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zero butt hurt here yes i should have said later model f150 has the 4.6 firing order.....i did back up my statement. now the reason i went on the defensive is because you decided to give advice on researching that you obviously did not follow, you just did quick half ass google search to try...

here is a 17 f150

since you want to talk to me like im a fucking bitch, here you go a stock file from a 2015 f150

the coyote trucks use the same firing order as a 4.6.

if this is a copperhead ecm, flipping the switch in the tuning software will not disable pats. you will need to do that with a ids.

http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/index.html leave this here for yall they 100% work.

i have been lurking on this this thread, i really have a few questions. whats the set up on the build? got pics of the rod bearings? thats 20 miles on those heads? those chambers are dirty. what did you torque the head studs too? was that the correct piston to bore clearance? did you miss...

if you wipe the thrust it wont mess with the block,usually,but will give you vct issues from lack of oil pressure. it could trash the crank and the rod sides. i would do more investigating and checking the lower end specs before spending money on the heads just yet.

These 3v motors have a tendency to wipe out the thrust bearing at high mile......just something to think about also, you might be throwing money at a lost cause.

lol yeah i will snap some.....you just want ds pics?

i will have my buddies car up in the air in next few days. i will get you a measurement.

looks like thump called it.....the log showing bank 1 is kind of flat bank 2 is switching fast thats really all i can see thats odd.

email them to me...i will take a look. [email protected] please make sure you capture the hesitation a couple of times during the drive.

the 3v will only retard the cams. post a log with cam angle actual and commanded, ltft, stft,maf volts, pressure drop across injectors, knock retard, spark. maybe the data will tell something

if you go back to your first post, you basically found the issue, you said there was knock activity when hesitation occurred. so time to figure out why is the knock sensor going off. that is where i would look.

i have had several tensioners sound like rod knock when they went bad. one was a new tensioner on a new build first start, my heart dropped when i heard it.

the cammer block was aluminum and a 3.700 bore, but 5k+.

i have used heat shrink

the wot fuel is exactly that, so it might help up top, but wont do anything for when your fuel trims are active.

that thing needs timing its only at 19* on c16.

Did you do a ecm swap because the 3v have a spanish oak not copperhead....its no big deal to tune the roush cars with sct. it probably wasnt locked if he was able to read it with hpt.... Post a log i would like to look at it if you dont mind.....900 for a dyno tune for that setup, damn, i might...

if it was running before you pulled the plugs then its your plugs now. just because plugs are new dont mean anything. what plugs are you running? your getting knock sensor activity on one bank, I would do some more data logging before just guessing and throwing parts at it...watch stft when...

if your fuel pressure is 28 psi idle and 40 psi wot that is normal, unless you have boost. without boost you wont see 70psi. what does fuel pressure do when the hesitation occurs?

boost falling off or tb closing was my first thought

if its pats related, have your tuner send you a file with pats disabled