I did a thing

RocketcarX

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The rest of the car is pretty much ready, I've spent the last year completing support mods for a power adder, I've bounced back and forth between a blower and the bottle, I even I had a Procharger lined out but Uncle Sam had other ideas there this year.
I'm excited beyond words, obviously the stock short block is my limiting factor, but with the learning curve I have to overcome and the tuning level I'll need to achieve tuning the ECU, trans, and nitrous controller I have a lot to do before I'll be worried about more power.
I still "need" a few minor details as far as fit and finish go, but the core of the build is pretty much all here.
 

RocketcarX

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Hell yeah. No other power adder can bring on torque like nitrous can. Are you tuning it yourself?
I am going to try to, I've done all the tuning on my car so far. I'm by no means an expert, but I do hope master it over time.
I'll start by using a 75 shot so I "can't" blow it up. I'm going to wire the controller to my wideband and use the closed loop feature as well.
With the Quick 4 trans controller I have to build tunes for the trans as well, so really I have to master tuning the car with the stand alone systems as a whole: ECU, trans, and nitrous.
 

Sky Render

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I have kicked around the idea of nitrous. My reasoning is that forced induction like a super- or turbocharger could easily have too much power and too great a heat load for autocross and road race, but nitrous would only be used sometimes, like for occasional drag strip use.

How reliable can the 3V and Coyote be with a 150 shot? Other than the nitrous kit, a tune, and colder plugs, what other supporting mods are needed?
 

46addict

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I have kicked around the idea of nitrous. My reasoning is that forced induction like a super- or turbocharger could easily have too much power and too great a heat load for autocross and road race, but nitrous would only be used sometimes, like for occasional drag strip use.

A Procharger setup has the dedicated drive belt and pulley so the car can be driven without the blower belt if need be. I've had a belt break once and had to order one because no one had 8 rib 67.5" belts locally. I drove the car and it behaved as it should, just with less power and a fatter AFR. I imagine the IATs and underhood temps will be lower this way in a road racing situation. Though the extra 120lbs of weight over the nose is not something you want in a road race car. So nitrous would be a better choice.

A nitrous set up would give you as much reliability as an NA setup. Just inspect the nitrous solenoid every few bottle refills to make sure it isn't seeping gas when the bottle is open, and make sure the fuel solenoid opens on command. I mention nitrous and fuel because my experience is with wet kits. I haven't sprayed beyond a 125 shot on a wet kit but the 125 did not require any fueling mods aside from using a rail adapter to hook up the fuel solenoid.

I am going to try to, I've done all the tuning on my car so far. I'm by no means an expert, but I do hope master it over time.
I'll start by using a 75 shot so I "can't" blow it up. I'm going to wire the controller to my wideband and use the closed loop feature as well.
With the Quick 4 trans controller I have to build tunes for the trans as well, so really I have to master tuning the car with the stand alone systems as a whole: ECU, trans, and nitrous.

Which software are you using for ECU programming? SCT PRP?
 

RocketcarX

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I have kicked around the idea of nitrous. My reasoning is that forced induction like a super- or turbocharger could easily have too much power and too great a heat load for autocross and road race, but nitrous would only be used sometimes, like for occasional drag strip use.

How reliable can the 3V and Coyote be with a 150 shot? Other than the nitrous kit, a tune, and colder plugs, what other supporting mods are needed?
Any V8 can handle 150 shot of nitrous. On the 3v you want a fuel pump upgrade and 1 step colder plugs. With the Coyote I believe the factory fuel system is adequate for most power adders as is.
 

RocketcarX

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A Procharger setup has the dedicated drive belt and pulley so the car can be driven without the blower belt if need be. I've had a belt break once and had to order one because no one had 8 rib 67.5" belts locally. I drove the car and it behaved as it should, just with less power and a fatter AFR. I imagine the IATs and underhood temps will be lower this way in a road racing situation. Though the extra 120lbs of weight over the nose is not something you want in a road race car. So nitrous would be a better choice.

A nitrous set up would give you as much reliability as an NA setup. Just inspect the nitrous solenoid every few bottle refills to make sure it isn't seeping gas when the bottle is open, and make sure the fuel solenoid opens on command. I mention nitrous and fuel because my experience is with wet kits. I haven't sprayed beyond a 125 shot on a wet kit but the 125 did not require any fueling mods aside from using a rail adapter to hook up the fuel solenoid.



Which software are you using for ECU programming? SCT PRP?
Hp Tuners Pro Suite. So far it's been great, there is a learning curve but I've got some great books to help me out along the way.
 

46addict

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How does the software key work? Is it one PCM code per purchase or do they allow more than one code? I'm trying to get into self-tuning as well and curious.
 

Sky Render

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NOS/Holley's Coyote plate kit looks pretty nice and comes with all the hardware and a 2-step controller for $800. But then I'd need to spend another $800 on a purge system, colder plugs, and tune. That's still pretty inexpensive for 150 more horsepower.
 

RocketcarX

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I have to buy credits to unlock the ECU, usually it’s 2 per vehicle. After you accumulate so many you get a master unlock for that type of vehicle.
They break it all down on the website. It’s a great source of info.
 

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NOS/Holley's Coyote plate kit looks pretty nice and comes with all the hardware and a 2-step controller for $800. But then I'd need to spend another $800 on a purge system, colder plugs, and tune. That's still pretty inexpensive for 150 more horsepower.
Plate kits allow for a clean plug and play install but a nozzle injected kit will achieve the same goals. Here's a kit for half the price, and a purge system isn't totally necessary. If I were to prioritize I would get a bottle heater instead. https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=381
 

Pentalab

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I have kicked around the idea of nitrous. My reasoning is that forced induction like a super- or turbocharger could easily have too much power and too great a heat load for autocross and road race, but nitrous would only be used sometimes, like for occasional drag strip use.

How reliable can the 3V and Coyote be with a 150 shot? Other than the nitrous kit, a tune, and colder plugs, what other supporting mods are needed?

LT's, and either a catted H or X plus a 93 tune would provide you with a solid 400rwhp on your 2011 auto. It wouldn't be like a 150 shot... more like a 50 shot. How much more hp do you require for autocross ? How long does a bottle of nitrous last ?
 

702GT

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The more you can afford to spend on nitrous toys the nicer it will be. Been down that road. By the time you get done spending on setting up all the nitrous bling the way you want it, you'll be into it the cost of FI, but you'll still be filling a bottle (or two). 150 shot is entry level blower. P1SC, V2SQ, 2200SL will all give you that right out of the gate with room to grow.

If you have the discipline and restraint to just run a simple nitrous kit with a fuel pump upgrade, and use it as intended, you can make good power and be punishing on the track. A basic kit has serious limitations and inconsistencies, however. I haven't met anyone who played with nitrous that ever stopped at a "kit." I bought my kit used from this forum, he started with nitrous and kept adding on until he realized the next step was blower money, ended up selling the kit for a fraction of its retail, nitrous parts are probably the worst for depreciation. Even having acquired my kit for 1/4 the retail cost, I still sunk more and more money into it, tailoring the setup to my needs. It wasn't enough having a bottle in the trunk. I needed remote access to the bottle, so I could turn it on and off on the fly. ($Cha-Ching$). Now I had supply on demand, but I still had to wait for the bottle to cook to 1100psi before it was efficient, this wouldn't do. Enter the piggy-back system using a Nitrogen bottle to pressurize the Nitrous bottle. I now had two bottles to fill with two entirely different gases. Another mounting setup, slew of fittings and lines. ($$Cha-Ching$$). For a while I had gotten away with running the stock fuel pump on a BAP to bridge the gap for fuel. Now that I had instant bottle pressure whenever I wanted, I needed to make sure the fuel spikes didn't kill the motor. Only a dedicated fuel supply would do... and if it's going to be dedicated, why not bump the octane up to 100 just for good measure. 1 gallon fuel cell, in-line fuel pump, return-style with fuel regulator fed to the fuel solenoid, more wiring and electronics, custom fuel jetting. ($$$Cha-Ching$$$). Now I had 125 shot on demand. As long as nitrous was in the bottle, it was always there, whenever I wanted at the drop of a hat. WRX Psssh at me, I Psshhh right back. Camaro start putting a door on me, grab the switch, tables turned. I could get about 13-15 good solid uses out of a standard nitrous bottle thanks to the piggy-back system, nitrous was good to the last drop and bottle pressure was *always* 1100psi from start to finish, unlike the bottle heater method. Had the setup for about 2 months, went to hit it for giggles one night on the way home and got nothing but 100 octane and nitrogen, LOL. Saw a Procharger D1SC kit on craigslist for $2200, ($1200 less than what I had into my nitrous setup) said, "No more renting power." Mind you, all the nitrous toys stayed in the car even after the blower was installed, I always figured if I ever *really* wanted a hit of the bottle crack, it was still there. Never did though. 485wtq was always plenty. Always there. Consistent.

A nitrous kit with a 150 shot is just the tip of the iceberg.
 

RocketcarX

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The more you can afford to spend on nitrous toys the nicer it will be. Been down that road. By the time you get done spending on setting up all the nitrous bling the way you want it, you'll be into it the cost of FI, but you'll still be filling a bottle (or two). 150 shot is entry level blower. P1SC, V2SQ, 2200SL will all give you that right out of the gate with room to grow.

If you have the discipline and restraint to just run a simple nitrous kit with a fuel pump upgrade, and use it as intended, you can make good power and be punishing on the track. A basic kit has serious limitations and inconsistencies, however. I haven't met anyone who played with nitrous that ever stopped at a "kit." I bought my kit used from this forum, he started with nitrous and kept adding on until he realized the next step was blower money, ended up selling the kit for a fraction of its retail, nitrous parts are probably the worst for depreciation. Even having acquired my kit for 1/4 the retail cost, I still sunk more and more money into it, tailoring the setup to my needs. It wasn't enough having a bottle in the trunk. I needed remote access to the bottle, so I could turn it on and off on the fly. ($Cha-Ching$). Now I had supply on demand, but I still had to wait for the bottle to cook to 1100psi before it was efficient, this wouldn't do. Enter the piggy-back system using a Nitrogen bottle to pressurize the Nitrous bottle. I now had two bottles to fill with two entirely different gases. Another mounting setup, slew of fittings and lines. ($$Cha-Ching$$). For a while I had gotten away with running the stock fuel pump on a BAP to bridge the gap for fuel. Now that I had instant bottle pressure whenever I wanted, I needed to make sure the fuel spikes didn't kill the motor. Only a dedicated fuel supply would do... and if it's going to be dedicated, why not bump the octane up to 100 just for good measure. 1 gallon fuel cell, in-line fuel pump, return-style with fuel regulator fed to the fuel solenoid, more wiring and electronics, custom fuel jetting. ($$$Cha-Ching$$$). Now I had 125 shot on demand. As long as nitrous was in the bottle, it was always there, whenever I wanted at the drop of a hat. WRX Psssh at me, I Psshhh right back. Camaro start putting a door on me, grab the switch, tables turned. I could get about 13-15 good solid uses out of a standard nitrous bottle thanks to the piggy-back system, nitrous was good to the last drop and bottle pressure was *always* 1100psi from start to finish, unlike the bottle heater method. Had the setup for about 2 months, went to hit it for giggles one night on the way home and got nothing but 100 octane and nitrogen, LOL. Saw a Procharger D1SC kit on craigslist for $2200, ($1200 less than what I had into my nitrous setup) said, "No more renting power." Mind you, all the nitrous toys stayed in the car even after the blower was installed, I always figured if I ever *really* wanted a hit of the bottle crack, it was still there. Never did though. 485wtq was always plenty. Always there. Consistent.

A nitrous kit with a 150 shot is just the tip of the iceberg.

At this point my car is a purpose built racer, not my daily driver, I don't need things like a bottle heater in the car or a remote bottle opener. I have a two bottle bracket, I'm prolly gonna swap it fro a single because I don't really need to carry two bottles in the car a once, just dead weight.
I doubt I have much more than 2k in this whole set up including the nitrous transfer station. A F1 Procharger is like 8K all said and done and thats before tuning and fuel modifications.
My feel system is an AEM 1000 pump with the S&H wiring upgrade and -8an line from the tank to the fuel rail, maybe $250 invested all told and I have more overhead than guys with the GT500 upgrade fuel kit.
Remember I'm on stock injectors and haven't had to mess with running crazy fuel pressure to compensate for boost.
I've never heard of nitrogen to push the nitrous, thats interesting to say the least!

Mostly I'm fulfilling my dream to have a simple, nitrous powered American muscle car. Later I have a plan for a large cubic inch 3v. I know I could go faster with boost, but it isn't my interest.
 

01yellerCobra

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I'm curious about tuning a nitrous car and how it differs from a supercharged set up. Please keep us posted when you start.
 

Sky Render

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I'm curious about tuning a nitrous car and how it differs from a supercharged set up. Please keep us posted when you start.

I know you put in colder plugs and retard the timing.

I'm curious how the nitrous tune works when you're not on the bottle.
 

01yellerCobra

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I know you put in colder plugs and retard the timing.

I'm curious how the nitrous tune works when you're not on the bottle.
I think the ideal situation there would be a flip chip. For my buddies charger he has to add the timing back in when he knows he won't be running the bottle for a bit.
 

RocketcarX

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I have HP Tuners, but I'm hesitant to tune it myself on the bottle. Im putting cams in first so I'm going to tune the cams, and if I have good luck with that I may move on to pulling 4 degreses out and running a 75 shot without involving Lito which required me to purchase a SCT4 in order to load his tunes and data log for his revisions.
I would work my way to the max 125 or 150hp jetting if the car is happy and the power levels aren't too high for my stock bottom end.
I've had great luck tuning the car N/A, but this is all a learning experience for me. I'm going to start small and try to stay out of the danger zone until I fully understand the issues a nitrous car has to overcome in order to be "safe".
I still have to set up the ProMax nitrous controller and get my trans tune on point with the new 4.30 gears and cams.
You guys have really been great with these discussions, 702GT I see you in my searches all the time, lol.

I've already built my base cam tune, had to do the IMRC delete and gears in the tune at the same time.
 

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