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Stock plugs and stock gap and you’re set! I believe .044 is the correct gap. A couple of other things you may wish to consider would be a coolant change and a Trans fluid change. The coolant change is to refresh the corrosion inhibitors, go with OEM coolant 50/50 mix with deionized water...

Just a couple of quick suggestions. Use a magnet to see if they are ferrous or non-ferrous particles. Pull your oil filter, cut it open and inspect the media for particles too.

Can you post pictures of the spatter on the ground electrode and is the spatter on all of them? I’d suggest stock replacements. Check the gap, and I always put a “very small” amount of never-seize on the plug threads.

Before you take it apart you need to check the transmission synchronizers, if they’re bad you’ll need to go inside the transmission. You need to replace the flywheel, clutch assembly, slave cylinder, slave cylinder tube, pilot bearing, clutch and flywheel bolts. (You can’t reuse the old...

In my opinion if you just butt weld the hanger back together it will most likely just break again. I’d find a piece of stainless rod about 6” long and about the same diameter as the existing hanger. Have the shop bend the rod into a hook shape to fit along side the exiting hanger, overlapping...

Sadly not all dealers are aware of the clutch fixes. Ask your dealer to refer to Ford TSB 10-3-8, you can google it and locate it too. Everything you need including the part numbers are in this TSB. There is even a PCM recalibration to go with it. When I recommended this upgrade to my friend...

The 10-12 and the 13-14 are different clutches. The 10-12 has a very soft pedal. If you go with a 13-14 you will have a stiffer pedal because there was an assist spring in the pedal box that you don’t have. The original 07-09 clutches had a firm pedal and aggressive engagement. I...

Based on your original post I’d say that 10-12 clutch is your best option. The 13/14 clutch is also a good option but you may end up with a heavier pedal because the 13/14 had a spring assist in the pedal box. If you plan on staying stock or even a pulley and tune, you can’t go wrong with...

If you have any concerns for NVH then the Roush UCA would be my choice. I’m pretty sure the part number is 421120. Unfortunately it’s currently not available, it might be worth a call to Roush to find out why. I installed one on my 2011 GT500 that is mildly modified, around 550 rwhp. Before...

The first thing I'd be doing is getting a borescope (inspection camera) and having a look in your plug holes.

If you’re looking to reduce temps on a road course I’d be looking at the largest non-fan heat exchanger that I could find. The 13-14 GT500 heat exchanger is pretty large. I’d also add the 13-14 radiator fan with the doors/flaps in it that open up at speed to increase airflow through the...

If you only race (I’m assuming drag race) a couple of times a year, have you considered a front mounted ice tank? I don’t think that pump will do anything for you because your intercooler system would be too restricted to allow the pump to flow at its rating. I’ve never heard of anyone...

I’ve always had good results with Stabil. Original red Stabil is up to 24 months and Stabil 360 is 12 months (it’s on their website). I also avoid fuel with ethanol in anything that I store for any period of time. https://www.goldeagle.com/brands/sta-bil/

I assume you already have the car? If not, I have a friend with a professionally built 2005, with the best of everything. He has about 120,000 Canadian into it and would probably let it go for half that. His initial goal was 1000hp, unknown what it’s putting to the ground because it spun the...

Just my opinion, I’d go to the dealer and get the factory anti-freeze. I’d also get deionized water to mix with it. If you system looks clean which it should, then I’d suggest draining it, removing and rinsing the degas bottle (re-install) and then refill with a 50/50 mix. You can’t get all...

Aside from the Chinese knock-off aspect of this, here’s the application of the part number provided by the seller: “Mustang. Right. Base, gt, with boss 302. With performance brakes. Base, gt, with performance pkg.” These calipers are also available from online Ford Dealers for around...

I’ll second this suggestion.

So what your saying is that it had a roll cage that has been removed, if I’m understanding correctly. Does it still have the Recaro seats. You don’t really want a roll cage in a street car anyway.

Just a little info on these cars. You really won’t see much gain from a CAI unless you do a Supercharger upgrade. The 2012 has the same CAI as the 13/14 which is 662hp. Pulley and tune are best bang for the buck. I would suggest a resonator delete on the intake tube, it looks cleaner and...

I own a 2011, very little change between the 11 and 12. I’d suggest getting PP (Performance Package) car if there is one available. The suspension is a bit lower and stiffer and they have 3.73 gears. They also have nicer wheels that are 19/20 stagger. The 11/12 have the aluminum block and...

I believe the E-force uses 2300 TVS rotor pack and they run relatively cool compared to some other superchargers. This is a long shot but did you double check to make sure one of the heater hoses wasn’t accidentally connected to the intercooler. Warm the engine up for a few minutes, if the...

Just an opinion and hopefully no one is offended. The 11/12 cars with the SVT Performance Package are the best bang for your buck in my opinion. The PP gives you 3.73 gears, staggered 19/20 rims (the nicest stock rim that came on these cars in my opinion), a slightly lowered and stiffer...

I wouldn’t recommend buying either car making 7xx at the rear wheels unless he knows the history of the car. There are more than a few people out there who have bought something previously modded and regretted it. You seem to be biased towards the S550, I like them all.

I was referring to a stock GT500 versus a stock Coyote, this was in reference to some of the prior discussion about a Coyote possibly being faster than a GT500. The point I was making was that the GT500 motor comes from the factory built for boost, hence my comment that it can make a reliable...

I agree. Another option would to contact the manufacturer and see if they will send you another adapter and hopefully it clocks properly. That final option - assuming that the adapter is bottomed out on the block you could take equivalent of 1/2 a thread pitch off the face of the adapter...