Fuel pump differences through 2005 and up

I have the occasional severe hesitation with my 05 GT. Specially after highway cruise but also in town, push the pedal half way down and the car falls on its face hard for a split second and then goes with a jerk like some uncomfortable VTEC.

Looking at the TSB, I suspect my pump more than any plug, coil or MAF.

When searching pumps both Bosch and motorcraft have different part#s for 2005 cars or 2006_2009. Are they really different or would I be able to use a later model and be better of?

I would test or monitor fuel pressure while driving before throwing parts at it.

This is the pump I like as a stock replacement, it is good for at least double the stock horsepower, won't hurt the factory wiring, and is super reliable. Make sure to change to a 20 amp fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-50-1000-...F8&qid=1524466691&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+50-1000

I sadly sold my x4 when I sold my terminator a few years ago. Are there any android apps that let you monitor FP and FPDC?

Is that AEM pump plug and play on the factory plugs and fuel connectors? Interesting piece, thanks!

You really need to look at FPDC and also fuel rail pressure. Is the fuel filter ok ? Another thing that can cause grief is the 'sock' that goes over the bottom of the oem fuel pump. If the sock is clogged up from debris floating around the bottom of the tank, eng will gag when you put your foot into it. I had exactly that happen, but only when I tried to get into boost. FPDC wnet sky high, and fuel rail pressure dropped from it's usual 40 pis...down to just 5-6 psi. In NA mode, out of boost, everything was just fine.

Being a 2005, and 13 years old, I suspect your oem fuel pump is starting to let go.

I would start with a filter, only a couple € and easy to change

I will change the filter too, although service history sais its been done 3 years ago. But I dont think even a severly clogged filter will cause it to fall completely on its face and accelerate a split second later.

i had a clogged filter a couple years back and it caused the symptoms your having. Not saying thats the problem but for $10 it costs to replace on, its a good start

I have this intermittently as well. I don't think it's the filter, as I've changed it when it first started and resumed not too long after (but maybe I just have a lot of crud in my tank?). Could be the sock on the pump, but I doubt that too. For me it only happens after shifting - WOT, let off throttle, clutch in, shift, clutch out, WOT...dead zone for a split second...then a very jerky resumption of WOT. If I'm smoother going to WOT (that is, not completely stomping on it), it usually doesn't do it. It happened after installing my supercharger, GT500 pumps, bigger injectors, etc., so it's tough to pinpoint what it could be. I haven't diagnosed it, and I'm not really sure how...I just live with it as my interest in fucking with cars is waning.

Bingo said:

I have this intermittently as well. I don't think it's the filter, as I've changed it when it first started and resumed not too long after (but maybe I just have a lot of crud in my tank?). Could be the sock on the pump, but I doubt that too. For me it only happens after shifting - WOT, let off throttle, clutch in, shift, clutch out, WOT...dead zone for a split second...then a very jerky resumption of WOT. If I'm smoother going to WOT (that is, not completely stomping on it), it usually doesn't do it. It happened after installing my supercharger, GT500 pumps, bigger injectors, etc., so it's tough to pinpoint what it could be. I haven't diagnosed it, and I'm not really sure how...I just live with it as my interest in fucking with cars is waning.

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Do your pumps still have the PPRV in tact?

46addict said:

Do your pumps still have the PPRV in tact?

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I had to Google what that is. I assume you're suggesting I delete the PPRV? It's a completely unaltered FRPP twin pump setup.

I do believe people delete the valve for the symptoms you're speaking of. The problem that OP is having may be from a different cause, as there is some fault in the 2005 GT pumps that warranted a TSB.

You mentioned not wanting to mess it with though and found a workaround, so it may be best to leave well enough alone. Deleting the PPRV has its pros and cons. For one, getting rid of it will bleed off fuel pressure at the pump when the engine is off, which could cause starting issues. So you decide what's more important to you.

46addict said:

I do believe people delete the valve for the symptoms you're speaking of. The problem that OP is having may be from a different cause, as there is some fault in the 2005 GT pumps that warranted a TSB.

You mentioned not wanting to mess it with though and found a workaround, so it may be best to leave well enough alone. Deleting the PPRV has its pros and cons. For one, getting rid of it will bleed off fuel pressure at the pump when the engine is off, which could cause starting issues. So you decide what's more important to you.

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Well, I'm glad you said something. I didn't want to throw parts at it or get a new tune just to have it still do the same problem. From some quick reading on other forums, it looks like this does cause the problem I'm experiencing.

And as far as my workaround...it's like having a giant hole in your kitchen floor and putting plywood over it and ignoring it. Not ideal. Now I just need to find the time and motivation to do something about it.

Thank you.

The other option is to no-lift shift as commanded fuel rail pressure won't change in between shifts if you do that, but at the expense of your transmission.

Thanks for all the replies. Can anyone confirm that 05 and later pumps are physically different?

Screamin_dutch said:

Thanks for all the replies. Can anyone confirm that 05 and later pumps are physically different?

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The aftermarket drop in pumps fit all the years the same

RocketcarX said:

I would test or monitor fuel pressure while driving before throwing parts at it.

This is the pump I like as a stock replacement, it is good for at least double the stock horsepower, won't hurt the factory wiring, and is super reliable. Make sure to change to a 20 amp fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-50-1000-...F8&qid=1524466691&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+50-1000

Click to expand...

Those pumps are/were good when they were good, and were def the best option when they came out comapred to ther other overseas made 320-340lph pumps. They seemed like a solid choice and intially had great success. They are medium current (over double stock current) and def should have uprgaded wiring to the driver module when ran. Now that we have about 5 years of data on them, looks like they are overall a miss. Too many overheat and shorting issues and premature flow loss from excessive brush wear in the motor. After about a year of regular use if they hadnt failed yet they seemed to be a time bomb. This is aggravated when you just slap in a bigger fuse and dont't reduce current with better wiring. I removed them from my system and no longer use them in my kits, Fore does not offer or carry them anymore either for the quality/reliability reasons. The solution for more flow from a small in tank pump turned out not be a hotter motor stuffed in the case but the dual turbine pickup single stage pumps that ti automotive introduced.

Bingo said:

I have this intermittently as well. I don't think it's the filter, as I've changed it when it first started and resumed not too long after (but maybe I just have a lot of crud in my tank?). Could be the sock on the pump, but I doubt that too. For me it only happens after shifting - WOT, let off throttle, clutch in, shift, clutch out, WOT...dead zone for a split second...then a very jerky resumption of WOT. If I'm smoother going to WOT (that is, not completely stomping on it), it usually doesn't do it. It happened after installing my supercharger, GT500 pumps, bigger injectors, etc., so it's tough to pinpoint what it could be. I haven't diagnosed it, and I'm not really sure how...I just live with it as my interest in fucking with cars is waning.

Click to expand...

Your issues to me sounds like a load/tune thing shifting from closed to open loop one the o2's.



As for the talk of the 3v/gt500 pprv valve, I have never seen an issue personally with it causing an issue and is a much better design than the previsou years. The gt500 one is actually a tad better as it has it own external pressure relief dump back into the tank and has dual path so not all flow from both pumps actually goes through the valve. The valve itself is a just a simple spring/ball backflow valve with seat its just deigned to hold fuel in the line and slowly release pressure when the car is off to make cold starting easier. The only thing to look at for deleting the pprv is trying to edge out a little more flow potential as you push past 650rwhp on a returnless system and thats simpley because your removing a restriction since the internal valve seat is about 6mm diameter in the valve.



For the op, your description most definetely sounds like the 05-06 fuel pump tsb. Yes the fuel pump itself was revised late 06 for the 07 model year with a new part number. The level sender sender design also changed from a metal body to a gray plastic body at the same time. In 2010 the level sender changed resistance reading. So anything 05-09 is directly swappable.

I would not run any aftermarket brand fuel hat for the 3v, especially sprectre brand, poor quality pump and level senders and most always turns into a headache. you want to retain the oem fuel hat and oem pump on it if you just need a stock replacment for a mild na bolt-on setup.


I have a box full of working 07-09 oem pumps, I save any that have 30-40k miles or less from a hat when I upgrade it to an aftermarket pump just for cases like this when someone needs one. If you want one let me know, just pay shipping and I will send you one, including submersible fuel hose and clamps to install it after removing your old pump. Swapping the pump out on the hat is super easy and I can walk you through that as well.

Wow Jeremy, thanks for all the information, and answering my original question! I will gladly take you up on the offer for a used stock pump. The engine is mostly stock, and I just want something reliable so this issue doesnt develop into some thing more serious when I road trip to Le Mans this June.

I will contact you through PM

JeremyH said:

Those pumps are/were good when they were good, and were def the best option when they came out comapred to ther other overseas made 320-340lph pumps. They seemed like a solid choice and intially had great success. They are medium current (over double stock current) and def should have uprgaded wiring to the driver module when ran. Now that we have about 5 years of data on them, looks like they are overall a miss. Too many overheat and shorting issues and premature flow loss from excessive brush wear in the motor. After about a year of regular use if they hadnt failed yet they seemed to be a time bomb. This is aggravated when you just slap in a bigger fuse and dont't reduce current with better wiring. I removed them from my system and no longer use them in my kits, Fore does not offer or carry them anymore either for the quality/reliability reasons. The solution for more flow from a small in tank pump turned out not be a hotter motor stuffed in the case but the dual turbine pickup single stage pumps that ti automotive introduced.

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Well this is a bummer. Besides GT500 pumps and BAPs, what options are there left for pump upgrades on returnless systems? A local shop owner said DW pumps are not designed to work with stock returnless systems and suffer from the same problems you're mentioning. If there is any truth in that, DW is also out.

I upgraded the oem wiring. New wire is 10 gauge... and runs from battery post, then fuse... then to spare tire well. FPDC dropped a bunch... like 10-12%. No need for a BAP.

I believe the dual GT-500 pumps used bigger wire as well. Dual GT-500 pumps with a dual BAP setup, sucks 40A @ wot...which is a bunch. 8 gauge wire will handle 40A CCS, but you will still get a V drop. 6 gauge, or parallel 8 gauge would be the ticket..but that is a one off extreme case..and ot here.

Pentalab said:

I upgraded the oem wiring. New wire is 10 gauge... and runs from battery post, then fuse... then to spare tire well. FPDC dropped a bunch... like 10-12%. No need for a BAP.

I believe the dual GT-500 pumps used bigger wire as well. Dual GT-500 pumps with a dual BAP setup, sucks 40A @ wot...which is a bunch. 8 gauge wire will handle 40A CCS, but you will still get a V drop. 6 gauge, or parallel 8 gauge would be the ticket..but that is a one off extreme case..and ot here.

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And how much horsepower is this feeding?