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Sweet ass sweet. Thanks!

No one has any insight on this? Not even a "sure, why the hell not?" or "Hell no it has to be a certain kind of button/switch to work for a line lock" come on you egg/gear heads!

Question on this... I have a 2011 Mustang GT. It started out as a base model, but was sort of pieced together, for lack of a better explanation. Long story short, it has a premium steering wheel. the cruise control buttons are all on the left side, and all work properly. One the right...

Sold! Lock it up!

Got an x4. No longer need this. Unmarried - 5 unlocks left. Comes with a usb cable $215 includes shipping to continental US, and Paypal fees. Insurance is additional.

So, when I moved the plugs and plug wires, I hit one of the trip monitors, put it to 0, so I can track the mileage between codes. At mile 20, the check engine light flashed... Im at mile 325. Nothing more. No flashing. No codes. What the hell? This couldn't be something that just...

Upon a superficial search, I don't see any pinched wires. When I get more time, I plan on looking better. It seams to me that I would have this happen more often if this were the case though. Thanks for the input

Ok... I switched the plugs in cyl 4 and cyl 1. Put the CP from cyl. 4 to Cyl 2, and put the CP from cyl. 1 to cyl 4. So, hopefully the code jumps from Cyl 4 to either cyl 1 or cyl 2. Then we will know if it is a plug or a CP. If it stays at cyl 4. Back to the drawing board. Now we...

Ok, so I did the crank sensor relearn, and it is still misfiring. What the car does... Under normal driving conditions, the check engine light starts flashing. A noticeable drop in power is noticed for a moment. After about 30 seconds, the light stops flashing. Then, after 20 or so miles...

Sweet. I was hoping for that answer! So, it is bad for me to drive the car? Just casually? Or should I let it sit until I get the crank sensor relearned?

Nope, we used the oem's and were able to attach them with no extensions. However, we did not know if they were installed on the same side they came off of. I read the numbers on each, and I'm 99% sure they were exactly the same, but I could be wrong. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I hope my new question isn't getting overlooked due to this thread being so old, and it went to a page 2. I want to make it to the track soon, and want to clear up this issue before I go. Anyone out there have any input?

Ok, one more question... My flywheel wasn't removed when the clutch was installed. The tech decided it looked good, and just scuffed it up while it was still on the car. Could the clutch install still be causing my issue? Do I still need to do the relearn? Maybe I should back up some... This...

Well shit, I have a 3. Oh well. going to call the local Ford Garage and see if they know what im talking about.

Hate to drag up an old thread, but I just ran into this issue. Installed a new clutch, and had the transmission worked on. I have had a flashing check engine light twice since, and once the light stayed on and read two codes: Misfire on cyl 4 and 7 Sounds like I need to have the crank...

Thanks for all the input guys. Car is well out of warranty, so no worries there. In any event, Castrol GTX meets the minimum standards, and I always use a Motorcraft Filter. My dad is a firm believer, and it has been passed down to me subconsciously, if its a ford, Motorcraft. If its a GM...

So funny, every thread I read about oil refers me to that thread. Admittedly I didn't read all 11 pages, but the whole first page seamed to be about transmission oil. So I just figured that is where it was going to head the next ten. Anyway thanks 07TGGT, It's pretty much what I gathered...

5.0L oil question Now, before I get roasted, I searched for this topic, but couldn't find a definitive answer. Just changed the oil for the first time in my 2011 GT. I mentioned to a friend, who is also a mustang enthusiast, that I used Castrol gtx non synthetic oil. It's what i have used...

Just had mine out. Replaced all gears and synchros that looked iffy (which was second and third). Replaced the plastic shift fork pads and stop with bronze. (AMP - www.mt82.net) New clutch and throw-out bearing. Stainless steel hydraulic line. Blowfish racing bracket and whiteline...

I have no issues with the looks. I am sure it will look just fine either way. I was questioning it staying on, that's all.

Hmm. I wonder if I should carefully cut a square out of my sticker with an exacto knife. Use the badge as a template.

Well, i never checked out a real Roush, so I was unsure if they used an adhesive one, or if they used the existing holes left by the 5.0 emblem. thanks for the input guys

My 2011 Mustang GT, before I purchased it, was outfitted with Roush body parts and stickers. Of course, the 5.0 emblem was removed, and the "hockey stick" style flat black stickers were applied to the side. I decided to go with it, and finish off the car with everything it needs to look...

Yep. But you have the flood that made you famous. You would know Uniontown then.

Southwestern PA. Near Pittsburgh. If I said the town, no one would know it. Zip is 15401 for anyone wanting to give me a quote shipped.