Search results for query: *

Might be the connector for the Shaker 1000 amps and subs that would mount on the passenger side. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

You can use CLR... Or the Motorcraft Flush... But I'd use the flush in the whole system to remove deposits from the coolant passages and from around the cylinders...

Do you have something on the passenger side seat that weighs a few pounds? Or do you have aftermarket seats? I think there's a pressure sensor in the seat (OCS sensor - Occupant Classification Sensor) and it will disable the airbag for small humans that are sitting there... Like if a kid that...

The only thing I'll add about just using the TDC method without air is that during the re-assembly process the valve needs to be all the way up to get the keepers in place. If they are dropped down even a little bit (resting on the piston at TDC) you'll have a hell of a time getting those...

Real... https://www.motortrend.com/features/1605-the-saga-of-1965-mustang-wagon/ The early Mustang was largely based off the Ford Falcon anyway, and the Mustang wagon looks a lot like the Ford Falcon "wagon" (rear windows) or "Sedan Delivery" (no windows). Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

+1.... Search on YouTube for FordTechMakuloco and then within his page search for something like Ford 3V timing chain replacement, or Ford 3V cam replacement... Etc. All I can tell you from personal experience is that changing out the valve springs is easiest with the heads off (unless you have...

Two things... You should use the cast iron "Cobra" (2003-2004) tensioners, and you should look at getting the "Cobra Engineering (brand)" billet guide dowel pins. If you do valve springs... I recommend PAC 1233. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

You'll need one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html to support the engine while you drop the K-member... But it's pretty straight forward otherwise. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

I also like to use this O-ring lube... Makes assembly very smooth, helps with sealing, and makes me feel better that the O-ring isn't twisting / rolling when pushing the connections together...

For your pulley / clutch reassembly I think the airgap is supposed to be .015 (from memory) ... You may have to buy the Motorcraft spacer kit with the little washers that are different thicknesses. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

I would replace the compressor assembly and not mess with piecing it together. It if you want to just try replacing the pulley... Just buy the new Motorcraft pulley with the bearing pre-installed. They also sell the pulley and clutch plate combo. Messing around with removing the bearing is a...

In the OP's 2006 Mustang... #3 in the diagram is where the orifice tube is located. You have to disconnect the coupling, item #2. Motorcraft Part # YG343 Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Yes you can replace the compressor yourself... The only hard part is discharging the system. If you don't have the machine to discharge it and collect the old refrigerant, then it will spray stuff everywhere and I think it's some kind of environmental violation to release that refrigerant to...

Can't really tell from a picture. You'll probably have to take it to a shop to have a vacuum put on the system to see if it holds (no bad seals) . Once the system is discharged they can also pull out the orifice tube to see if it is all clogged with metal shavings from your compressor. Sent...

Sounds like a clutch throw out bearing if the noise goes away when you push in the clutch. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Not sure what you mean by swapping the housing? If you have a normal 8.8 solid axle there is no "housing" that comes out at one differential unit. If you have a Cobra or something else with an IRS rear end with a differential center section that drops out then you could probably buy a used...

Enkei PF01 is one of the lightest wheels you'll find. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Depends on how "race car" you want it to look inside. If you want it to still be a street car... - Get an Odyssey battery. - Take out the spare tire. If your going full race car... - Take out all the carpet - Remove rear seats - Replace glass with Lexan - Take out a/c system - Remove center...

You need to work with a tuner, and do some data logs. The short term and long term fuel trim data will tell the tuner a lot about what is going on. A wide band air fuel set up will really aid in the final tuning. Like others have said there is no way to account for what parts are in the car...

You don't want the hassle and expense of replacing the ECU. I would contact a reputable tuner to help you get the tune sorted out. I've used JDM Engineering in Freehold, NJ and can highly recommend them. https://www.teamjdm.com/custom-tuning-2/ Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

FYI... Here"s a good video on how to remove the cam followers (and lash adjusters) And here's the tool that makes it real easy...

If money is tight... you could try changing the oil for some 10W40 to see if that helps. But run some BG 109 through it first to do an oil "flush"...

Does your tachometer not work? It shows 0 RPM at the same time as the video has the sound of a running engine. Otherwise, it does kind of sound like valve train noise. The lash adjusters (and the entire VVT system, and the timing chain tensioners) work off of oil pressure, so a lack of oil...

Where is the noise coming from? Is it under the arm rest where the 2-piece driveshaft carrier bearing is located? Or is it coming from the back of the car where the axle is located? My first thought is... Does the car have different rear end gears? Sometimes aftermarket gears "whine" a...

Could also be a Ball joint? Camber plate? Tie rod end? A-arm bushing? Strut going out?... Etc... There's a lot of things that can "clunk" up there. Your going to have to wiggle and pry on stuff until you find it...watch this: Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk