Rear main seal/oil slinger

Got a question for you guys to make sure I ain't freakin crazy because I don't want to fix this again for at least 50k miles. Almost got it right last time, but I still have a small drip. Which way does the rear seal/oil slinger go??? Pic #1 or Pic #2????? 99.9% sure pic #1 is correct but it can't hurt to ask.

Also, for this repair what was your gasket maker of choice?

Pic 1 is correct. You should closely inspect the crank surface that the inner diameter of the seal rides on to make sure there are no burrs or imperfections which could be causing the leak. Especially if you already replaced it once and still have a leak. What are you using gasket maker for?

The fel-pro rear main is known to leak. They make 2 versions of it now, I forget which is superior, however you can't go wrong with a seal from Ford.

mustanger said:

Pic 1 is correct. You should closely inspect the crank surface that the inner diameter of the seal rides on to make sure there are no burrs or imperfections which could be causing the leak. Especially if you already replaced it once and still have a leak. What are you using gasket maker for?

Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm using gasket maker for the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate. The Ford workshop manual says use ford gasket maker TA-16. Last time I used permatex anaerobic gasket maker between retainer plate and engine block and a bead of RTV ultra-black between the plate and oil pan. I'll check the crank surface again, hopefully it's not nicked or anything.

I can't really tell without removing the transmission first but this time I think I might be leaking for the left edge/side of the retainer plate. The drip isn't exactly centered under the middle of the where the crankshaft is.

Also - I'm using a new motorcraft seal and oil slinger....again. I read the old threads about the Fel-Pro seal.

how are you installing the seal?

Any misalignment = failure

eighty6gt said:

how are you installing the seal?

Any misalignment = failure

Click to expand...

The best response I can come up with is "carefully". Next time will be more carefully, lol. Maybe next time instead of trying to get the whole thing done in 1 day, I'll do the tear down on day 1. Then on day 2 install the seal/slinger, take a break, visually check it a couple more times, take a break, then put everything back together.

I would love to own the specific ford tools for rear main seal and oil slinger removal and installation, but that stuff is stupid expensive.

Like previously stated, carefully inspect the end of the Crankshaft for any imperfections.

Thanks for the advice, hopefully the crankshaft is good to go. This whole thing is frustrating because I can rebuild a 3650 in my sleep but can't get this leak fixed. Waiting on a couple more parts to come in and then a new clutch, TOB, rebuilt 3650, and a few other things are going in. I even bought that silly MMR billet rear main seal cover for hopefully better luck this time around.

There is an aftermarket tool option that saves you >$100. The seal and slinger installer combo is around $220. ST-200 & ST-201 are the part numbers.

I haven't started anything yet, but I was browsing rockauto for some other stuff I need and came across a crankshaft rear repair sleeve. If my crankshaft is gouged deep enough would this sleeve be used to fix the problem? Anybody have any first hand experience having to use one???
There are 4 different options for this one. The most expensive is SKF 99362 for $34.79. Here is the example pic from rock auto.