Piston discussion

msvela448

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302's don't have fast ecu's and knock sensors. Also I don't get what was just said.
Doesn't matter how fast the ecu is... At least one (pre) detonation has to occur for even the fastest ecu to detect it... If it is severe enough the damage is already done. The tune is the key, and forged pistons are the insurance.

Below is a link to probably the most thorough build thread I've ever seen... And below is an excerpt from it:

http://www.modularfords.com/showthread.php?t=236857

"FWIW, the time lapse between the onset of detonation and engine failure was 800 milliseconds — less than a second. Even if it were possible to hear the initial sounds of the detonation (which it is not) it would still be impossible to get your foot out in time to save the engine. For a frame of reference, at 7200 rpm your engine will make 120 turns of the crankshaft in 1 second and produce 60 ignition events."

That being said... Saleen and Roush supercharge factory shortblocks with hyperutectic pistons, stock rods, and stock cranks, but the tune is as good, if not better, than Ford factory calibration... and only the entry and mid level cars keep the factory shortblocks (up to about 500hp).

The high end cars (like Saleen's Black / Extreme editions) get all forged internals (making up to 725hp). I know at one point Saleen used CP Pistons (2618 alloy) Kellogg forged steel cranks, and Manley H-beam rods.

Even Ford used forged Zollner pistons, Manley H-beam rods and forged 8-bolt cranks in their supercharged cars (Terminator Cobra comes to mind).

Boosted, high compression, engines need forged rotating assemblies for the added "forgiveness" they offer.

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Juice

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You sure you don't have TRW forged pistons? What year was the original 5.0 that let go, it also likely had TRW forged pistons...

Not sure of the year, I purchased a complete NEW (not a 306) shortblock and built it up. The specs clearly stated: hypereutectic pistons, stock bore, E cam, cast crank, 2 bolt main.

The cylinder that let go was #8 (driver's side rear) This is the cylinder that usually gets hurt in a fox body from fuel starvation because it is the "last in line" to get fuel from the fuel rail. So I believe it was a combination of issues that aligned on that dreadful day.

To get the car back up and running ASAP, I just went with the GT40 crate 302. Switched to Sunoco ultra only, and built a safer tune. And it has been almost flawless since.

So, yes, I'm doing what I advised against (boost on hypers). And I had to replace #8 in the crate engine due to an electrical gremlin I was chasing for a while with the ignition. Broke a ringland and cracked a piston skirt, but it didn't let go....but that is another story.
 
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01yellerCobra

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Facts please, because I have read all the posts and negative info and most is regurgitation of 10 years ago. Aside from the known issues now rectified, many of the people named didn't even have an MMR block, and instead bought a rotating assembly, and after blowing it from a fault of the builder, tuner, or pushing the motor beyond the initial intended specs, decided to blame MMR. I've seen multiple replies on forums from Mark offering to make it right. If I have a problem, we'll take care of it then, but Mark and Greg have been great to deal with. Aside from that, out of the many people I now know with built motors, some have been running an MMR motor for years without issue.
There was even a long drawn-out post that used a member as an example customer with a poor experience, but the member chimed in to clarify that it was a different motor that blew and his MMR motor had been running strong for years. "Misinformation strikes yet again."

They are also building Mo Makki's motor to take Trump to another record. I'm happy to give them a chance, and as I said, if there is a problem, I'll deal with it then.
Also, consider this: In Upstate NY, we have a phenomenal motor builder that told me he is done doing any more boosted applications, because after a solid record of 30+ years in the industry, he has had repeated tuners blow his motors on a dyno resulting in furious customers that blame him.

Hope this info helps.
The facts I have are personal experience. Not my personal engine, but 3 buddies that had issues. First one was built for boost, never saw boost, and ended up in boxes in my garage when it ate 3 bearings and tore up a crank.

Second was a big bore stroker in a Mach 1. Didn't even have 1000 miles when he went to start it after work and there was no oil pressure. I will give credit to MMR for handling that one gracefully. But they didn't have a choice as they pulled the original engine, built the BB/S, and installed it. They didn't have anyone to point fingers at.

Third was a long block they built. When the valve train started ticking they claimed the mechanic that put the valve covers on put too much RTV and a piece of RTV made it from the top of the cylinder head, down to the oil pan, through the pick up screen, through the filter, and blocked one of the oil galleries in the head. They took my buddy for another few hundred claiming both heads had to be rebuilt because of it.

I do know of another engine they built in a 96 GT vert. But I lost contact with that guy a few years ago. However, I do know after a few dyno runs that car became a shelf in his garage. But to be fair I don't know if that was the tuner or MMR.

Those are just the engines that were actually in my driveway and I talked to those guys regularly. When I was in the local Mustang club there were a few more that has MMR built engines and they all had issies at some point. The shop everyone used stopped installing them. For a while at least. But those others were just people I'd run into at a cruise or get together.

So yeah, I have some facts. And I don't regurgitate what other people say. Maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones and your engine will live. But going by past experience you'll need a new one sooner than later.
 
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raredesign

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The facts I have are personal experience. Not my personal engine, but 3 buddies that had issues.

I don’t want to hijack this gentlemen’s thread about pistons and go off on tangents, but want to clarify some things, because it is beneficial to the community and how we can all benefit going forward.

Please note, I have a thread started for a rather large build in progress, and will be posting everything done throughout, products used, and experiences had.

I know we often go off of the experience of others, whether friends or what we read, but that is weighted differently than personal experience, because there is often more to the story. We honestly don’t know from what is mentioned below if your friends did something that rested on their responsibility. People are more apt to complain and vent online, than if they have a good experience, which is sad. This results in thousands of successful stories unreported, and a handful of allegedly terrible situations reported. I can attest to this as a business owner that bends over backwards for customers, but unfortunately, some people just want to start trouble.

First one was built for boost, never saw boost, and ended up in boxes in my garage when it ate 3 bearings and tore up a crank.

As in the journals were not line-honed correctly or there was a thrust bearing issue from hard downshifting?

Second was a big bore stroker in a Mach 1. Didn't even have 1000 miles when he went to start it after work and there was no oil pressure. I will give credit to MMR for handling that one gracefully. But they didn't have a choice as they pulled the original engine, built the BB/S, and installed it. They didn't have anyone to point fingers at.

I’m glad they stood by it, and sometimes mistakes happen or parts are defective. It could have been a rear crank seal or anything.

Third was a long block they built. When the valve train started ticking they claimed the mechanic that put the valve covers on put too much RTV and a piece of RTV made it from the top of the cylinder head, down to the oil pan, through the pick up screen, through the filter, and blocked one of the oil galleries in the head. They took my buddy for another few hundred claiming both heads had to be rebuilt because of it.

It sounds like they were properly sceptic though, if RTV started up top. Where else would it have been used if not for the timing cover? That’s a tough situation for anyone and any business, and your local dealer or even a lawn mower shop would give just as much of a raised eyebrow.

I do know of another engine they built in a 96 GT vert. But I lost contact with that guy a few years ago. However, I do know after a few dyno runs that car became a shelf in his garage. But to be fair I don't know if that was the tuner or MMR.

As you acknowledged, it could have been the tuner, and that validates my concern that these forums are often filled with stories that more than often are effectively banter, producing no true discernibly logical conclusion. It has certainly made my research on this build extremely painful and drawn out.

Those are just the engines that were actually in my driveway and I talked to those guys regularly. When I was in the local Mustang club there were a few more that has MMR built engines and they all had issies at some point. The shop everyone used stopped installing them. For a while at least. But those others were just people I'd run into at a cruise or get together.

So yeah, I have some facts. And I don't regurgitate what other people say. Maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones and your engine will live. But going by past experience you'll need a new one sooner than later.

I do appreciate you sharing, but wanted to follow up with those clarifications. Again it is hard when we all know there are two sides to a story, and customers are truly not always honest when trying to get something out of a situation that they know they messed up. It muddies the water, if you will.

Anyway, I will be posting all details in my thread, and I am very active in Facebook groups etc, so if anyone is curious feel free to reach out to me. The build is in progress, and I hope to report very good things, but honest things nonetheless.

MMR has and does help many, and deserves the opportunity to clear any stale air. Stay tuned.


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CammedS197

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Any forged off the shelf piston that maintains the stock C/R will get the job done at the stated power level goal. In fact, I am sure the factory hypereutectic pistons would get the job done with a tune that doesn't make the engine run too lean and detonate.

Guys are making 700+ whp in Coyotes with hyper pistons. GT500's have hyper pistons. The piston is not the problem. It's the tune and/or the gas used. Get bad gas on a tune that's too close to the edge and.....BOOM.
Hmm I did not know that at all. I thought the coyotes had forged.



MMR sells Manley, and if you’re set on using the stock crank, perhaps this is worth a look.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=765

They are building my 1500se billet rod motor with all the bells and whistles.

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Hmm thanks! That's a damn good deal! I will call them and see if they can do this with a set of 4032 forged pistons. Don't need or want 2618 forged due to will never make that power and I daily the car and will still daily after built. But If they can do that I would most certainly jump on this deal!


Well I'll take all these options to Lito and talk with him. If he says I can go stock pistons and safe tune at 500-550rwhp then I'm game for that. But also keep in mind that I do need to be able to run on 87 for hurricane time on low boost. I guess the stock bottom end and 8-10psi will let me know how it will do on 87 before I build it. But I will talk about Mahel, weisco, and manley 4032 forged and hyper pistons along with goals with compression which the compression will come down to the piston deal I can get.
 

raredesign

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Hmm I did not know that at all. I thought the coyotes had forged.

Hmm thanks! That's a damn good deal! I will call them and see if they can do this with a set of 4032 forged pistons. Don't need or want 2618 forged due to will never make that power and I daily the car and will still daily after built. But If they can do that I would most certainly jump on this deal!

Well I'll take all these options to Lito and talk with him. If he says I can go stock pistons and safe tune at 500-550rwhp then I'm game for that. But also keep in mind that I do need to be able to run on 87 for hurricane time on low boost. I guess the stock bottom end and 8-10psi will let me know how it will do on 87 before I build it. But I will talk about Mahel, weisco, and manley 4032 forged and hyper pistons along with goals with compression which the compression will come down to the piston deal I can get.

Are you concerned with the cold-start slap, or something else?
From what I’ve read, 4032 doesn’t hold up well to the extra heat.


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Badd GT

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fairly certain the 03-04 terminator Cobra's with the Manley forged rods came with Mahle 4032 pistons. Its not only the piston slap on startup, but oil consumption and longevity, the Mahle will outlast the 2618 forging by a longshot, I believe the Mahle is limited to about 15-16 lbs boost while the 2618 can go much higher.
 
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msvela448

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If the engine is built properly, with proper tolerances, you will NOT have piston slap, or oil consumption, or longevity issues. The clearances in Sean Hyland's book on building High Performance 4.6 L engines are dead on and you will have zero issues.

However, if you hone the block a few thousandths but use stock bore size pistons and oversized rings to take up the slack you will have all of the above issues.

You can run the piston to wall clearances pretty tight on our aluminum blocks, even with 2618 pistons because the expansion rates are similar. Furthermore the cooling system works very well... It is very hard to overheat a modern Mustang so there is much less to worry about with overheating cylinders.

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Badd GT

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If the engine is built properly, with proper tolerances, you will NOT have piston slap, or oil consumption, or longevity issues. The clearances in Sean Hyland's book on building High Performance 4.6 L engines are dead on and you will have zero issues.

However, if you hone the block a few thousandths but use stock bore size pistons and oversized rings to take up the slack you will have all of the above issues.

You can run the piston to wall clearances pretty tight on our aluminum blocks, even with 2618 pistons because the expansion rates are similar. Furthermore the cooling system works very well... It is very hard to overheat a modern Mustang so there is much less to worry about with overheating cylinders.

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is that how you did your engine build?
 

01yellerCobra

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It sounds like they were properly sceptic though, if RTV started up top. Where else would it have been used if not for the timing cover? That’s a tough situation for anyone and any business, and your local dealer or even a lawn mower shop would give just as much of a raised eyebrow.

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I did read everything you posted, but I wanted to bring notice to this. If you think RTV can make it from the top of the engine and through everything else I posted, well, all I can say is good luck in your build. I really do hope it does everything you ask and more.
 

CammedS197

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Are you concerned with the cold-start slap, or something else?
From what I’ve read, 4032 doesn’t hold up well to the extra heat.


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I have looked into and the 4032 has more longevity and the 2618 wears quicker as well as the cold start ups and piston slap. I want tight tolerances like OEM. I would assume the 4032 is much stronger than the factory hyper pistons and those have been to 550whp. Also I won't be living in my max hp range all the time and won't ever hit more than 15lbs of boost.

Now if they cannot get me a set of 4032 pistons with those rods then its whatever. But I wouldn't pay that price for 4032 pistons. Still might just go molnar rods and find a nice set of 4032 pistons. I don't think the 4032 forged pistons will have issues at my power levels and daily demands.

If the engine is built properly, with proper tolerances, you will NOT have piston slap, or oil consumption, or longevity issues. The clearances in Sean Hyland's book on building High Performance 4.6 L engines are dead on and you will have zero issues.

However, if you hone the block a few thousandths but use stock bore size pistons and oversized rings to take up the slack you will have all of the above issues.

You can run the piston to wall clearances pretty tight on our aluminum blocks, even with 2618 pistons because the expansion rates are similar. Furthermore the cooling system works very well... It is very hard to overheat a modern Mustang so there is much less to worry about with overheating cylinders.

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I agree, but It's just so much more than I will ever need. Also I can get forged 4032 for much less and its still a forged piston. I would use the stock pistons but I do really believe going with the 4032 is a much better choice than the stocks at least lol.
 

tjm73

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You sure you don't have TRW forged pistons? What year was the original 5.0 that let go, it also likely had TRW forged pistons...

1991 was the last year the push rod 302 had forged pistons. In 1992 Ford went to hypers.
 

CammedS197

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I actually still have a set of factory forged 302 pistons but they are .030 bore. Not sure how and why. But came out of my 1990 fox and they are definitely factory. I'll see if I can find them and get pictures. On the factory 302 rods still.
 

RED09GT

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Haven't read through the whole thread but GT500 pistons were hypereutectic until the 2013 model year as well so they can take boost.
Given the choice and the small difference in cost, I would go forged on anything that I build but ford had a lot of faith in hypereutectic pistons. Lightnings also used hypereutectics from the factory.
 

Juice

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I thought the stock Coyote pistons/rotating assembly can safely be put through 580-600whp, if not more?

I'm not risking boost on hypers. Not going to chance destroying this engine. No leaks, does not use any oil, and I want to keep it that way. I am giving up HP in trade for reliability. Track time isn't cheap, and if your car breaks early in the day, you lost the track time. There are no refunds on track events.
 

Juice

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I'm not risking boost on hypers. Not going to chance destroying this engine. No leaks, does not use any oil, and I want to keep it that way. I am giving up HP in trade for reliability. Track time isn't cheap, and if your car breaks early in the day, you lost the track time. There are no refunds on track events.

There is something to be said about factory stock reliability. ;)

I just quoted myself....lol
 
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