If I remember correctly, the one time I looked at boost on my 2015 2.7, wide open accelerating, I saw my boost dropping after 4000 rpm. Just loses torque at higher rpm so there isn't much top end power. I think peak 17 psi was around 3000 rpm?
Using a single bevel weld joint and drill/tap through the center so there is no discontinuities? I would be surprised if there is a significant difference in displacement of the knock sensors due to a welded on boss vs cast. I'm not a scientist, just an engineer.
On your recommendation, we started watching Love Death & Robots last night. Love it. Odd mix of weird, uncomfortable, and amusing short stories. Not going to lie, can't wait to watch more tonight.
Wish this thread took off... Was just thinking of putting an Arduino board in between a vac/boost sensor and the GT500 boost gauge pin(s). Like the OP, don't know what type of signal the gauge would require. Any new knowledge of the GT500 boost gauge signal would be appreciated.
Am I the only one that hits 6500 rpm every time I drive the car to work? Hey I run that combo with long tubes and its fun, reliable, and uhh not that fast. My recommendation would be to stick with the stock manifold and TB unless you are going to use that high rpm HP gain. I have another FRPP...
I have a friend who has been running one of them ching chong Harbor Freight TIG machines for a few years. Still works...
Personally I run a Millermatic 211. Its a MIG machine that has a plug adapter to run off 120vac or 240vac. I also run a 2nd bottle of pure argon for the spool gun to MIG...
Hows abouts one of them there solar powered, motion activated, LED walkway lights? In the past, they really sucked, but the light output now is actually useful. Or just one of those little pancake motion activated lights...
Agree with 3.73 tending to be noisy. You can sometimes get away without using a new crush sleeve if all you're doing is changing a pinion seal or flange. Proper preload on the bearings is defined in running torque. I use a 1/4" drive beam style torque wrench when I set it up. You want to...
Pretty much the same setup here. Low RPM drivability was sacrificed for a mild improvement at top end. Pretty much anything over 1500 rpm purrs smoothly for me though... All in the tune.
A fix could be engineered... As mentioned, you really want to clean the surrounding Al well. TIG welding process is a must imho. Forget which wave pattern is ideal, but of sine, square, and saw tooth, one is better for cleaning with high frequency. Would suggest a 100% efficient weld design...
I hope that the c-clip is not just sitting in the bottom of your pumpkin. Although that is one of the benefits of rear disc brakes... keeping the axle from totally coming out if you lose a c-clip.
Just a thought based off my experience... Had a whirring noise that developed right after I bought the car (~24k miles). Changed sound around right-hand corners. Long story short, ended up being the carrier bearings making the noise. They were pitted pretty bad and they didn't have much...
Personally I was a little disappointed with the fit of the Borla muffs. Took a lot of "fine" tuning with channel locks and vice grips on the hangers.
I didn't have much drone with the old [manifolds - stock H - ATAK] setup.... Barely anything at 2000 rpm. More noise came from my worn out...
Believe I had the same issue you're describing with my Borla ATAK on my 2010. Ended up trimming hangers w/ sawzall and adjusting the bends to center the tips in the bumper. That was when I had manifolds and stock H, but the fit is the same with Kooks long tubes and X.