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Car starting with stock TB is a negative. Engine turns over, runs for a second, then acts like I switched the key off lmao

Coolant levels have stayed the same for the entirety of me owning the car Edit: Forgot to add that this was in like 30º degree weather.

So I tested the TPS voltage with the meter turned to manual mode and once the pedal goes about 75% of the way it shows 0 Volts (Which I'm guessing is because it is moving from one sensor to the next). Still clicks and goes down to about .7 volts when releasing the pedal tho. I turned meter back...

I now realize I articulated my words in a not so efficient manner. I very slowly pushed the pedal down to WOT and then sloooowly released it. Kept it at CT and WOT for a few seconds then slowy pushed and released.

I'll retest with manual mode, thanks for suggestion 8) Held the pedal steady the entire time. Like I said towards the end I showed those blips more often and it was slightly past closed throttle. You think a dip close to WOT would cause idling problems??

Just to clarify that is right behind the passenger's side O2 sensor and converter. In forscan and in the Revx tuner there is no such thing as TPS voltage. Only thing it'll show is the TP1 and TP2 voltage. Had to get creative with my the multimeter. Now from what I recorded it seems right around...

So with this post I will either be heralded as the guy who eats glue or as the guy with the continuing issue. Also apologize for the vertical filming as my phone only seems to be able to save in vert mode :facepalm: I started the car so it could get to operating temperature before I did any...

Just got home from work, will be trying this out. Will do that as well. One thing I should mention is when I drive I have the terrible habit of pushing on the gas for a bit then letting go. I can't help it, I love listening to the exhaust when I let off the gas y'know :/ *BUT* when I am...

Alright so not be an insufferable douche, but um could one of you summarize exactly what you two are saying I should do? Kind of lost in all the multiple posts and botched quotes lol I understood: Turn on car, disconnect positive battery cable, test AC voltage from alternator. Is that correct...

KAM has been reset and battery unplugged for more than 30 minutes multiple times with each time having the car go through the relearn process. No luck. I do not know anything about the FRP needing to be steady or not but in very first video a page back the FRP did vary from I believe it was...

First video is cold start. letting engine warm up, and some in town driving. I forgot RPMs in the first one so my bad. Second video is in town driving with some highway driving. Also apologize for the messenger pop up. Didn't realize it had popped up til I came to a stop.

I'm going to warn you it is a loooooong datalog. Think I may do another one tonight and let the car idle in my driveway for about 5-10 minutes. Which I should add, I really appreciate the help anyone and everyone posting here. Thanks.

Here are the goods

Which parameters?

So what exactly do I need to datalog and in what units? Just doing a quick conversion FRP was anywhere from 38psi to almost 41psi Fuel rail voltage was from 2.68Volts to 2.83Volts

How much fluctuation are we talking about here? I'm going to guess there has to be some Also after some reading up there is two sensors whose sum needs to equal 5V. Those being TP1 and TP2 in the video. In the video their sum is like 5.1x volts. Is that a problem? No issues with driving other...

Alright, I decided to just go ahead and get the forscan elm stuff and this is what it came up with. Posting uploaded video since it wouldn't let me upload the fls or csv file. Might I also add, I did not know which settings to pick from. And I say that because both TPS readings seem to be...

How would I go about backprobing the tps?

I get what you are saying. Which I will add, I have plans to add a blower later on *but* the rpm wasn't dipping and jumping until recently. I was driving with the whole setup for months without any issues. As far as the alternator goes I have no clue...

I do not know if this makes a difference or not but after recently shutting the car off I tested the AC volts from both the battery and the Alternator and they tested at .0231 and .024 respectively. Sadly enough my tuner (Bama Revx) does not do the things you mentioned from TPS voltage...

I have a DVM. A blue point eedm596c. Switched the thing to read AC volts and placed the positive lead on the positive post on the alternator and the negative lead on the engine block. The thing read at ~.04 volts and dropped down to .028 after a few seconds. Did this three times and each time...

TB is the FRPP twin 62mm Th first wave of mods I did along with the FRPP intake manifold and FRPP Hot Rod cams

Ah, I see. All the video was was the car idling after what I did and the CEL blinking with the key on

Alrighty, I have completed the task at hand. Removed the MSD coils and put the OEM coils back on. Set car's idle to 800. Here are the results Battery is a little over five years old. Tested it at 12.55 volts at rest and 14.65 volts with car on.

I would definitely pull codes from the car if it gave any. Only code I get is P1000 and that is because I disconnected battery to do the spark plugs. One thing I did write up there is when the key is flipped to the on position after a bit the CEL will blink 6 times. Do not know what that means...