone

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I've been running a Roush TVS R2300 at 9 PSI with Mac longtubes for 40,000 miles with no issues. I make 480-ish RWHP. I have a WOTBOX, I race the car, and I also run a Snow Performance meth injection system in it. It's not tuned for the meth, so it's a safety margin vs. a power adder. My snout pulley is 3.47". I don't worry about it blowing, but like everyone else I want more power so I am building a 5.0 liter fully forged stroker and will be doing an engine swap once I get some home improvement projects done.
Whats your 1/4mille?

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DiMora

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Whats your 1/4mille?

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12.4@116 with street tires.

I've never run drag tires on it. I believe that's part of the reason it has held together. With that said, I have a set of Race stars in the basement - and I'm so tempted to throw some real rubber on there and see what it can do, but I don't want to break it before I get my new engine installed.
 

Johnstone

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12.4@116 with street tires.

I've never run drag tires on it. I believe that's part of the reason it has held together. With that said, I have a set of Race stars in the basement - and I'm so tempted to throw some real rubber on there and see what it can do, but I don't want to break it before I get my new engine installed.
That pretty good.
Im stock and my best time is 13.7 @107.7Mph

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flipper

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I have s 2010 4.6 3v with 10000 miles. I put an Edlebrock Stage 1 SC on it in April 2017. I have 2000 miles on it since installation. 452 RWHP is what I have with the supplied tune. Watson Racing did the install. I do not track it or drag strip it. So far so good. I’m happy.
 

luckyloke

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Unless you are getting a crazy deal on the eldebrock id suggest Department of Boost. Jason is running the group buy and that intake manifold and intercooler is a lot more efficient. I got my kit on the group buy.
 

Johnstone

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Unless you are getting a crazy deal on the eldebrock id suggest Department of Boost. Jason is running the group buy and that intake manifold and intercooler is a lot more efficient. I got my kit on the group buy.
Yes i am getting crzy deal...
DOB was my next choice. Ive heard great things.

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Johnstone

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The transformation begins...very excited.
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532edefe2a40a73a61127c74422588ae.jpg


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travelers

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When they first came out a local speed shop I used to hang at installed one on a '06 or 07 made some good power. The only thing is it was noisy. You knew it was supercharged.

Congrats on the good deal, are you installing it yourself?
 

Johnstone

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What heat exchanger set up are you going to run?
Im not sure yet.. but i have bigger problems.. aparently this model i bought is for a 2009 mustang and NOT 2010!
Let the fun begin!

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