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Almost sounds like pump cavitation to me. Did you leave a heater hose unhooked to allow air to escape while you were re-filling the coolant system? Try turning the heater on full blast with the car at full operating temp for 5 - 10 minutes. Also you can try and vacuum bleed the air out using...

The 13-14 GT500 fuel injectors should have a part # prefix of "DR3V" on the body.

No jack screws on the 4.6 3V or the Coyote 5L.

I used a GT500 trans harness and had the cal changed to enable the lockout solenoid. Works like factory.

If you do want a McLeod RXT I have the complete set up to go in the '11-up cars with the XL trans that is in perfect shape with zero track time I will let go cheap. It was too aggressive for my taste so I put a '13 GT500 clutch in my car.

I was going to say, check your muffler bolts!! :thud: Glad you found it...I hate weird noises that you can never figure out...every car I've owned has had at least one...........

Are you talking about the rotational rubbing sound? Not sure about the source (almost sounds like a dry bearing, but your car is too new). Go find yourself one of those cheap automotive stethoscopes and place the probe on the various sub-components of the front-end drive (alternator...

Sounds just like my '11 GT. High RPM shifts also seem like I am not getting complete disengagment - trans shifts very rough. I haven't taken my car to the dealer yet because I really don't feel like having a tech drive the hell out of it to try and replicate the problem, plus next week I'm...

It all really depends on how much of a factor reliability is to you. All our high HP applications running 8 and 9 second quarter mile times use the 9.5:1 engine. Can you make 1000 whp using an 11:1 engine, sure. I personally wouldn't do it - not going to debate why. We've built a few...

I would lower the C/R personally. Boss rod and main bearings are all tri-metal. Base Coyote bearings are aluminum. The only difference between the two cranks is the balance. They both start out as the same forging.

The weak spot in the factory block is around the water jacket ports at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. At the 1000 HP level you are at the point where it could become compromised. Be aware.... The Boss head change kit is nice but no one can really tell you what the ultimate HP limit of those...

You might also consider using the Boss rod and main bearings - they are tri-metal and actually perform very well at high HP levels. If you follow the factory grading spec then you also end up with a nice quiet engine. Not knocking the Clevites - we use lots of them, but not on Coyote engines.

It's on 700+ RWHP engines.

Don't waste your money on the ARP studs. The current 5.0L bottom end is solid even with the stock bolts. On the old pushrod 5.0L the caps would walk around but we don't see it happening on the Coyote motors. I've disassembled and inspected several after repeated dyno pulls, calibration work...

Make sure you apply a forward axial load to the crankshaft before you tighten #5 cap up. Otherwise you risk wiping out that upper thrust bearing.

The reason the original Ford Racing TVS supercharger inlet was kept at the factory size was to allow guys to bolt their factory adaptor/throttle body to the TVS housing. This allowed the FR supercharger to be a bolt-on upgrade (with revised cal.). When the 2013 Shelby came along there was an...

Your information regarding the source of the TVS supercharger isn't totally accurate. Ford had absolutely NOTHING to do with that TVS supercharger, and the only thing Eaton supplied is the TVS rotating group. Roush designed the supercharger and their JV partner in Livonia MI assembled and...

We prime the 3v engines using the oil pressure sensor hole. You need an external source (hydraulic pump) to supply the oil to the engine.

They should still be in time, but you need to rotate them to get your primary cam gears in the right position in order to time them back to the crank. I have tried to leave the cams together with the cap and tensioner on the first engine I built but found that it was cumbersome and it left me...

There are coloured links on the back of the secondary chains and notches on the back of the gears. Index the cams so the notches point away from each other (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock). This is the base setting. You can keep the cams together but it's a bit cumbersome to re-install the whole...

EDIT: double post!

The blue color you are referring to is caused by the hardening process -back in the 90's they used to harden the entire crank. Now they just harden the journals then micro-polish them, so you don't see the discoloration.

Rod length and journal diameters are carryover from the 4.6L.