Search results for query: *

It isn't a whole lot more work to do the o/r h-pipe vs the cat deletes. I did both on my '12 GT. The exhaust note was SO much better with a 3" o/r h(x)-pipe vs stock h-pipe and cat deletes. The stock h-pipe is mostly 2 1/4" with a tiny crossover inside the H section. It's worth it imo to do...

The other muffler probably has the logo on the opposite side.

What kit did those wheels come from? They're a perfect match! Wish I could get back to building. Just don't have the time.

That $25 is just for the kit too. Then you have paint, glue, tools etc. There are some really lazy people out there these days and most have no desire to be creative and would rather buy their kids a smart phone or ipad to play with so they'll be left alone. Anyway, better not get on my soapbox...

I just unbolt the bracket holding brake lines to bodywork.

Volvo dealer took mine on a trade. No issues at all.

Brake lines would be my worry.

:thumb2:

I have "like new" rears (24-122245). Had them on the car for a week.

Turns out it was the spherical diff bushing. I put the OE mount and control arm in and the noise was still there. After a while it got quiet and now you can barely hear it. It's like it needed to break in. I don't know. It was loud as fuck early on and now it's barely noticeable. Steeda was...

Stock everything. After a year or so on the orange Koni shocks/struts I had two noisy struts and one blown rear shock . It was lowered 1.5". Went back to stock springs/shocks and it's totally quiet now. Thought I had a bad strut mount or sway bar link but it was the strut. When I first...

Same here.

I had a Koni str.t strut do the same thing (groaning noise). Then after a while it got clunky. Even one of my rear Koni str.t's took a dump in about a year. I was on SR springs (1.5" drop). The car bottomed out in the rear a lot which I'm sure led to the failure. FYI, I was using the 11+...

Yesterday drove the car for a while and the noise got so bad I thought the control arm was going to fall off the damn car. Pulled it onto ramps and had a look underneath. Nothing visibly out of place and bolts are tight. Had to call it a night as it was late. This morning had to drive kid to...

It's the upper control arm. No doubt. Talked to Steeda and they think the bolt wasn't torqued. That's the only explanation they had. I know it was but guess I need to check it again.

This morning before driving the car I tried to replicate the sound by pushing down on the rear. Nothing. Not a peep. After driving it the noise is there. It's not enough to really bother me as long as the longevity isn't compromised. I would just feel better about it if there weren't any play at...

I got under there last night and it's definitely coming from that part of the arm. It was very easy to track down where the noise is. What I need to do is contact Steeda and see if they can help.

Torque wrench.

Sorry. I'm using the poly upper control arm with a spherical diff bushing.

Installed Steeda's adjustable upper control arm and mount today along with their spherical diff bushing. Surprisingly, the poly end is WAY more noisy. Not a poly squeaking noise but a metal to metal clunk. It's like the sleeve that the bolt goes through is a larger diameter than the bolt...

I've got the Heartthrob cat to axle with resonators. The "resonator" isn't a whole lot different than Pypes mid mufflers. Internally they're probably identical. Those resonators keep my S-types in check while I run an o/r x-pipe. Still loud as hell but much cleaner with the resonators.

Yeah it's a 6'er. Just showed it so people could see how a muffler fits under there.

There's this...

I'm amazed more people aren't raising hell about this with Ford. There is no remedy for a safety device that can out of no where kill you? It's complete bullshit that we're left hanging in this deal. I don't like it one bit. So are we just SOL? Are there no other avenues to pursue? We just...

Damn that's fast! I had a hydroplane about 25yrs ago lol. Is that Irving? Looks a lot like where I once lived.