Discussion in 'Drift Racing Tech Discussion' started by OutlawEvans, Jan 22, 2017.
Idk if I’ve asked yet, but does anyone have recommendations what rear end to get and what company?
It would be nice to get some pointers on drifting techniques for someone starting out. Once I have funds for extra sets of tires I may sign up for some amateur events. I have tried sliding in parking lots but it seems to take some speed (and experience) to carry a drift through. I haven't done anything more than that for fear of wrecking the car.
I wasn't aware of a return spring in these cars. I thought the clutch was hydraulic assist.
I'm not sure if you're continuing this build now, but one thing you can do is weld the stock axle tubes to the pumpkin and then install an axle brace for extra insurance.
That 8.8 is way stronger than your needs, you just need to put it back together with 4.56 gears and set your rear suspension to let the rear end unload easier.
The stock gears are fucking you, they add way too much load and take away the "hit" you need to side step the clutch for breaking traction.
Yeah I agree on steeper gearing and maybe a PD blower or turbo on low boost to give you the torque you need in 3rd gear. That would be a cheapest route. With these you may not even need to clutch kick.
He was running 4.10 gear iirc. 4.56 gears would help for sure since it is a dedicated track car. Otherwise they'd be too low for daily use. I'm sure you know already, I'm just mentioning it.
Thanks guys for all the information and posts. This forum hands down has had the most amount of helpful people from any forum I’ve used.
Currently the mustang has been sitting collecting dust since the event, I’ve haven’t had a chance to take the rear end out. I’m hoping to get my hands on it by next week. My plan is to take it out and take it to a shop near me that repairs/build off road/drag racing rear ends to weigh my options. I’m hoping it’s salvageable and I can up my hearing then throw those axle tube braces on.
With the clutch pedal being hydraulic assist ,46 addict what part or mechanism should I look at to fix the clutch pedal?
Also what’s a PD blower?
By PD blower I meant positive displacement blower. So roots and twin screw superchargers. They'll give you the low end torque you need in higher gears as the boost will come in almost immediately. However a correctly sized turbo will have the same effect so it really depends on what you're willing to deal with.
As for the clutch pedal, what do you mean when you say the clutch flings? Not enough resistance?
Yeah when I release the clutch it flops around. The first half of the travel on release it has resistance and comes back with my foot, the second half it loses pressure. It’s not a big deal but it’s for sure annoying
Notha questionnn, what forced induction would people recommend? Budget of course is priority number one sadly. I was thinking a centrifugal
My next video is up. It goes over getting the car track ready and how the first event went. By tomorrow I'll hopefully have the rear end out to assess it
Currently I'm looking at the on3 turbo kit to throw on by the end of the year, anyone have experience with this? The 2k price looks pretty good
Got some time wrenching on the stang. Got 80% of the way done for getting the rear end out. Taking the driveshaft bolts out that goes to the pinion was a biaaa&$&&$tch. I’m planning on taking to a shop called Dan’s driveline soon and have them weld the axle tubes fully to the pumpkin. I’m praying the internals are in great shape so they don’t have to be replaced either.
With the rear end out I’ll proceed to also drop the fuel tank to take a look as well.
Anybody know how to fix or replace the baffles? Everyone has told me to “fix the tanks baffles”? Does the tank split open or something?
Also I’m praaaaying that all the repairs are cheap because I would love to throw a one piece driveshaft on and a catless x pipe since I have a great chance to right now. I only have about 1k to spend on getting the car setup before the first limited series event in the end of April
Just finished removing the rear end. Wasn’t too bad, only wish I had an air powered or electric impact that was the L shaped one. Would have made it a lot easier. When I get a chance next week I’m going to take the rear end down to get it re welded, I believe the interanals are fine too.
Potentially dumb question, but is it okay to run with only headers and an X pipe? I’m thinking of throwing the pypes mid pipe on and keeping the rest of the tubing off. I’m trying to make this thing sound like it can hold a candle to all the Loud ass ls cars lol
If will terminate just behind the driver, I would at least try to get turn downs on it to direct the exhaust gasses away from the cabin and help direct the sound out and away.
Yeah I just started it and hated it haha. I’m going to keep the piping on as it directs it down too
In regards to loud. I have Long tube headers, Off Road H pipe, and the Pypes Pipe Bomb exhaust on my car. Aside from open headers, you can't get any louder and it sounds AMAZING. It is soo controlled. So clean, but when in WOT it's louder than you could ever expect a full exhaust to be. It is completely a straight through design. I could roll a golf ball out the back from my headers to the tip of my exhaust if I don't consider the over axel part stopping the roll. lol The youtube videos don't do it justice. Most of the videos online don't have equipment to properly capture and recreate the sheer loud it has when under WOT. The responses I get from people that love loud clean exhausts is amazing. My own brother was completely shocked at how loud it is under WOT and he is the one that suggested the Pypes cat back portion. lol
However, for the street people, me, if you drive normal it is as docile as any other exhaust. I could give you a video of it, but like I said, I would not be able to completely capture it. If you are ever near north alabama give me a ring. haha.
That sounds bad ass af. I’m planning on doing long tube pypes and x pipe in the future with a straight pipe from there. I can imagine that it would be a hell of a lot better.
If I’m ever in Alabama I’ll hit you up but so far I can’t afford anything other than this damn car lmao
I just noticed I went past your questions while looking through my stuff lol, my bad.
I’m not too sure about warranty or mileage. But the treadwear is pretty high so they shouldn’t wear downbad.
I do have 4.10s and second is somewhat useable on the shorter stuff but third definitely needs full throttle commitment.
My next step is long tubes, x pipe, and 1 piece to max my bolt on powerness. It definetly help for sure. I also loosened up the rear by putting a softer front sway bar on and a stiffer one on the rear. Worse comes to worse I’ll just pump up tire pressure like no tomorrow.
Dropped off rear end today to be repaired. Should be able to drop the fuel tank sometime next week to check everything out. Also traded a coworker for a Sparco seat for one of my momos. It fits me Perfectly! And is blue which is my favorite color haha. Mismatched seats ftw
Rear end is back and the axle tubes are fully welded. super happy with the work. I don't think I can afford to grab an axle tube brace yet but I think it should be fine how it is for now. Once I plan on adding more power I'll throw one on first
I doubt you need to brace it with welded tubes, post some pics so we can see how she looks.
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