4.6 Rouchcharged engine temps?

Pentalab

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Just got back from a little cruise, a little cooler temps here today at about 70* my engine temp did not go over 190* usually stayed about 180, which is great, trans temp stayed at 150. Can't believe how those couple changes we did lowered the temp. My mechanic was quite surprised as well. He didn't think it would make that big of a change.

I will look at boost to see if increase next time I drive it and can get on it. I have a 2.49 pulley and is normally about 9lbs.

I use Valvoline 5-30 full synthetic, it's what it came with from Roush. I've been a faithful Valvoline user for 50+ years, never had an engine parts issue ever and vehicles with over 300,000 miles, so I'm hesitant to try anything else. I try to always use Fram filters. I am however considering switching to waterless coolant.

I don't have a catch can, could never find one to fit my car, nobody makes one for the 2010 with a M90. I 've got 50,000+ miles and never had an issue without it. Puffs out a little cloud of blue smoke once and a while when I start it, but it's never fouled my plugs or anything. Don't have any of the issues you described. At this point don't know why I'd need one.

If I need to boost my octane, say for a track day, I add this to get me between 93-95 ocatane.

http://race-gas.com/

IF you ever remove the M90 from the roush aluminum manifold, you will see oil from one end to the other. Dimora posted all the pix, when he swapped his M90 to a Roush TVS-2300. You get the same thing with a TVS-2300 too. The only fix was the catch can. I used a JLT but any brand catch can will work on the 2010. Output hose on catch can goes to blower elbow on the M90. One of the fellows on the roush forum used a Fram filter on his new ( blown) roush 2012. Filter clogged itself one day, with some internal fram filter defect, then no oil could circulate through the eng....and the Fram filter did not go into bypass mode either. With no oil circulation, he lost the eng. Tried a warranty claim, and Ford rejected it outright. The FRPP filter is all we use. 50% heavier than oem , and 60% more media inside. Will withstand a lot of heat, and high pressure, and uses high temp silicone rubber gasket. The FRPP is what's supplied on the GT-500's. Buy em in 6 packs.

Don't mess with waterless coolant, like Evans. It's snake oil. It's basicly 100% glycol. Boiling point of 100% glycol is sky high, and even more since it's under 10-15 psi pressure. 100% glycol doesn't extract heat like water does, or a 50-50 mix of water /glycol. Sure it won't boil, but it doesn't extract heat worth a damn. Then you end up with sky high CHT (cyl head temps). Poof, there goes the eng. 3 folks here in town lost engs using waterless coolant. That was 6 years ago, and not mustangs, but bmw /honda / gm.
 

Pentalab

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M90 @ 8lbs of boost.
94 fuel
20.5 degree of timing at the end of the spark table
making 438/438tq
Idle is 120-130 in traffic
Cruising 100-120
If I smash the gas it drops a good 20degreeF especially when I do a full 3rd 4th gear pull.
Local folks have seen my live stream XD I go pretty hard beat me how the car still run mint after 2 year, oil changes and only changing the spark plugs early :p(50k on them)

I'm assuming you mean IAT. I get the same results with my M90 and 5.8 to 6.3 psi boost. Mash the gas and iat drops like a rock. Drop down some gears, and / or apply enough gas pedal so it's not into boost..or just 0-2 psi of boost, it still drops like a rock. With the higher rpms, the air is going through there so fast, it doesn't have time to pick up heat from the hot aluminum manifold.

I have the smaller 2.55" pulley and mating 90mm larger idler for my M90, but never installed em. I tried plan B, and instead installed JBA ceramic lt's and hi-flow catted H. I end up with 10 hp less..vs using the smaller pulley. But I ended up with more tq.. and esp at the bottom /mid range. It all works, but ceramic coated LT's and new catted H is a lot more $$ vs a simple pulley swap. Previously I had installed the FRPP twin 62mm TB, K+N panel filter, and also a 94 octane tune from VMP, which resulted in a marginal improvement at best. Folks who have installed the 2.49" pulley + LT's typ end up with 460 rwhp..which is a bunch. at that that point
everything is maxed out.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Found this on the two different glycols commonly used in antifreeze. Pay particular attention to chart number 2. as it indicates, the addition of glycol in water requires an increase in flow (volume) to remove the same amount of heat per area as 100% water alone. As you will note this increase depending upon which glycol version you are using will require flow to increase from 13% to as high as 21% at a 50/50 mix depending on which glycol (ethylene or propylene) you are using in your mixture. Keep this in mind when working on your problem. Antifreeze is less conductive to heat than water.

The reference below is with regard to Table 2 and the basics of page one. Automotive coolants may have additional additives for lubrication and corrosion prevention which may add to this factor. Just trying to give some general reference to how much less conductive higher mixes of "coolant" to water can be verses 100% water when it can be run in this manner. Use as would be conducive to your local outside air temps will allow with respect to winter sub freezing conditions.

http://www.veoliawatertech.com/crownsolutions/ressources/documents/2/21823,Glycol.pdf
 

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