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P0133, if Google is right, is slow response from O2 sensor right? My gut reaction would be to start at the bolts on the head for the exhaust manifold/headers, then I’d move to the collectors and make sure those are tight, then I’d inspect the sensors themselves to make sure they’re tightened...

Interesting… I didn’t know those Falcons had the same 5.4 in them, I’ll be curious to see what info you find!

I’d just echo and simplify previous comments.. - Less mods is typically better in general unless it’s someone older who has had the time/money to do them correctly and maintain them. - Total miles is less important than the kind of driving it’s had in those miles. - Check for water intrusion...

I haven’t done the work myself but if I was going to I’d be using ramps if possible but if that’s not an option I’d use 4 stands and take the wheels off, slide the wheels under the areas you won’t be working for extra protection.

Define ‘adequate’.. for most people they certainly are but if you’re wanting to have a noticeable change to the feel of the car they’re a great upgrade.

Any new shock/strut should be a noticeable improvement over worn factory ones but any aftermarket option will also be an improvement overall. I’d do a set of sway bars, adjustable if you want to tinker, static if you don’t. I’ve always liked Eibachs stuff but I recently put on the Whiteline...

Got it inspected, gave it a good “Italian tuneup” and then proceeded to whack a squirrel at 80mph so now I need to get creative with a bumper repair..

Personal experience, I had a canned SCT tune with a ‘no-tune’ intake and some mufflers and it was fine. A custom tune over that just wasn’t worth the investment. Once I went to adding cams, headers etc. I got a custom tune at a local shop when the parts were installed. I’ve explored the remote...

Haven’t run a front plate on my car in Texas for over 10 years. My mum got stopped one time, it was like a $10 “fix it” ticket. Throw the plate in the back floorboard and say the mount is “on order”.

Neat, not my style but I appreciate the sheer amount of work. I do have one complaint though.. you spent all that time and money and left the damn door handles black?

Read up on the Fuel Shark scam, I’d wager without seeing it that this is the same concept.

I get that! In our old neighborhood I would make sure all my truck toolboxes were locked, where we’re at now I don’t hesitate leaving the front door unlocked when I run to the store!

As above, the light comes on when there’s something heavy enough in the seat for it to realize but not so heavy as to require the air bag.

I think this exact repair is on my shortlist right now.. thanks for the photos, shows me a bit what I’m in for.

Is it not the Boss 302 one? Like off a Laguna Seca?

When I first starting tinkering on my ‘08 I used a ‘no-tune’ intake and the canned SCT tune for my car, it wasn’t perfect by any means but definitely woke it up a little bit. If you’re just wanting a little something extra I’d investigate that route.

What exhaust setup is on the car currently? I know mine has, under load, I guess you could say a similar sound but I’m confident it’s to do with the catless X pipe setup, I’ve never quite been happy with the sound since I ditched the H pipe.

“Where there is a will there is a way.” No shit… We had an enclosed trailer stolen from in front of our company warehouse, they took 30 minutes cutting off the lock and hitching it up and driving off with it. Whole thing was caught on the security camera but the resolution was poor enough they...

If you’re really just shooting to repair it.. Get on RockAuto, look up a 2009 GT500, order the strut mounts and any OEM equivalent strut you like. Go rent the spring compressor from any auto parts store. Pull the complete assemblies out, yank them apart, move the springs over to the new...

Curious too.. changing springs/struts to repair strut mounts is an interesting approach.

Get the GT500 top mounts, flip them 180 degrees rotation from factory to account for the lowering. Adjustable panhard, get one that’s adjustable in the center when mounted. I did my springs without a compressor but since you have new ones going in I wouldn’t even bother breaking the old ones...

Certainly not alone, I had a not-so-great experience also. I ended up getting my car tuned locally instead.

If you have the liberty of time you could pull the old ones first and make a decision then. If you don’t have that option just buy new everything to cover your bases.

Really? Interesting. I guess I just assumed they weren’t TTY bolts for something like that.

Can you not just reuse the hardware when you pull the old ones?